www.iFourWinns.com

Yes, I'm serious. I went to change one of my trailer lightbulbs today and ran across a sealed contraption standing between me and the burned out bulb.

My question is really how do I get inside the sealed contraption (name?) in order to change the bulb and get it back together to avoid water getting in?

Here is the part that I am looking at:

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-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

You don't. You change the complete capsule. Better yet change all the lights to LEDs.

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Inboard, outboard, onboard never bored
KUT 'N LOOSE
'99 258 VISTA

Thanks, Where is the best place to find these?

BTW...it's not urgent, my directionals and brake lights work, I just noticed that one of the lights is not as bright as the other with the lights on. So I'll try to track down 2 to have a spare.

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-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

Worst marine, Overtons, Champion trailer.com. Champion tr has anything for a trailer. I got the best price on my LED's from Bass Pro Shop.

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Inboard, outboard, onboard never bored
KUT 'N LOOSE
'99 258 VISTA

You can't change those bulbs? They look just like the sealed units that came on my trailer, on which you could carefully (but forcefully) pry one end of the capsule open to get to the bulbs. Maybe that was a change since '98. However - I did get tired of messing with it and recently switched the whole thing to LED's. A major improvement.

If it helps, here's the LED's I bought for mine. I don't know what wiring harness or mounting hole changes have been made since '98, so you may need to do your own research "from scratch" anyway. The web site for these folks is http://www.optronicsinc.com.

Tail lights:

Left side: STL-37RS $34.29
Right side: STL-36RS $31.09

These tail lights have no plugs. Plugs are available from http://www.wiringproducts.com. Gender of plugs is determined by the brown wire, which is for the tail light.

8" Male 2-way pigtails: $1.09ea.
(1 per tail light needed)

Side markers:

Sides: MCL-95APG $5.29ea.
Winch post: MCL-35A32G $4.29ea.

Note - MCL-35A32G is not listed on the website and had to be researched by Tech Support; additional shipping time may be necessary on these.

Identification bar:

MCL-97RPG $16.49

Lifetime warranty - call Optronics if any problems. Tech Support told me that the quickest replacement method is to e-mail them a photo of the bad light and they'll ship another without waiting for the old one.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

At which point did you pry when changing bulbs (large or small end)? Do I need to disconnect and remove the entire assemby when doing this?

The smallest bulb has 1 filament broken, so that's what I'm looking to replace.

I think I'll research the LED upgrade over the winter and get all of the parts for a spring project. I like the idea of no maintenance, especially after my feeble attempt to change a bulb yesterday

I remember seeing your write-up on your LED install, I'm going to print that out and use as a guide.

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-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

Never mind, those do appear to be completely sealed. Mine look just like yours, except there are tabs (one at the big end and two at the small end) which you can pull back to release the outer shell. I don't know how much those capsules cost, but if it's very much at all I'd just put the money towards LED's.

Shoulda kept my mouth shut and let teker handle this one

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I appreciate your input Mike, especially the info on LEDs.

Who would of thought that replacing a tiny lightbulb would cause this much trouble.

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-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

How come you can run a car for years and never change a light bulb, but every time you hook up a boat trailer 1 light doesn't work?????????????

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Inboard, outboard, onboard never bored
KUT 'N LOOSE
'99 258 VISTA

Correction to another post here: The entire housing can be replaced OR the individual bulb(s). The part numbers to replace the bulbs are on the back of the housing. Its designed to snap off and back together if you choose the bulb replacement option.

The entire housing is like $10 and individual bulbs are about a $1 each. I decided to get 6 bulbs $10 shipped and have spares in case this happens again. Also, this way you don't have to splice wires with a new housing as its hard wired. Best cheapest route IMO. LEDs are nice but I don't want to spend the cash.

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-2006 H180 VP3.0 SS 21p

Actually, some of those are designed to come apart, and some are not. The two look virtually identical.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I went to LEDs a month ago. They are such an improvement! I paid pretty much what was listed above with the exception of getting both L and R main assemblies together for about $45 then bought the marker, clearance, and ID bars for about the same. They work great! Probably best money I've spent on the boat so far and I'll never tow a trailer of mine without LEDs again.

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Nubby


Living the DREAM

I had the same light setup on the '07 trailer when I got it. I kinda cheated and ordered the FW LED lights for the trailer rather than chancing any light bulb changes. Figured this way I didn't need to monkey with the plugs or bulbs ever! Looks great and +1 on never towing anything without LED's again.

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Rob
2007 Four Winns 180 Horizon

I would say it's because you don't submerge (hopefully you don't) your vehicle like you do W/trailer.

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2008 H190 4.3L Blue W/Red Graphic
2002 Honda CBR954RR BLK/SLVR slightly modded
2003 Yamaha Warrior 350 6spd < SOLD!

I actually cut into one with a utility knife beacause I wasn't convinced it was the bulb. I wasn't buying anything until I figured it out. Long story, but it ended up being a brand new tow vehicle problem. The connection was corroded.

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2002 Horizon 190 5.0gl