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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 5:25 pm 
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Sting Ray
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
I need to replace the lines as they were burned badly when the impeller went out, my friend was driving and I failed to mention to him he needed to keep an eye on temp so the exhaust got so hot it burned the lines including a battery line, THANK GOD there was enough paint on the exhaust to avoid a short and an electrical fire and I'll be immediately putting a fuse on that cable henceforth, so now I need to replace the trim lines, how would you detach them from the transom wall, they're way back there and hard to access, I bought a hinged offset line wrench but it's not working, my guess is a fixed 90 degree line wrench but maybe you've done this and can tell me how, or point me to an old Four Winns tech manual

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Last edited by supermanotorious on Sun Jul 22, 2012 9:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:12 pm 
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supermanotorious wrote:
I need to replace the lines as they were burned badly when the impeller went out, my friend was driving and I failed to mention to him he needed to keep an eye on temp so the exhaust got so hot it burned the lines including a battery line, THANK GOD there was enough paint on the exhaust to avoid a short and an electrical fire and I'll be immediately putting a fuse on that cable henceforth, so now I need to replace the trim lines, how would you detach them from the transom wall, they're way back there and hard to access, I bought a hinged offset line wrench but it's not working, my guess is a fixed 90 degree line wrench but maybe you've done this and can tell me how, or point me to an old Four Winns tech manual
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/ ... 18a28c.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/ ... e12633.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/ ... ec358a.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/ ... e55da1.jpg


A fuse isn't going to stop the line from burning when it is caused by a overheated exhaust. I would be looking to reroute the line or put some stand offs on once you get it off.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 7:01 pm 
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Sting Ray
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Posts: 71
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Thalasso wrote:
supermanotorious wrote:
I need to replace the lines as they were burned badly when the impeller went out, my friend was driving and I failed to mention to him he needed to keep an eye on temp so the exhaust got so hot it burned the lines including a battery line, THANK GOD there was enough paint on the exhaust to avoid a short and an electrical fire and I'll be immediately putting a fuse on that cable henceforth, so now I need to replace the trim lines, how would you detach them from the transom wall, they're way back there and hard to access, I bought a hinged offset line wrench but it's not working, my guess is a fixed 90 degree line wrench but maybe you've done this and can tell me how, or point me to an old Four Winns tech manual
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/ ... 18a28c.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/ ... e12633.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/ ... ec358a.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/ ... e55da1.jpg


A fuse isn't going to stop the line from burning when it is caused by a overheated exhaust. I would be looking to reroute the line or put some stand offs on once you get it off.


that's not what I meant, I am an MECP certified installer, when I ran the charging line to the isolator I did not fuse it, once the exhaust burned the rubber coating off the charging line, the exposed wire could have arced against the exhaust tube

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 9:48 am 
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Sting Ray
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 8:14 pm 
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Sting Ray
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well this little guy just came in the mail, just in time too as I received the new lines yesterday, as happy as I am, trouble is a brewin, steps 2-4 are the worst, they are as follows: remove the drive unit as described in chapter 10, remove the pivot housing as described in chapter 11, and remove the engine as described in chapter 6 :x :cry:

now that being said, if you need information from this holy book, I will provide for a nominal fee

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 3:21 pm 
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I had a leak in a fitting cracked and leaking on one of those lines you describe. I tried all the wrench combinations I could come up with (and after many years of fixing boats and cars I have all the tools needed) I could not really get to it properly. I therefore lived with a slow weep for a while.

Now fortunately -- or unfortunately -- because of an exhaust riser gasket issue causing an exhaust valve problem -- I pulled the engine.
It was mush easier to get to -- but not easy to get loose -- with the engine out of the way.

lets hope you find some easy way -- but pulling the engine is not as difficult as you might think

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 6:51 pm 
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Sting Ray
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well thank you for the insight, my biggest concerns about pulling the engine are:

the lack of two hoists to hold the drive unit and the engine

and

the new o rings/gaskets for everything disassembled

DaleG wrote:
I had a leak in a fitting cracked and leaking on one of those lines you describe. I tried all the wrench combinations I could come up with (and after many years of fixing boats and cars I have all the tools needed) I could not really get to it properly. I therefore lived with a slow weep for a while.

Now fortunately -- or unfortunately -- because of an exhaust riser gasket issue causing an exhaust valve problem -- I pulled the engine.
It was mush easier to get to -- but not easy to get loose -- with the engine out of the way.

lets hope you find some easy way -- but pulling the engine is not as difficult as you might think

_________________
wakeskate and wakeboard with no boat?!-
http://www.phoenixwinch.com

1994 Freedom 170
OMC Cobra (by Volvo Penta) 3.0L


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 6:36 pm 
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Sting Ray
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
I just thought of cutting out the burnt area and splicing with male to male barb and multiple pipe clamps, does anyone know if it will hold the pressure?

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1994 Freedom 170
OMC Cobra (by Volvo Penta) 3.0L


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:19 pm 
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supermanotorious wrote:
I just thought of cutting out the burnt area and splicing with male to male barb and multiple pipe clamps, does anyone know if it will hold the pressure?


I am embarrassed :oops: to say but I have one hose that was burnt and spliced as you have described. Never noticed it when I had the engine out it was covered by the blower hose otherwise I would have changed it. :oops: It has held for as long as I have had the boat. Double clamp it if you can.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 12:11 pm 
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Sting Ray
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well we decided (after much deliberation) to cut one of the new lines in half and splice them to the existing lines just past the burns, kinda hillbilly but it did the trick, I saved about $600 and/or the labor of pulling the motor so I am pretty happy with the results as we're bound for Lake Powell over the Labor Day weekend

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wakeskate and wakeboard with no boat?!-
http://www.phoenixwinch.com

1994 Freedom 170
OMC Cobra (by Volvo Penta) 3.0L


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