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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 6:51 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
http://imgur.com/YLdoWfZ.jpg

These are ST 175/80-13 with a load rating lower than what my the boat/trailer weigh. Looking to get into an LT tire with a 15in rim since we drive long distances here in Florida.

Ideas? Opinions?

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
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1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 10:55 pm 
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What load rating are you looking for?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 2:18 am 
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You want the ST type tires, which has nothing to do with load rating. Not the LT style, which are for light trucks. The ST will have stiffer sidewalls and prevent swaying.
Those look like 3500 lb axles so i would think C load rating would be fine since two of them will exceed the capacity of your axle.

If you want to go up a step in load rating you can get D rated, but they will be overkill I believe. If you will be going long distance then go for the radials since they will run cooler than the bias ply.

My suggestion would be ST radials with a C rating at minimum. That setup will handle your trailer capacity and is good for up to around 7200-7300 lbs....your trailer Max is around 7000 lbs...your boat and trailer combined should Max at 5000 fully loaded and wet (fuel).

Check with your tire company to verify this though. I'm not sure you can get the load rating you want in a 15 inch tire in the LT. If you can you can go that route since your not near full load with your boat...if set on not using the ST you may see if the offer a XL in the 15 inch tire...these are beefed up LTs from what I was told.

I recently went thru this on mine and went back with STs but my tow is under two hours and with kiddos I never get more than 30 minutes without having to stop for sipping or pissing!

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08' H210SS
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 9:08 am 
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Location: Austin, TX
On a 13in rim a D rated tire is only 1600lb max. A C rated tire like a have is rated for 1300lb.

See my issue? I need to be at least 14in rim. On a 14 inch rim a C rated tire goes to 1700 and D at 2000.

No matter what I do I need new rims. Personally I'd like to do LT tires cause they don't care if you're doing 75mph on the highway for 4 hours.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 10:03 am 
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That's because the LT doesn't have load capacity of a ST...so if you are dead set on LT then yes you have to increase tire size...not only that they say to factor the LT at 90%, so that 2000 rating becomes 1800, so you will need D rating. Assuming the increase tire size will fit... All in all that's a pricey swap for the benefit..five rims and tires....or....get the radial ST

Also...I assume you have already but you want to check out your shackle bolts...may be the pic but they look corroded.

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08' H210SS
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Last edited by TX H210SS on Sat Nov 30, 2013 10:21 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 10:18 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
If you can go to 15" rims you have a lot of options, C and D rated . 14 s your best bet is the Kumho 357 ST D rated tire.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 11:35 am 
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Location: Austin, TX
They don't sell a 13" tire that can hold my boat's weight. Right now my current tire setup is actually about 1000lb shy. That explains why they look flat even at 60psi!!

The Kumho 857 in 195/14 seems to be the ticket. 2094lb each. Rated for 99mph. Millions of good reviews on the interwebs. My trailering plans here in Florida all involve highway so I need something I can do at least 75mph on.

So far I found $468 shipped for four and $208 for four 14in galvanized rims shipped. Why not 5? Because I have four good tires on the boat now, one will be a spare. Doesn't have to match, just has to get me home.

That's going to hurt the bank. Not to mention you're correct about the shackle rust it's starting to look iffy, along with the fact that the whole brake system needs replacing (inop), another $600+, and a broken/missing guide pole.

Ouch. I'm finally fixing up the trailer because when I do eventually buy a truck, it's going to be worthless unless these trailer repairs are done. It's not safe to tow anywhere currently.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


Last edited by ric on Sat Nov 30, 2013 11:41 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 11:37 am 
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Location: Columbus ,Ohio
Ric, I just bought a set of these for my boat. they are the bias tires but they are working fine so far. Click on the website and go to radial tires and rim packages , they have steel rims and aluminum at great prices. Hope this helps. http://www.trailertiresandwheels.com/20 ... iler-wheel

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 11:48 am 
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I went back to my inspection paperwork when I purchased the boat, they quoted a total of $425 for 4 new springs and hardware with labor. Sounds reasonable?

I can't do bias ply, Florida is all high speed 55+ mph roads. That would be asking for trouble.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 11:54 am 
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Location: Columbus ,Ohio
if you look they have radial tires on rims on that site. just look around.

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1997 Horizon RS 180
5.7 GL Volvo Penta /SX drive. (1.60)
2018 Ford F-150 super crew 4x4


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 10:42 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
I did the rebuild the old trailer routine over the past 11 years, I have replaced the axle, springs, added brakes, added rollers, put on a longer tongue, longer roller bars, replaced lights 2x, rewired the whole thing and added ground straps; the only parts that are original are the frame rails, cross members and winch post. Like the story of my grandfathers' axe LOL.
Next time I am buying new. It would have been the same money in the end, and I would have had a 2003 trailer instead of a 1994 like I do. Fortunately the Load Rite galvanizing was very good, the frame is still solid even after close to 20 years of salt water use. One good thing is I learned how to fix just about everything that goes wrong with a trailer. I discovered that the only things you can't buy for a trailer from the manufacturer, is the frame rails, you can buy the cross members and everything else. Probably because the ID plate is on one of the rails. If the frame rots on this one I'll just buy a used frame and figure out how to transfer the ID plate, or get it re-stamped. As it is you can't even read the OE one LOL....

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 11:14 am 
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Location: Austin, TX
My trailer is aluminum, it's not something you throw away because it needs shackles or brake rebuild!

Replacement cost is around $3500

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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 Profile  
 
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