www.iFourWinns.com

Hi All,

I've come to the realization that my 278 vista is a little heavy for the FW trailer since I trailer it. I just like being able to choose where I go and enjoy boating on different lakes/rivers. If I slipped the boat each season I wouldn't even be considering this but I am looking into a new aluminum trailer that is built a little heavier (12,500 gross) so the boat (just under 10,000# wet) won't push the limits of the trailer.

I really like the clean look of the new trailers with torsion axles, and I plan on getting disk brakes on all axles with turbo lube hubs. I figure I'd have no trouble selling the FW trailer as it is in really good condition. If I don't go aluminum, I figure I have a lot of retrofitting to do to the FW trailer to make it what I need.

Is anyone using an aluminum trailer for a Vista, and if so, how do you like it?

Thanks!

Joe

_________________
USCG 50 Ton Master Inland/OUPV Endorsement+Towing

1998 278 Vista - Twin 4.3 GLs, Kohler 4KW Gen, AC/Heat.
1999 Yamaha Waverunner SUV
2003 Yamaha Waverunner SUV w/MR-1 HO conversion

I wouldn't dissuade anyone from buying a better trailer, but what specifically has led you to conclude that the factory one isn't up to the job?

_________________


Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

It's not the factory one as a general rule is not up to the job - just that my trailer is not up to what I expect of it after 10 seasons of wear and tear. The trailer itself is fine, in fact, but in my case the running gear is a little lacking. The springs are ok but the bushings and shackles should be replaced, even though they're not bad yet. The drum brakes work ok, but in the year I've owned it I've replaced everything short of the master cylinder and the new shoes that I just replaced at the beginning of the season are worn noticably. In Illinois, we're supposed to have brakes on all axles but this one only has them on 2, which I'm sure contributes to the wear.

By getting a new trailer and selling the old one, I would gain the following: This combo weighs in just under 12K currently, and I can cut 1K off with the aluminum trailer. The disk brakes on all axles should wear and stop better. The turbo lube hubs will make it a lot easier to clean/inspect/replace bearings. Most importantly, with a new trailer I can enjoy the boat instead of worrying about and/or working on the trailer.

Basically it comes down to completing the overhaul to the current trailer with new springs or torsion axles, full disk brake conversion with a new coupler, and turbo lube hubs. Or, I can put the energy (not to mention the $) into getting a new one:)

_________________
USCG 50 Ton Master Inland/OUPV Endorsement+Towing

1998 278 Vista - Twin 4.3 GLs, Kohler 4KW Gen, AC/Heat.
1999 Yamaha Waverunner SUV
2003 Yamaha Waverunner SUV w/MR-1 HO conversion

Sounds like a good set of reasons. It seems like there's a trend on the part of some aluminum trailer manufacturers to make them too short for the boat. Be careful yours doesn't do that!

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I use aan aluminum to tow my 288 Vista. The trailer capacity is 15K#.

A couple of recommendations:

1. I would stay away from the turbo lube hubs. There are plenty of people on other boards complaining about them. Think they work great on dry land but I don't like the idea of dunking them in water. Id a grease filled hub has a rear seal compromized or is dunked warm in cold water, there is little to no room for water to get at the bearings. With a turbo lube hub, instant contamination of the oil.

2. Torsion over leaf any day.

3. Kodiak brakes. they have a silver cadmium plated unit that is economical and offers great protection. The calipers and rotors have held up great for me.

4. Opt for front bunks rather than just the pvc vee.

5. Go for stainless hardware.

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Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

jvalich,

I see the point on the Turbo Lubes. I also intend to get the stainless hardware and front bunks. What brand trailer do you have, and are you happy with it? I've been researching the different manufacturers but haven't picked one yet.

Thanks!

