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When replacing trailer hardware, I can't see using anything but stainless. It does end up costing a bit with all the lag screws, etc., but cry once and then be happy you did it all right IMO.
On extending the bunks - mine only needed to be extended back about 1 1/2". The originals barely supported the transom, and didn't do that unless I had the boat as far up on the trailer as it would possibly go. I wanted to have a bit of leeway - say 1/4" to 1/2". So on the back, take a look at how yours are, and make a judgement as to whether you're happy with that. Maybe mine were unusually short. But it's very important that your transom be fully supported.
On the front, I had the outboard bunks extended up to the next crossmember - which is longer than they need to be, but that's the only place there is to weld on new stanchions. I had my shop do this work since they had the hoist to lift the boat off the trailer, the equipment to fabricate the new stanchions, and the experience and nerve to weld them on in the right locations at the right height. I previously bought a can of trailer touch-up paint and gave that to them to paint the new stanchions and weld areas.
On the bow tie-down, I used Boat Buckle brand. They make them in stainless and non-stainless. I went with stainless. Drilling the hole for it in the winch post support was harder than it looked - that's some tough, hard steel. Don't overlook using plain old chain, though. It doesn't look as nice but would be even stronger.
You should bleed your brakes at least every couple of years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the atmosphere. Bleeding them regularly will flush out the old fluid, or a good portion of it.
No expert here, I've just spent a lot more time and $$ on my trailer than I've needed to spend on my boat.
_________________  Mike 2005 Four Winns 230/240 VP 5.7GXi/DP 1998 F-150 XLT Boat Pic
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