www.iFourWinns.com

I bought Amsoil's 30W synthetic heavy duty oil for my 1999 5.7L duo-prop. Was wondering what everybody else uses?

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1997 Four Winns Vista 278
T - 4.3l EFI
Kohler 4esz Genset
379 hours as of 8/8/21

Mobile 1 diehard fan here. I have seen first hand how this oil performs and will never use anything else. Amzoil, Redline, Royal Purple ete, etc are fantastic oils. I always have wondered who makes the Volvo Synthetic oil? Just as long as it is 30w and not a multi grade oil...it will be fine. Even a excellent multi grade oil will work as well.

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2001 FW Horizon 190 w/ 5.0GL PEFS

I have always used Penzoil 30 wt in all of my boats. I change it every 50 hours.

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Inboard, outboard, onboard never bored
KUT 'N LOOSE
'99 258 VISTA

Nothing but the VP 30w synth for me. I use nothing but Mobil 1 in every other motorized car, tool, and toy I own, but didn't want a multi-weight in the boat. I too would like to know who makes VP's oil; I'm a little surprised that whoever it is doesn't market their own line of 30w synthetic. Not enough demand, I suppose.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

sounds like a good question for bobistheoilguy. (Who makes VP oil)

Since the oil gets changed every fall, after a whopping 20-30 hours, I am not too stressed about a 'marine' oil like Mercruiser pushes.

At this point I use V-P 30 weight synthetic, but could change to another 30 weight.

Where are you finding 30 weight? (I'm not ready to drop the buck on AMSOIL)

Thanks

Very interesting. Some people using dino, some using Mobil 1. I wonder if BITOG (wow I thought I was the only one who went to BITOG, LOL) would be able to do an oil analysis and find out....

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1997 Four Winns Vista 278
T - 4.3l EFI
Kohler 4esz Genset
379 hours as of 8/8/21

amsoil 30wt synthetic, i feel that if volvo prefers syntheic 30 wt there must be a reason, also there is nothing too good for my boat.

I will say that the difference in start up, general engine noise, and vibration is noticeable when I switched from dino 30W to Amsoil 30W. I thought I had lost a portion of my hearing...LOL. In reality, the engine just seems to run "smoother" now.

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1997 Four Winns Vista 278
T - 4.3l EFI
Kohler 4esz Genset
379 hours as of 8/8/21

When I read the Volvo Penta owners manual it shows 20W50 or 15W50 SAE rated SG as the oil for my 5.0 Gi. I use 20W50 Mobil 1 (not cheap, but not out of sight either), and it seems to work well.

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"No Losses"

[quote="230 Mike"]...didn't want a multi-weight in the boat...[quote]

Mike, any particular reason for the aversion to a multi-weight synth?

First of all, these oil discussions, whether they pertain to boats, cars, or anything else, are always more speculation and "this way makes me feel better so it must be better" than anything to do with established fact. So, each person must decide which version of the speculation they subscribe to.

Me, I subscribe to the following:

1. My manual says to use 30w synthetic. I'd be using synthetic in any case, and since the VP oil isn't much more $$ than M1 if you know where to buy it, what possible reason could I have to not use it? I believe as strongly in the quality of VP oil as I do in M1.

2. Marine engine oil *is* subject to far more damaging loads than almost any auto engine. I don't know about anyone else, but if I ran my truck at 4,500-5,000 RPM's for more than a *very* short period, it'd be toast (it's M1 5W30 notwithstanding). Not only do we do this to our boat engines with regularity, we follow that with sitting in storage for weeks or longer at a time - and then run it at 5 grand again. I subscribe to the idea that the viscosity packages used in mult-weights may very well have a problem holding up in these conditions. And since I'm not boating in cold weather, why would I even *want* a multi?

3. I also subscribe to the idea that marine oil is better at holding off the effects of moisture in the oil. When your auto engine is running at normal temperature, the coolant is flowing through the engine at a similar temp - typically around 180F. When the "coolant" flows through some parts of your boat engine at some times, it's what - 70-80F or less? Applying this colder water to a hot iron surface, in my mind, *has* to result in the chance of some amount of moisture forming internally.

It's the *combination* of these reasons that cause me to stick to the VP oil, even though I'm the world's biggest believer in M1 for everything else.

And now you know why I try to just stay out of oil discussions Again, this is what *I* subscribe to, and what others subscribe to may be every bit (if not more) valid (as far as *any* of us know).

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I stay out of the oil and filter debate for one major reason...have you ever seen anyone have a blown or damaged engine and the culprit is the oil brand they used or the filter brand? Well, if that was a purolator filter and not the lowsy FRAM your endine wouldn't have failed...or Gee it you only used Pennzoil over Castro, you would have this busted engine!

Com'on...we change our oil in the boats with such little use on it, the oil can't be "worn out" Damn, after 100 hrs, the M1 I pull out of my two engines almost looks goog enough to put in the car for some use!

The only really true wayt to know is an oil analysis.

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Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

I sort of agree there, jvalich - except that, while we change our boats' oil much more frequently, I do believe the oil in the boat is subjected to far more heat stress than in an auto engine. And since the boat engine is only run in conditions where it isn't subjected to the normal dirt and dust of road driving, I'm not sure you can draw many conclusions from the way it looks when it comes out (as you also indicated re: the oil analysis).

But you're absolutely right, I doubt anyone has ever heard of any properly-maintained engine failing - on a boat or a car - where the failure had anything to do with the oil.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Thanks for the perspective. As for me, I'm an M1 believer also, & I'm still bummed that my favorite 15/50 red cap has been repackaged as EP - at a higher $.

My cars & bikes run Pure One filters & M1. I would have no problem using those in the boat either, but I don't run the boat enough during the season to worry about it. Whatever the dealer uses at winterization time is OK with me.

You've got admit, though, this discussion is a whole lot tamer than BITOG