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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 1:24 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
Posts: 2032
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
jdpber: We are all quite aware that you prefer bunk trailers. Thanks for alleviating any confusion about that. :lol:

Except for being steel, I quite like the FW OEM trailer setup with 4 runners. Self centers very easily, and works well with the ramp slops that we have down here. However, I have encountered some shallow ramps in the Florida Keys that would require a roller trailer.

I am going to rebuild my trailer frame in the upcoming months. It will be Alum I-Beam with galvanized tongue, and the exact same bunk setup as the original (on aluminum supports).

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 9:56 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2010 6:58 am
Posts: 17
Location: Mass
My '94 Horizon 190 came with a steel bunk trailer. The bunks were fine, but I had to back into the water pretty darned far (a lot of truck into the water). The old steel trailer died a bad death last summer. I found a used trailer (7 years old) this winter but it was a roller. The Horizon is a heavy boat for its size and most used trailers weren't rated for the weight, and the ones the were rated were too long. Therefore one goes with what you can get since dropping $3500 on a new trailer for a 20 year old boat seems stupid. And I'll go roller if it means getting the trailer for $900.

I find the roller trailer easier to launch/retrieve both at the shallow lake ramp and the bay ramp in a Plymouth. However I worry a lot more about the roller suspension going, I worry about it pulling it up the ramp if it's sitting on the rollers correctly, etcetera. Also the boat sits a full 2 feet taller on the roller than it did on the factory bunk. It handles better on the road actually (tracks nice and stable but that could be my sweet new Grand Cherokee and not the trailer). But I don't like looking in the rear view mirror and seeing nothing but bow whereas before I could actually see through the boat windshield looking back.

If I had zero cost option, I'm not sure which way I'd go. The plus/minus honestly balances out. At the lake, roughly 75% of the trailers are bunk. At the harbor, it's about 95% roller. Big honking 3 axel roller trailers, holding big honkin 28+ footers with multiple massive 300hp outboards....I presume if you have a big boat with a big 3-5' draft then there's no way to back in a bunk trailer deep enough on most ramps.

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1994 Horizon 190
5.0L V8
SX/Cobra

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 6:16 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:59 pm
Posts: 341
Location: Cape Cod, MA
Mesimpson wrote:
However I worry a lot more about the roller suspension going, I worry about it pulling it up the ramp if it's sitting on the rollers correctly, etcetera.


http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Boat-Trailer-60-inch-Galvanized-Guide-Pole-Post-Kit-CE-Smith_p_877.html

Try these out to ensure your boat gets on straight every time. I actually got the pipe lights too, which keep the lights out of the water and always working. In a heavy wind or current, these uprights are amazing. I single hand the SD most of the time, and because of the cuddy and lack of access to the bow, I am not generally able to power onto the trailer, so these things have made it easy. If need be, I can actually pull the boat against them to roll it into position. Once bow is beyond them, I put strap on eye, and the boat goes nowhere. Then winch her up and they help make sure she doesn't move anywhere and is dead center.

http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/LED-Pipe-Light-Kit-with-LED-Side-Markers_p_823.html

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1988 215 Sundowner 5.7L OMC

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:47 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5662
Location: Long Island NY
You're worrying too much lol. Once you figure out how far to put in the trailer it will center fine ESP if you put side guides on it. Use a safety chain, keep it on till the stern is floating. People who have damage from roller trailers do not maintain them. Like I said earlier I just started changing a few rollers on a 20 year old salt water trailer. You inspect the rollers for cracks (you will see them long before there is a problem). Grease the pivots on the roller bars every few seasons.
Bunks rot and bunk brackets rust. Painted trailers is what I don't get, not at all, not even in fresh water.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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