www.iFourWinns.com

While taking the boat to its slip for the season, I noticed that the forward wheels on the dual axle had more weight on it causing the tilt that looked like the trailer with boat was down on the rear end of the truck. Not alot but it looked like it would cause a problem if I wanted to trailer long distance. There was no extra weight in the bow of the boat, all equipment was centered between the dual axles to even the ride. Is it my truck that is causing the problem? I had new shocks put on the rear. Any suggestions to check things out?

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Alexj



1995 Four Winns Horizon 190
OMC 5.0 RL

Try raising the height of the towball until the trailer is level. May have to flip the removable hitch part over. I had the same scenario when I swapped tow vehicles, so removed the ball, flipped the stepped hitch over, then put the ball back on and it was perfect.

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

+1

Level the trailer off the hitch, measure, and put it on the hitch. The difference is the rise or drop hitch you need.

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Rob
2007 Four Winns 180 Horizon

He didn't change vehicles just shocks BUT I agree W/previous two. I had to flip mine when I went from Liberty to FJ.

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2008 H190 Blue W/Red accents 4.3L Merc
2015 Tacoma Access Cab Super White 4x4 TRD Sport
2014 HD FXDC Black Stage 1 Mods V&H Bolt Ons,Naked VO2 AC & FP3.
2011 Polaris 500HO RED]
Life Long Boston Bruin Fan 2011 Stanley Cup Champs!!
#736

Sorry, I did change vehicles. I went from a chevy silverado 1500 4dr to a GMC 1500 3dr.

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Alexj



1995 Four Winns Horizon 190
OMC 5.0 RL

I'd say it must be something different about your new truck - doesn't have the same springs - might need to add an extra leaf if it is a concern. If you don't tow very far or often it might be ok. Extra leafs = harder ride.

Ball height is the answer. With trailer level, measure from the ground to the top of the coupler. This is the height that it needs to be when hitched up to tow. You may find that it squats the truck X.XX inches, so you must raise the ball to compensate.

Shocks have nothing to do with carrying capability, they only dampen/smooth the ride. Springs are what carry the weight. As mentioned above, one option is to add another spring. If you choose this route, Hellwig mfg, make a system that is in essence an overload spring, once the weight is applied, the spring helps with the load, and empty ride is for the most part unchanged. I had done this on one of our tow vehicles many years ago with great success.
My current tow vehicle I have air bags, I really like them as I can adjust the air pressure to fit the weight being carried and the ride I want. Whether I am towing our 5th with 3000 lbs hitch weight or 500 lbs tongue pull trailer, very easily adjusted.
Only you can decide what you need for your towing needs.

Here are some links for helper spring/air bag options

http://www.fsip.com/riderite/


http://www.hellwigproducts.com/
http://www.hellwigproducts.com/products/helper_springs/ez_level


Very important that the trailer when hitched up is sitting level for the surge brakes to actuate and to tow properly. Yes you can get away with it, for a short distance, but I do recommend, that you do get it adjust properly.

tongue down: surge brake coupler wont release, will wear brakes.
tongue high: surge brake coupler wont activate, little/less effective brake.

Both conditions will affect handling, fishtailing/sway, steering, crosswind turbulence, ride, ect...

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2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
Videos

How about using an adjustable hitch ball mount that you can adjust ball height. If your truck have a soft spring and change height with load change it is very convenient… Little pricy although…

That was my first bit of advice, then change/upgrade suspension if you don't like how much its squatting truck. A level truck is important for proper towing as well.

Another thing to be extra careful of is the max tow rating of a new hitch drawbar, should you decide to lower your hitch ball without using one of those adjustable versions. Pay special attention to the max rating if you buy hitch drawbars from Walmart, Autozone, Tractor Supply, etc. When a hitch drawbar is dropped more than 2", the max rating goes down, unless it has a special gusset or brace. I had to go to a speciality truck/trailer store to find what I needed when I wanted a 5" drop. Most "cheaper" 5" drop drawbars are rated at 5000 lbs. I needed about 6000 lbs (because my boat/trailer also weighs in at 5000 lbs) just in case my gear is a little on the heavy side. Best of luck!

2008 H220 Frenzy 5.7L VP

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2008 H220 Frenzy - 5.7L VP SX Drive
2013 Tahoe LTZ Tow Vehicle (admiral's ride)
2011 Ford F150 XLT Ecoboost Tow Vehicle

My dad is a retired carpenter that still works full time and he just got a new truck and when he put all his tools in the back the trucks rear end sagged really bad. I added Helper Leafs to his truck for him. Now the truck sits level again and rides better with the load. I didn't get a chance to try it with out the load but from the design of the helper leafs when the weight is off the rear of the truck they stop helping, so the ride should stay the same.
Just another option if your truck sags while the boat is in tow. The Helper Leafs I got my dad was like $30 from O'Reily's.
These are the one's I installed for him. http://www.amazon.com/Superior-11-1020- ... B00029K022

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Troy
2008 Centurion Avalanche
1994 Four Winns Horizon 180 SE 5.0L OMC Cobra (Sold)
2002 Ford F150 Harley Davidson Edition (http://www.nhtoc.com) 378 hp & 465 tq at rear wheels
2008 Honda Accord EX-L w/Nav