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Surge brakes kept locking
https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=334		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  ShanMan14 [ Sun Aug 13, 2006 1:47 pm ]
Post subject:  Surge brakes kept locking
I've had the boat out a total of five times now. Yesterday, while backing the empty trailer into the water, the brakes kept locking. They'd not done that previously.

The surface is gravel, which would provide more resistance, but we've launched at the same place four times now and they've never locked!

I went to insert the brake lockout pin and couldn't get the holes aligned! I tried a "jackrabbit" start to open it up, but as soon as I slow down the holes wouldn't align - VERY frustrating. I finally had to have someone walk alongside and insert the pin as we were moving - not safe.

My questions are this:

1) Have I just been lucky and should have been using the lockout pin the entire time?

2) How am I supposed to get the holes to line up so I can insert the locking pin?

Sure makes me look like an idiot at the ramp... :roll:
Author:  Midlife Crisis [ Sun Aug 13, 2006 3:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yep you've been lucky.
When we got our new boat backing up worked fine for the first year without inserting the pin but now just about every time I back up the brakes lock up. To solve this when I need to back up I...

1. Take the pin out of the coupler lock.
2. Put a 1 foot long 4X4 piece of wood under the front of any trailer tire.
3. Put the vehicle into drive and move forward just enough to get the tire to go up against the wood and to extend the coupler exposing the backup hole.
4. Put the pin into the backup hole.
5. Back up a little bit and get the wood.
Author:  ShanMan14 [ Sun Aug 13, 2006 5:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
Wow, surely that can't be the "standard procedure"?

I looked in the owner's manual and gives basic info, then references the manual for the trailer. The only trailer literature I have is the installation guide for the braking system which provides no addition insight.
Author:  ifourwinns [ Sun Aug 13, 2006 5:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
to keep from having to do the above trick, you can put the pin in while the boat is still on the trailer before backing in the water

OR

IF you have a 4 way connector on your tow vehicle,
try putting the 5th pin off your trailer wiring into the 1st female connector of your tow vehicle which is your headlights. Then turn on your lights and see if the brake will disengage.
Author:  230 Mike [ Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
My lockout solenoid failed after about the 5th trip. Tie Down sent me a new one no charge; installing it was a bit of a job. It's been trouble free so far (again after about 5 trips). Someone told me the mfr. of the solenoids had a large batch of defective ones get out, but I don't know that for sure, or if the things just are unreliable. But it sounds like that's the source of your problem.

If you want more information on replacing it, let me know.
Author:  ShanMan14 [ Mon Aug 14, 2006 7:30 am ]
Post subject: 
230 Mike wrote:
My lockout solenoid failed after about the 5th trip. Tie Down sent me a new one no charge; installing it was a bit of a job. It's been trouble free so far (again after about 5 trips). Someone told me the mfr. of the solenoids had a large batch of defective ones get out, but I don't know that for sure, or if the things just are unreliable. But it sounds like that's the source of your problem.

If you want more information on replacing it, let me know.


Since the replacement, you haven't had a problem? So, it should NOT engage the brakes when backing the trailer with or without the boat?

I'll have my dealer take care of it since I have to bring it in anyway for some warranty issues.
Author:  jvalich [ Mon Aug 14, 2006 7:57 am ]
Post subject: 
The backup solenoid should be wired to the 5th pin which is energized when you put the vehicle in reverse. Is should be wired to the reverse lights.

The solenoid in in a normal open position when de-energized and closed to prevent pressure on the DISC brakes when energized. A backup solenoid is only needed on disc brake systems. Drums are free backing.

I fyour coupler, master cylinder and backup solenoid is working properly you should have no need to usse a lockout pin.

One thing, if you stop and there is pressure in the brakes and you too quickly shift in revers, you can tral pressure in the brake system which will prevent you from backing up easily.

About the only time I can see needing a lockout pin is if you stopped on a downgrade where the height of the trailer is pushing on the truck and you wanted to back up the hill.

Here is a good link http://www.championtrailers.com/Solenoid%20Valves.pdf
Author:  ifourwinns [ Mon Aug 14, 2006 8:26 am ]
Post subject: 
jvalich...that is assuming you have a 5 pin connector on your tow vehicle....mine only has 4 so i use the headlight trick often.
Author:  ShanMan14 [ Mon Aug 14, 2006 8:31 am ]
Post subject: 
I have a five pin connector, but I was told to always unplug the trailer lights before entering the water to load/launch. It's my understanding the reverse lights signal the solenoid from activating the disc brakes. But, what good is this if I'm always unplugging it?

jvalich, according to what you're describing, my (and others in this thread) have trailer brakes that aren't working as designed?
Author:  jvalich [ Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:24 am ]
Post subject: 
Not if you are unplugging the lights before you launch. Mostly the unplugging came from the time whne the bulbs would be hot and the temp change would break them. Now, most of the lighta are sealed and/or LEDs. If your wiring is properly sealed and your lights are waterproof leaving the plug in shouldn't be a problem.

With Disc braks and needing the reversing solenoid to be energized, there is little choice.
Author:  230 Mike [ Mon Aug 14, 2006 12:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
I had one of my tail light bulbs blow after dunking on the 2nd or 3rd trip, but they've been fine ever since and I don't unplug them.

Also, the lockout solenoids used on the '05 and '06 trailers are of an improved design that will not lock the brakes if the system is pressurized when the solenoid is activated. In other words, if the solenoid is working properly, even if the brakes are "on" when you put the tow vehicle into reverse, the newer solenoids will release the pressure in the system and allow the trailer to move in reverse.
Author:  ShanMan14 [ Mon Aug 14, 2006 12:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
After Saturday, I'd gladly replace all of the lights five times over than have to deal with that again! I'll leave the lights plugged in!!
Author:  230 Mike [ Mon Aug 14, 2006 8:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
One thing I did while replacing the blown tail light bulb was to go ahead and open up both tail light assemblies and put a bit of dielectric grease on the bulb and fixture contacts. Whether this has helped anything, who knows. But I like to put a little of that on as many electrical contacts as possible on the trailer and on the boat.
Author:  glmarker [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 6:27 am ]
Post subject: 
While it may sound stupid, change those old outdated lights to the new LED lights, They are much brighter both when on and when braking. Easier for others to see you. I put a set on my 2002 the week after purchase, and have not have a trailer light problem to this day. I have never uplugger my lights, It's amaxing how many people still unplug the lights and then forget to plug them in when loading again. Then they drive off, with no lights on their trailer.
Author:  ShanMan14 [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 7:24 am ]
Post subject: 
gmarker wrote:
While it may sound stupid, change those old outdated lights to the new LED lights, They are much brighter both when on and when braking. Easier for others to see you. I put a set on my 2002 the week after purchase, and have not have a trailer light problem to this day. I have never uplugger my lights, It's amaxing how many people still unplug the lights and then forget to plug them in when loading again. Then they drive off, with no lights on their trailer.


Where did you get them?
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