www.iFourWinns.com

I'm considering replacing all of the bearings on my trailer before the towing season gets underway because I noticed a little noise when spinning the wheel and wondered what some of you thought on a couple options that I've come up with.

First, I was considering just buying replacement hubs that were already packed with bearings and grease then use my existing hubs as spares, but after investigating further, I found many were made in China. My gut tells me these would not be in my best interest.

My second option that I'm leaning towards is to do the dirty work and buy new seals, bearings, races and add on Bearing Buddies. I would probably buy one pre-packed set to use as a spare.

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-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

I did mine at the end of it's first season. It's a PITA, but when you're done you'll have a complete understanding of the most important part of your trailer. If you have a decent trailer shop nearby, they should have all the parts you need, and they're much cheaper than many people think. If you replace the bearings, also replace the races. For that you'll need a long punch, and a 3lb hammer is very helpful. So is a set of race drivers, which cost around $30. On the seals, be sure to get the double-lipped ones with the springs in them.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I got one wheel done tonight, took me about 3 hours. Getting the races out are a real b****. I'm just glad I only have a 2-wheel trailer.

I got the parts at a local trailer shop and it cost $60 for bearings w/races, seals, grease, and bearing buddies. Better than any price I found online. Plus, since I wrecked a seal putting it in, I can stop by tomorrow and pick up a new one. When I told them it was for a boat trailer, he made sure I had the double-lipped seal.

I'm having trouble getting the bearing buddy to sit properly on the hub. Anyone have any tips? I was using a 1x4 to try and tap it into place to no avail. It seemed to keep going crooked and I could pull it right out.

Also, any tips on removing/installing races? This is what took me the most amount of time, even with a long punch tool. It also could be that they've been in there for 10 years...

Needless to say, 1 hub and 2 bearing buddies left to go. The completed wheel turns quietly now, before it had a sort of tick to it when it turned, so I know the job will be worth it.

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-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

Getting the races out is kind of traumatic the first time you do it . It helps to have a 3# hammer, and after you do a couple of them you'll just start beating the hell out of 'em and not worry about it, and you'll start getting them out much faster. The other trick on getting them out is to start on one side of the race and get it to budge, and then move to the opposite side, then back and forth, "walking" it out.

Getting the new ones back in is where a race driver set can help quite a bit. One like this:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd41630.html

I just grabbed that link at random, I've never done business with that particular place before. But that's roughly what a full set of drivers should cost.

As to the BB's, I don't have them, but I would think "baby taps" all around the edge until it gets started straight might work. Also, I don't know, but a race driver might help with those, too.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Thanks, I figured there had to be a better way than tapping in with the punch tool. The larger race went in better because the hub was wider at that point and I could just go around in circles without slipping. Figures because that was the worst one to take out.

Maybe I'll see if the trailer shop has a set when I pick up a new seal. $2 seal turns into $40 purchase, at least I would get more tools out of it

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-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

If you drove the new races in with your punch, and the punch slipped off, you need to make absolutely certain that you didn't leave even the slightest scratch or score mark on the face of the race. Hate to tell you that!

BTW, congrats on having what sounds like a good trailer shop nearby. I've found having that is one of the greatest helps in owning a boat. At mine I recently found a solution to the problem of how to mount Boat Buckles, something I've been wrestling with for two years.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Boat Buckles

I have mine but have not installed yet.

Please share what you have found out

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Jeff

2006 Four Winns Yellow Horizon 30th Anniversary 200 SS
2005 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
2004 Ford F-150 Lariat

http://www.seabrook-services.com

I'm waiting til they're done, then I'll do a post on it. Should be a week or two (I hope).

That project is competing for time with a stereo project and some charity work I'm doing (plus all the usual stuff).

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

A little hint.... Heat the bearing up to about 230F in the oven and put a little never sieze on the shaft, then it will have expanded enough to slide right on. Once you get the bearing on let it cool completely and you can actually do the same with the drum, or what ever you have for the outer member. I do this type of stuff at work, and it's a breeze. Avoid striking the bearing if at all possible.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Mike, have you got a name to recommend? I've been dealing with Croft Trailer, but if there is someone better I'd go with your judgment on that one.

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Paul
2007 Four Winns Horizon 220
Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI w/ Bravo III Drive
2004 Ford Explorer Limited (V8-AWD)
Pomme de Terre Lake (Southwest Missouri)

Nope, Croft is where I go too. They've had all the bearings, races, seals, washers, harnesses, etc. I've needed.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

When I replaced the whole kit and kaboodle on my Maxum, I just got the whole assembly through Croft. That included the brake pads and cylinders, and bearing kit. I don't remember exactly how much, but I'd say around $120 for the whole axle. I was done with both sides in about an hour and a half.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Second tip, make sure you heat them up in a pan approved by the wife for the purpose. You'll catch hell if you foul up expensive ovenware.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Task Completed!!!

Not exactly as planned, but I'm done. When I went to do the second hub tonight, the bolt that the lug nut goes on was spinning on the hub. So I call the trailer shop (luckily open until 8 on Fri), and he tells me to bring it in and he'll pull it off (ended up no charge). I hooked up and hauled over and got a lesson on the zerk fitting on the spindle and swapped out the bearing buddies I bought for a new hub and a couple of new dust covers.

Now I have 1 new hub, 1 newly packed hub w/new bearings and 1 new spare hub ready to go. Best part is that I didn't need to throw any parts in the oven...not so sure how well that would have gone over.

Hats off to Tom's Trailers in Menomonee Falls, WI for putting up with all of the questions of a newby and making sure I was taken care of.

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-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

Not a lot on torquing the nut in here so remember to torque the nut as you rotate the hub slowly. also check the torque after you have taken the trailer out for a spin. Too loose and the whole assembly will wear out quickly, too tight and you risk over heating the assembly. Timkin has a pdf on their site about proper torque method but i couldnt find the link.

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Guns kill people like spoons make people fat.
2007 Horizon 190 Gxi
97 Pathfinder SE 4x4
73 International Scout II