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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 11:29 am 
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Seahorse

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We recently purchased a trailer-less 2004 230 and went trailer shopping. We decided on an Atlantic aluminum I-frame trailer (5,000lb capacity) and have been thrilled with the results. Easy to drive-on and launch. After a just a couple of outings I replaced the winch cable (that had bound a couple of times) with a 5,000lb strap and it has been great.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 12:54 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Very nice! Do you mind giving us an idea of the cost, and how is it equipped (type of lights, brand of hubs & brakes, etc.)?

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2005 Four Winns 230/240
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 9:21 pm 
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Nice looking set up!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 7:26 pm 
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Seahorse

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If I recall correctly it was around $3,400 + a $15 winch strap a couple days later. No idea on the details/brands of brakes and lights - other than that the brakes are hydraulic, on one axle - and the lights look good and are submersible.... :lol: I've had lots of trailers and this appears very well made. Real nice wheels. Lots of positive comments at the ramps. I'm considering guide-on posts for one launch that I use which has a real steep drop off - to prevent the rear from floating around - but not convinced I need it yet.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 7:33 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Just wondering - is it not possible to use the tie-down points on the transom? It seems like having the straps across the hull like that would chafe the gel coat and not hold it down as well.

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2005 Four Winns 230/240
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1998 F-150 XLT
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 7:43 pm 
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Seahorse

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230 Mike wrote:
Just wondering - is it not possible to use the tie-down points on the transom? It seems like having the straps across the hull like that would chafe the gel coat and not hold it down as well.
Yes, it would not only be possible, but would probably be a good idea. I just noticed the lower transom attachment points the other day. :oops: Fortunately I have a home in NH's Lakes Region that is just a few miles from the 3 lakes I use most often, so I don't have to trailer far at all. I haven't even picked up straps for it yet. In the picture I'm using rope tied to the outer points - not the best solution. :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:41 pm 
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Goldfish

Joined: Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:51 pm
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Location: Newbury,NH
That sure is a nice setup. I have a 210 I tow with a Tundra too.
In your picture the trailer appears to be substantially shorter than the boat. On mine the trailer is long enouph that the tie-downs drop strait down and forward a little with no contact with the transom. At such a long horizontal run between anchor points, that puts a lot of stress on the straps.
Most people figure that a boat weighs so much, where could it go? When you're rolling down the road and hit a good bump, the straps are really holding the trailer to the boat as opposed to holding the boat down. In fact, if you could lift the rear of the boat I bet you'd be surprised at how much verticle movement you'd have before the straps started working, simply because of the distance and angles. I even put a bow strap on mine. It goes straight down to the trailer so the winch is only used for loading.
Anyway, you got a nice setup there and it would be a real shame to have it messed up.
BTW, I'm usually on Sunapee but occasionally get out to Winnisquam, where I bought the boat.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 2:19 pm 
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The Real Dr.Evil
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Location: Greensburg PA
nhlakes wrote:
We recently purchased a trailer-less 2004 230 and went trailer shopping. We decided on an Atlantic aluminum I-frame trailer (5,000lb capacity) and have been thrilled with the results. Easy to drive-on and launch. After a just a couple of outings I replaced the winch cable (that had bound a couple of times) with a 5,000lb strap and it has been great.

Image


The trailer is too short for the boat, reguardless of what the capacity is rated at. I am not sure why it is so common place for dealers of I Beam trailers to sell you so short. The I Beams should be as long as the LOA of the boat not including the tongue. In your current setup you have bunk boards hanging off the back of the trailer which are supporting the heaviest part of the boat (the transom). Those boards should stop at the end of the I Beams and should be fully supported by the crossmembers.

Just my $0.02

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 9:33 am 
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Brett248Vista wrote:
... I am not sure why it is so common place for dealers of I Beam trailers to sell you so short. ....

I-beam trailers are becoming more popular. If there were in fact a problem with their design, I suggest that it would be the manufacturers fault, not the dealers. This is how they are designing trailers. Also, recognize that on the 230/240 the transom is well ahead of the back of the boat. I'm vacationing in SC right now, so I cannot run out in measure it, but there is probably a couple of feet+ of swim platform behind the transom.

I trust that the trailer manufacturers selected and recommended by my large and very well established dealer know how manufacturer trailers. And I trust that if there were a problem my dealer would help me out.