Joe

_________________
USCG 50 Ton Master Inland/OUPV Endorsement+Towing

1998 278 Vista - Twin 4.3 GLs, Kohler 4KW Gen, AC/Heat.
1999 Yamaha Waverunner SUV
2003 Yamaha Waverunner SUV w/MR-1 HO conversion

From a local company http://www.fastloadtrailers.com/

The Model http://www.fastloadtrailers.com/TrModels/model_3236TRH.htm

15k# capacity, triple torsion axle, 245/75R16 tires, SS hardware, 5000# Bull Dog Tongue jack, Front bunks, Spare tire, Kodiak disc brakes (Cadmium plated) on all axles.

Cost last year when aluminum was high $5600. The next cheapest price was for a 13K# trailer which would put me at my capcity with the boat was $6300. Loadrite dealer and Magictilt dealers were $7800 and $7200 respectively.

This fellow sells to dealers, if you come get it from him, it's sold at dealer cost. He had the trailer built for me in 4 days of giving him the green light.

_________________
Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

jvalich,

It sounds like their pricing is very reasonable and they're on my list of manufacturers to contact. There's another company in Panama City I intend to talk to as well. I live in Illinois but come down to the panhandle for vacation at least once a year, so pickup from either place would be possible for me.

I noticed that you have the 32'-36' model. Your boat LOA is supposed to be 30' but I don't know how you have it equipped. Is the reason you went longer for the extra weight carrying capacity or is it for the length. I know it's been noted before that the aluminum trailers are sometimes too short for the boats they're intended to carry. Mine is a little over 27' without the extended swim platform so based on your experience, would it be better for me to get the 29'-31', or the 26'-28' model?

Thanks again!

Joe

_________________
USCG 50 Ton Master Inland/OUPV Endorsement+Towing

1998 278 Vista - Twin 4.3 GLs, Kohler 4KW Gen, AC/Heat.
1999 Yamaha Waverunner SUV
2003 Yamaha Waverunner SUV w/MR-1 HO conversion

I had to cut about 2.5 ft off the bunks to shorten them. I also had to move the bow stop to the very front to get the best tongue weight. The larger size is for the added capacity. They knew the boat I was going to put on the trailer so they engineered it so the boat would work. I'd ask them. My guess would be that the 29-31 would work as well.

_________________
Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

Hope everyone had a great holiday! I finally got my new trailer on 12/8 (over a month later than the original date I was promised). That's the long-story-short version - I'd be happy to share the details of this terrible experience if anyone's interested. While doing some adjustments on the bunks and fixing somethings I didn't like, I found a couple issues - leaking brake fluid and rusty rotors...

It turns out there was a quality control issue with the flare fittings on the short brake hoses (all 5 of them are leaking) they used and therefore all the brake fluid leaked out on my shop floor - the manufacturer is going to send new hoses so other than the fact I have to turn wrenches on a new trailer I paid for, their customer service is pretty good. While working on this issue, I noticed that the Kodiak silver cad rotors had rust on them. Not just on the pad surface, but between the disks. It isn't completely covered in rust, but it seems kind of odd considering what Kodiak says about their corrosion resistance not to mention what they cost. I plan to mention this to the manufacturer when they get back from vacation, but maenwhile I have an email into Kodiak to get their story.

Can anyone that has these on their trailer tell me if they notice any rust or not? I'm just wondering if it was normal or not.

Thanks!

Joe

_________________
USCG 50 Ton Master Inland/OUPV Endorsement+Towing

1998 278 Vista - Twin 4.3 GLs, Kohler 4KW Gen, AC/Heat.
1999 Yamaha Waverunner SUV
2003 Yamaha Waverunner SUV w/MR-1 HO conversion

Joe,

What trailer manufacturer did you go with?

_________________
Brett DiMichele

Hi Brett,

I bought it through Zinner Marine in Utica, MI. It turns out the guy who is actually manufacturing the trailers (Great White Trailers) worked for Loadmaster previously. So mine is identical to the aluminum trailers by Loadmaster.

