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Virtual trailer build https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4557 |
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Author: | millhaven_nice_guy [ Mon Sep 14, 2009 12:21 pm ] |
Post subject: | Virtual trailer build |
Ok we have heard lots of complaints about the FW trailers... Let's build the ultimate trailer in our little virtual world. Here are the basic specs-- 1- tandem 2- capacity to suit the application Let's assemble your best components (specs and pictures) and debate what should be on the "ultimate" trailer. Maybe somebody from FW will see this and use some of our ideas!(yeah right!) Here are the debateable items -painted versus gatorhyde vs galvanized -C Channel or boxed frame construction -surge hydraulic or electric brakes -single or dual set of brakes -springs or torsion axles -drop axles or straight -bunks or rollers -side bunks or guide posts -LED vs standard lighting -grommett style recessed or surface mount lights -fixed tiedowns vs removeable straps -roller foot or fixed plate jack bottom -strap or steel cable for winch -single speed or two speed winch -treatment of non skid areas -aluminum or steel rims |
Author: | jacknbella [ Mon Sep 14, 2009 2:00 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Virtual trailer build |
1) Fixed tie-downs suck. Good old-fashioned straps are extremely reliable and just as easy to use. 2) A 2-speed winch would be ideal. Sign me up!!! 3) The carpeted bunks need to be "slippery-er" because cranking a 5K lb boat ain't easy and bottom rollers can be dangerous on steep inclines. 4) The entire winch mechanism needs to be more stout. |
Author: | 230 Mike [ Mon Sep 14, 2009 3:37 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Virtual trailer build |
Given the fact that I've had zero problems with brakes or my winch (which is already 2-speed), I would vote for: - LED's (already changed mine and I thought the new trailers were coming standard with them) - A stronger tongue jack, still with a wheel - Side guides that are much stronger or an entirely different design, possibly with lights for us night boaters - Either gatorhyde or galvanized - no painted - and if galvanized, everything that can get wet or splashed is galvanized - All hardware to be stainless steel - Aluminum wheels - Choice of Sure-lube or oil bath hubs - Bunks that extend a bit further back than what they normally do, and outboard bunks which extend further forward than normal (to the next frame cross member). |
Author: | Aussie_Horizon_190 [ Mon Sep 14, 2009 8:12 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Virtual trailer build |
+1 to Mikes comments... My trailer is almost perfect (as I ordered it) - galvanized, gatorhyde, alloy wheels, alloy spare, tandem, 4 wheel override discs etc. Just a few comments/suggestions: - Mine came with LED lights (had to be changed to meet Australian registration requirements), but a must have - Fix the brake lines to the axles with zip locks etc. - needed on mine to meet local registration requirements - All hardware and fixings need to be stainless - Need rubber caps on the brake bleeders - in salt water the damned things corrode and you have to remove the bleeders and clean them before you can even contemplate bleeding the brakes - Stopping power of four wheel discs is pretty ordinary unless an emergency, then they only work OK. 2 wheel disc version brakes worked much, much better. Seems they use the same size master cylinder for 2 & 4 wheel brakes, but 4 wheel require much more volume to be moved to actuate. On my 'to-do' list for the future! Overall, Very happy with my box section galvanized trailer! C-section is too flexible IMHO and will twist. I tow quite long distances sometimes (1000 mile round trips) often on crappy third-rate coastal roads and do not have a single complaint about how it has performed to date. I powerload my boat all the time (concrete ramps everywhere I have been - must be lucky I guess) so never have an issue with bunk friction, winches, side bunks etc. ![]() Edit: Oh yes, the tongue jack rattles like hell when towing (not exclusive to FW trailers). I fixed it by tying it to the chassis rail with a rubber shock cord, but there must be a better way! |
Author: | LouC [ Mon Sep 14, 2009 9:30 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Virtual trailer build |
I would not get the FW trailer not because of construction issues...but rather because being in a coastal region (7 foot depth change from low to high tide) a bunk trailer would not work well on our ramps unless it's high or close to high tide...so I need rollers...galvanized or aluminum...spindle lube (super lube) hubs...leaf springs are fine...galvanized hardware is OK...stainless is more corrosion resistant but not as strong...Kodiak disc brakes...galvanized rims... I rebuilt my old galvanized (1994) Load Rite and the quality of the original galvanization is excellent...still rust free 15 years old salt water trailer...I replaced just about every u-bolt...the axle (upgraded capacity) springs (rusted and upgraded capacity) put on a longer tongue and longer roller bars...this allows me to launch without getting the rear wheels of the Jeep in salt water....if I got another one it would be a Load Rite galvanized roller but with Kodiak brakes.... |
Author: | Architectdave [ Wed Oct 07, 2009 7:08 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Virtual trailer build |
Everytime I put in or take out I wonder why people hate the FW trailers so much? I have no complaints about my gator hide FW trailer. Only thing I would do differant is asked for a two axle trailer instead of the single but still its a great trailer. |
Author: | millhaven_nice_guy [ Wed Oct 07, 2009 8:03 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Virtual trailer build |
Here's a neat system I am considering for the trailer I need to build for the 93 245 Vista ![]() They even make the same system with air ride! |
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