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| New trailer, how to take care of it? https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=8613 |
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| Author: | ric [ Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | New trailer, how to take care of it? |
I finally threw away my original four winns painted trailer (got $100 for it yesss!) and picked up a new 2800lb galvanized trailer with a swing tongue. It's not quite as long and JUST barely fits the H180 length wise which is what I wanted. The original trailer's tongue stuck out 4ft past the dang parking spot and wasn't swing. People hated me. Will it be harder to tow? yes... but I only leave my lake to wash the hull. What is the best way to keep this one looking like new for years to come? It's going to be stored outside. Wheel covers to protect the rubber? Is there something I can do with the metal that isn't galvanized? 90% of the bolts/ubolts are cadmium plated but a few here and there are not. On my motorcycle we swear by something called "chain wax" and it's a sticky lube. I'm thinking it will work wonders on most of the parts. |
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Tue Nov 15, 2011 11:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: New trailer, how to take care of it? |
Yeah some kind of wax, reapplied often, you might compare the chain lube to LPS-3. If I had a new trailer with non-stainless fasteners though, I'd start by changing them to stainless because anything less may be a disappointment in salt. Cover the tires for sure. |
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| Author: | EvilZ [ Tue Nov 15, 2011 1:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: New trailer, how to take care of it? |
The benefit of galvanized trailers is that although they are kind of ugly when they are new, they dont get any worse looking as time goes on....unlike painted trailers. I agree with Mike - replace any hardware, or take care of it when it comes out of salt, cover the tires and you should be good for years. |
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| Author: | EvilZ [ Tue Nov 15, 2011 1:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: New trailer, how to take care of it? |
And I wouldn't buy anything except a galvanized trailer with salt water boating! |
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| Author: | ric [ Tue Nov 15, 2011 2:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: New trailer, how to take care of it? |
I never hit salt, but here in Florida we're always 90% humidity with burn your skin in 5 minute UV rays 300 days out of the year. My original painted trailer that never saw salt was crumble in your hands rusted only 11 years old. |
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| Author: | LouC [ Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: New trailer, how to take care of it? |
Ric I have an old galvanized trailer used in salt water. I rebuilt much of it, replacing the axle, springs, spring mounts, adding brakes, putting on a longer tongue. I have found that spraying all the ubolts/nuts with Corrosion X or even Corrosion X HD, helps them not to corrode. I smeared OMC triple guard grease on the springs, then sprayed them with Corrosion X HD. I also rinse the trailer with water after each use. It goes into salt maybe 6 times per season. This has keep the springs and ubolts pretty rust free. I have a neighbor who bought a new boat with a new Venture trailer, at the same time I rebuilt mine. Hers has a lot of corrosion on the springs, and ubolts/nuts on the trailer. I spray everything like 2x a year. I also grease the hubs (super lube hubs) to flush out the old grease 2x a year to check for water. Finally I even found a way to make drum brakes last in salt water, if you have brakes and want to know, ask away! |
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| Author: | ardy [ Fri Dec 23, 2011 2:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: New trailer, how to take care of it? |
LouC wrote: Finally I even found a way to make drum brakes last in salt water, if you have brakes and want to know, ask away! Okay you have my attention???? |
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| Author: | LouC [ Fri Dec 23, 2011 5:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: New trailer, how to take care of it? |
I take off the wheel cylinder and remove the rubber boot. Then I coat the sides and end of the metal piston with synthetic brake grease. Next I fill the inside of the boot with the same grease, and then seal the boot to the cylinder with high temp RTV and also where the pushrod goes through the boot. That keeps water out of the wheel cylinder. I also grease the adjuster with OMC triple guard grease and also all the pivot points. Doing this keeps them from seizing up. Disc brakes can seize up too, it just takes longer. I like drum brakes because they are self energizing and release quicker than discs because of the return springs. Because of the self energizing feature of drums they work better at lower actuator hydraulic pressures than disc brakes. This makes them work better than discs on lighter trailers. |
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