Since my last post I found another brake fitting that was leaking and the supports for the front bunks aren't long enough for the bunks to touch the hull so I've been in contact with the manufacturer. They've been really good to deal with and are shipping me the parts I've asked for so it could be worse. I'm sure they are happy they're not paying a marina for the work I'm doing myself to get it fixed:)

Overall, what I have is well built and should handle my boat well. My main issue with the whole experience was related to supply chain problems (backorders on axles and Kodiac brakes) for the manufacturer. This meant a lengthy delay when time was of the essence and it was further compounded by a lack of communication from the distributor. Once I started dealing with the manufacturer it was a lot better.

Joe

_________________
USCG 50 Ton Master Inland/OUPV Endorsement+Towing

1998 278 Vista - Twin 4.3 GLs, Kohler 4KW Gen, AC/Heat.
1999 Yamaha Waverunner SUV
2003 Yamaha Waverunner SUV w/MR-1 HO conversion

Joe,

I am glad that the manufacturer is working with you. It sure seems like trailers are anything but an exact science (at least when you get them from the MFG's anyway). There is a guy over on another forum who is a machinist and has outfitted his aluminum trailer the way I think they all should be built. If they built them like his, they would cost 30K each!

I really would like to split my trailer into half bunks/half rollers (rollers on the front) because of the steep launch I am stuck with, I have a hard time getting the boat on and off the trailer. I thought about an aluminum I Beam but the local Chap dealer (also a Loadmaster dealer) talked me out of it.. He said it wouldn't help my issues.

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Brett DiMichele

Brett,

I agree with you on the aluminum trailer issues. Structurally they're made pretty well but if the manufacturers would pay more attention to detail and finish, people like us would pay extra for it. On mine, I have no doubt it will be structurally sound because it's a 15K trailer for a 10K boat, but here are a few areas for improvement that I've noticed already:

1. Stop cutting the frame short and hanging the bunks so far past the edge of the last crossmember - On mine I told them I wanted no more than 6" which gives me a little room to lighten the tongue weight if necessary.

2. Stronger fender supports - they are adequate for holding the fenders but I could not use them for steps.

3. LED lights - for what these trailers cost, all lighting should be led units. They only cost $50-$75 more for led than the best sealed incadescant lights.

4. Brake lines - all of my lines are rubber , which granted, they're easier to install, but I would rather see stainless lines everywhere except for where flex is required.

5. Cap off ends of tubing rather than leaving them open. For very little cost, the trailer would have a much more finished look.

If I were manufacturing them, much like the guy you were referring to, they would cost more, but not so much that people wouldn't opt to pay for the extra details. It seems that one could offer the lower-end utility level trailer like they currently come as well as a high-end package that has all of the details we would want. I feel that all of the above areas of concern plus others I haven't thought about could be offered for an extra $500 or so. Certainly worth it to the guys like us who care about how they look.

Aside from all that, I like your idea for splitting the bunks. I have the same problem with the FW trailer. I can only rarely float the boat off the trailer and I can't winch it on at all, which is a problem if you want to boat in areas where it's illegal to power on. I have to be careful because if I have the trailer too far in the water the AC strainer can end up sitting on one of the bunks (there's only 2" of clearance normally). I have the front bunks on my new trailer and am considering adding bunk slides to them to make it easier. One thing the aluminum trailer might help with is the amount of friction against the hull since the cypress bunks are only 4" wide. This might allow the boat to slide off easier, but I'll have to wait until I can get the trailers swapped.

Joe

_________________
USCG 50 Ton Master Inland/OUPV Endorsement+Towing

1998 278 Vista - Twin 4.3 GLs, Kohler 4KW Gen, AC/Heat.
1999 Yamaha Waverunner SUV
2003 Yamaha Waverunner SUV w/MR-1 HO conversion

Joe,

I hear you about the details! A little effort and a little more cost sure does go a long way to a quality finished product.

Sounds like we are "in the same boat" at the ramp... It sure is a miserable process and I can't even fathom trying to launch a 318!

_________________
Brett DiMichele