www.iFourWinns.com

I need to replace my trailer lights and am looking for something that will last more than a few months! Any recommendations for waterproof LED lights that work well and have longevity? I trailer the boat, so it goes in and out of the water a lot. Mostly saltwater use.

Thanks!
John

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1988 215 Sundowner 5.7L OMC

http://www.optronicsinc.com/oemtruck3-new.html

Lifetime guarantee.

Here are the part numbers for direct replacements on the ~2003 - ~2010 trailers. I'm not sure if any of them would be right for yours, but they might provide a starting point.

STL-36RS Passenger tail
STL-37RS Driver tail w/license
MCL-95APG Fender front side markers
MCL-35A32G Winch post amber square
MCL-97RPG 3-Light bar, stainless steel

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

No matter what lights you install, don't depend on the trailer frame for the return ground path. If you are really ambitious, run a ground wire through the frame to each light fixture and connect that to the white ground wire in the trailer harness. If you're not that ambitious, then you can do like I did, and run two grounds from the tongue to each frame rail, then ground the tail light housings with a jumper ground wire to the frame rails. This way corrosion between the tongue and frame rails and between the light housing mount and the frame does not break your return path for the ground. I noticed that my running lights always worked but I had on and off trouble with the tail lights themselves. The running lights were attached to the frame and the fender mounts, but the tail lights were bolted to a piece of galvanized steel that was bolted to the frame with rusty bolt. Probably high resistance there. So I made sure the frame rails were connected to the tongue with ground straps and then grounded the tail light housing to the frame with a short jumper ground wire.
Ultimately the for the lights to work, they have to ground in the vehicle electrical system. With boat trailers 90% of the time light problems are ground problems, and 10% cheap light fixtures that corrode internally. Any wires that are joined with crimp on terminals have to be sealed, you can use liquid electric tape.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks Louc it just so happens that I have my left trailer running light off right now. It only works when it's wet for some reason and now I think I will look at how they were grounded.

Mine work, but one of the lenses doesnt seal all the way. When I opened it up, the contacts and inside are corroded. I know its a matter of time before they stop working. Good points on the ground. I looked and the ground is not the best setup right now, attached to the surge brake casing but without a terminal end, just loose wires wrapped around a screw. I am going to put a terminal end, wire-brush the area a bit to create a better contact.

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1988 215 Sundowner 5.7L OMC

the first think I do with any trailer is replace with sealed led lights, I get sick of the corosion on non leds. even is they are submersible.... they never last.

got mine on ebay and never had issues, with my last 2 boats

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"Changes In Latitudes, Changes In Attitudes "

1996 238 Vista dlx "Casper's Toy Too"
2006 5.0GXI w/closed cooling, DP-sm 1.95 drive
Previous boat:
1998 Sundowner 205

+1 what 230 Mike suggested. Quality product at a good price with a quick delivery.

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2006 H190 4.3L
2009 GMC Acadia
Michigan

I just upgraded mine to LEDs and wondering about sealing the 2-pin connectors, which show a bit of corrosion. Would you all suggest coating these with liquid electrical tape or cut off the connectors and use butt crimps with shrink wrap? Thinking about reliability and all the jacka$$es that love to tailgate in stop and go traffic.

Thanks,

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Joe
2007 Four Winns H200, MC 4.3mpi
2008 Hurricane GS202 (sold)

Gobs of a thick axle grease work great for keeping water out of electrical connections. I find the non-synthetic stuff works best, since it is much more gooey and sticky. Just slather it all around on both connections and then plug it together. Gob some more around the connection and it should be good for a few years.

On the rare occasion where I've had to use a quick and dirty connection using a wire cap, I've used grease-caps that you can find in the sprinkler section of Home Depot or Lowes.

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2002 Funship 214
VP 5.7 GX Si
2003 Tahoe

Thanks. Grease should work great - no longer than that connection is submerged.

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Joe
2007 Four Winns H200, MC 4.3mpi
2008 Hurricane GS202 (sold)

Trailer light comparison

http://www.boatingmag.com/gear/traileri ... ler-lights