www.iFourWinns.com

Should I attempt this service myself or pay a pro?? First boat and I have not
done any maintenance myself yet. I did just buy an oil extractor this week so
I can start changing my own oil. I have a '98 Horizon HQ 190 w/ volvo 3.0 and
cobra outdrive. New engine was installed mid summer so it has about 25 hrs.
Thanks!!

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1998 Horizon 170 QX / Volvo 3.0 SX drive

I think it all depends on how mechanically inclined you are, and how much you care to futz with it. I get a sense of acheivement with doing some projects, and enjoy learning more about my boat, its mechanics, and feel more confident on the water and trailering if I have done some things myself. On the other hand, I realize my inadequacies, and i dont have tons of extra free time. I leave most of the real work of winterizing to my boat shop, and consider things like washing, removing carpet (and cleaning), interior care (303, etc.), removing everything such as life jackets, etc from the boat, clearing out and cleaning up the ski locker, removing the batts and trickle charging, and the like to be my contribution to the winterization process. This year I also will remove the bimini material to launder and waterproof/protect. I also am still working on other projects like the trailer brake cables and replacing faulty wiring to the amplifier. Additionally I will be replacing my last old Carlisle (now is the spare) with a new Maaxis or new Carlisle over the winter months.

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2005 Horizon 250

I've done it myself for years, but I've been doing my own automotive maintenance for about, oh, 40 years or so...
First start with a good manual, the engine manuals tell you where the drains are, etc. The main thing is to do the yearly maintenance then (oil n filter change, drive oil change), check other fluid levels like tilt n trim, power steering) and to get all the water out of the engine and manifolds. That is the single most important thing. Wherever there is a drain plug, you should probe the opening to make sure it drains. Antifreeze is much discussed, it is not needed for freeze protection, if you drain properly, but some like to add it for additional corrosion protection. The only way to use it in my opinion is to fill the engine and manifolds after draining, do NOT use the suck up the drive method on raw water (open system) engines. If the thermostat does not open the engine may still have water in it an can crack.
summary:
put stabil in gas tank
run engine on water muffs up to temp
change oil and filter
run again to check for leaks
remove flame arrestor and fog engine
DRAIN engine, manifolds, raw water intake line, impeller housing
then antifreeze can be added by backfilling through the hoses
change drive oil and check for water (milky oil)
you can change the fuel filter in the spring or now
I like to put OMC gasket sealer on the threads of the drain plugs, it keeps them from rusting in place
I also remove the drive each year and check the bellows, gimble bearing and ujoints. These need regular checks, neglecting this will cost you.....
I also spray Corrosion X on the engine, manifolds, etc

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Good stuff, thanks.
I'm leaning toward letting a mechanic do it this year and I will tackle it next.
I'm running out of time to do research and don't want to take a chance of
messing up a brand new motor with an overlooked step. Thanks for your
time to reply, I will keep this for ref. next year.

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1998 Horizon 170 QX / Volvo 3.0 SX drive

Watch him do it, if you can! I would pick up a manual for that year & size engine.

I plan on taking notes so I have a list to follow next year.

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1998 Horizon 170 QX / Volvo 3.0 SX drive