www.iFourWinns.com

I am picking up my 95 190 Horizon today and I wanted to do some basic tune up stuff to it before it hits the water, 5.0FI engine. I know it is going to be hard to find parts for the fuel injection system so I am hoping for no issues in that department. Where can I get a set of plug wires for this engine, I called my boat mechanic and he didnt find listing for them. So I did some searching online in the forums and it turns out this engine is going to be extremely hard to find parts for. Any help woud be great, just point me in the right direction please.

For wires and plugs go to Autozone. Marine does not make custom fit wires and the plugs are the same. The boots they use on the wires suck at best. Cars get more water on them then a boat motor. I found some great MSD wires for 49 bucks. Yes I need to custom fit them, but I am well practiced at it.
Choose what you may, but I run Autolite APP's because they last longer than regular copper core plugs. Unless you have very high compression or a two stroke you will not get much of anything performance wise out of the higher dollar ones except time and consistancy.
Don't forget a good cap and rotor on your tune up.

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1992 Baja 38 Special Twin 502 Mags

03 Stingray 3.0
88 261 Liberator 460 King Cobras
95 Bayliner 1850 3.0
77 Fiber Form 20ft 350/385hp
70 Wescraft 1800 SS 455 Jet

Lead, Follow, or get the Hell out of the Way!

Time to find a new mechanic. That's a Ford 5.0 ripped out of a mustang and put in a boat. A blind man could find parts, that's the most common motor ford has ever made and all OMC did was slap a few marine parts on it so it to make it coast guard legal.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

You can get the individual wires or a kit from a BPR dealer. Mallory Marine makes the wires also, 9-28026 is their part number.

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Brian Borchik
The Winds of Cold Springs Harbor Marina
Baldwinsville, NY

Thanks, I wasnt sure it the lengts were going to be diff to get around the manifolds. I will look for the numbers you suggested. I wanted to stay with marine parts also.

I thought it might be the same as a mustang, had one a few years ago that looked the same as the engine in this boat.

There is no such thing as "marine" plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Usually marine wires are crappier then auto, and much more expensive. You'll pay $100+ for 7mm marine wires when you can get a good set of 8mm ones from Jegs for $50. Stick with NGK Iridium plugs, they'll be the last plugs you ever install. Mallory Marine crap is 100% ripoff. Not only is Mallory the worst name in the automotive world, but they slap Marine on the box, make everything blue, and charge twice as much.

Like I said, it's virtually the same engine with slight modifications for USCG/boat usage. The main goodies (plugs/wires/fuel injection/heads/intake/block/etc) are straight up car parts and if you're like me.. always wanting more power.. since you owned a mustang you know what to do

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

There absolutely are difference with some of those things Ric, for example, spark plugs. Spark plugs with an M designation, such as an AC Delco MR43T have corrosion resitant stainless casings to prevent them from rusting into the head.

As far as Mallory I have used their stuff for years and rarely had any issues, they are far less expensive than OEM also. The issues I have are no different than ones I have had with OEM stuff too.

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Brian Borchik
The Winds of Cold Springs Harbor Marina
Baldwinsville, NY

You can make them from stainless, titanium, aluminum, whatever. Metals do something called "galling", stainless steel being the WORST. Spark plugs never technically "rust" in the head, they gall.. or stick. Use never-seize on plugs (which you're always supposed to do) and they will always come out perfectly and easily. That's just marketing propaganda. They still use a copper core which wears out in a year. Trash. Copper core plugs are suited for lawn mowers that's about it. Even then I still wouldn't use them in my own. Boat's always run at higher RPMS and need a good robust plug that won't wear out. Copper plugs will widen their gap over time and you'll go from .045 to .060 in a year causing reduced fuel economy and hesitation. Yuck.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

Ric,

Doing a metallurgy degree many years ago, befoe I discovered "plastics", I can assure you that aluminium is far worse than stainless steel for "galling". Basically, the very soft aluminium sheds it's ( extremely hard) aluminium oxide layer which locks up threads. Al to Al threads so affected are essentially not seperable. I agree with you about "never seize" type materials, I have always use colloidal nickel on spark plug threads, I have never ever had one seize ( in 30+ years)