I've had trailered boats for around 20 years and have trailers boats up and down the east coast many times. I'm not concerned - but like with anything else, time will tell. :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 12:25 pm 
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The Real Dr.Evil
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Location: Greensburg PA
Hey,

Good luck with that...

If you trust the dealer that much, then I guess there isn't a problem and I won't say another word about it. I was just trying to save you from possible issues.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 2:30 pm 
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Nhlakes,

Don't take offense to what anyone has to say about your nice new trailer. Everyone here is looking out for each other, and isn't looking to flame you over it. This is a good forum, and the guys (including Brett) here are pretty knowledgeable. It sounds like you are, too, so hopefully that means you'll be a good contributor to this forum. Having said that, I also had the same concerns when I saw the pic of your trailer the first time.

However, I do see your point in that the engine, bilge, traditional "transom area", and gimbal housing are all a few feet in front of the swim deck. While it looks a little weird at first glance, it does appear that the bunks' ends do actually end just beneath the transom and therefore would seem to support the weight.

Have one question, though. Aren't there a couple more hooks next to the gimbal ring on the outside of the transom that you could use for your tie-downs? My 220 has them, but I'm not sure if that was new in 2007 or not. If so, I'd suggest using those instead of the hooks on the very aft end.

BTW, I love the boat's color scheme.

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2007 Four Winns Horizon 220
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 4:55 pm 
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The Real Dr.Evil
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Location: Greensburg PA
It's a shame that I try to help someone avoid a potential catastrophic failure and instead I am greeted with a response that makes it look like I was trying to flame.

Ok let's go over some facts here..

I am well aware of where the "real" transom line is on your boat. And if you look at your boat sitting on the trailer where it is right now, your "real transom" (not the pods) are hanging off the ends of the I Beams. Which means the transom is only being supported by cypress or wulmanized bunk boards, not the trailer crossmembers. Now I am not an engineer but I do know that wood warps and sags, wetted wood especially so.

So here you have a boat's more critical area being supported by only bunk boards, that may in time develop a downward sag. So what happens when the boards sag? The hull will develop a hook, which will effect the performance and handling of the boat and could even cause fractures in the gelcoat or go even deeper into the stringer to transom joint.

Now let's move onto the weight of the boat and the capacity of the trailer. You stated the trailer is listed to handle 5000Lb capacity. Four Winns has the 07 240 dry weight listed as 4230LBS now bear in mind that a manufacturers dry weight is OFTEN very conservative. Your boat also has a fuel capacity of 58 gallons. Gasoline weighs in at 6.25 Lbs @ 72 Degrees Farenheight. That comes out to 362.5 Lbs of fuel load (full tank) which brings the total boat weight up to 4592.50 Lbs.

That sure does not leave much room for "stuff" and of that, "stuff" even includes factory options like a dual battery setup (which adds another 55Lbs for the second battery).

It is, and will continue to be, my "personal" opinion that you was sold too small of a trailer. It's an absolutely GORGEOUS trailer! But it's too small, no matter how good it looks.

In my opinion the rails of the trailer should be at least 2 foot longer if not four feet, and the capacity should be 6K not 5K.

But at the end of the day, I don't know much since I haven't trailer a boat up and down the east coast many times... Just all the way across the country.

You can take my post for what it's worth, or you can make of it what you will. I am not here to be an A-Hole, nor am I here to throw insults. I think you have a gorgeous boat, and a gorgeous trailer, I just beleive you need a bigger trailer, that's all!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 9:56 pm 
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it actually looks as if the rear bunk is about 3 inches longer than the hull?
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 2:52 pm 
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Seahorse

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Wow - sensitive folks in here... :lol:

No offense taken and no offense implied... I wasn't trying to flame - was just blasting a quick response suggesting I was not concerned - and did not mean to ruffle feathers... sorry if I came across that way...

going back on vacation... :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 7:57 am 
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Seahorse

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OK, with this morning's outside temperatures in the 40's :shock: in NH's Lakes Region, have a few mins to comment on a few posts...

230 Mike wrote:
Just wondering - is it not possible to use the tie-down points on the transom? It seems like having the straps across the hull like that would chafe the gel coat and not hold it down as well.

When I got back from SC yesterday my tie-downs had arrived, so the boat is now secured properly. And yes, he tie-downs do touch the gel-goat at the lowest point of the transom. I'll keep an eye out for any potential chafing, but I'm honestly not concerned.

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