www.iFourWinns.com

I just got back from a 1000 mile trip and noticed that my discs still have surface rust on them... indicates to me that my brakes aren't working properly or at all It explains the brake fade I was getting on my tow vehicle down the longer hills and twisty roads! Does anyone know what the best procedure to bleed these is as I suspect there is a chunk of air in there somewhere or a leak or both.

I have always noticed from day 1 that when I take off from the lights there is a clunk in the coupling as all the slack takes up - I specifically asked the dealer to check it last winter - must have given it the 3 second glance then declared it was fine and normal. Now I suspect it may have never been properly bled from the factory.

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

You could just gravity bleed them or get your self a brake bleeder kit. I prefer gravity bleeding. Just crack the bleeders open and sit back with a nice cold beer until you have run a bottle or two of fluid through the lines and not seeing any air bubbles appearing at the bleeder.

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1998 Baja Boss 252 7.4L MPI Bravo 1 (SOLD)
2007 FW H200SS 5.0GXI (Sold)
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500 Crew 6.0L (tow vehicle)
1991 FW 170 Freedom 4.3L (SOLD)

Or if you're in a hurry, have a helper pump the actuator with a screwdriver while you crack the bleeders. There's a hole in your actuator housing for that purpose.

A small "clunk" is almost always normal, but if it sounds like an uncushioned "bang" you're probably very low - or empty - on fluid.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Any pics of where that hole is?

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2000 Four Winns 248 Vista (Nice toys, no Air)
2001 Highly Modified Yamaha GP1200R (75+MPH)

This is a great method to get started. I have found that you may still need to pressure bleed at the end of this process. Rapid fluid movement is often required to remove air bubbles from some areas of the calipers etc.

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H210SS 6.2
F150 Platinum

Actually on a 2000 you're going to have a different actuator, so the means of manually pumping the actuator may be different. But there's almost certainly a way to do it.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I use a 4' long 2 X 4 with the safety chains wrapped around the board at the bottom, middle of the board hitting the coupler, and person pushing the top of the board. This way one of the kids can pump the actuator while I crack the bleeder valve.
This method has worked for my last three boat trailers.

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2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
Videos

I use a one man brake bleeder made by a company called Lisle, it's a simple device that looks like a small cup with a couple of hoses on it. The Tie Down actuator I have has a slot in it where you can put a big screwdriver and that enables you to pump the master cylinder. You hook up the bleeder (you put some brake fluid in it and the design allows the old fluid and air to come out without the air going back in) open the bleeder valve on the brake cylinder or caliper, then pump until there is no air in the clear line on the bleeder. Works well and I usually bleed it out evey couple of seaons to keep moisture out of the brake fluid.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II