www.iFourWinns.com

Even though my boat is an 08', I bought it new in the summer of 09', not even 3 years ago. I have an issue where one of my four turbo lube hubs won't stay filled with oil, it just runs out the back side. Obviously I have a bad seal... but when I called tie down engineering they told that although parts are available, they are phasing the turbo lube out and replacing it with a new new model called the vortex. So I asked them about getting parts like a new seal or a new hub because I live in a rural area. There isn't anyone around that can fix it for me and I can't tow it 100-200 miles in its current condition and they (tie down) proceeds to tell me I need to find out the reason why it blew. They stated it probably blew because the pressure was too high and I need to find out why. They stated I need to check my brake actuator and my brake lines. Does this make sense? I didn't think the brakes (I have surge disk brakes) had anything to do with the wheel hub and seals...

They did tell me the seal I should be able to get at a local autoparts store, I've just never messed with hubs or seals although I am pretty mechanically inclined. How hard of a job is this and what tools are needed?

Any input or suggestions?

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2008 FW F204 - 5.0 VP "Stand On It"
Former Boat: Larson 186 LXI - 4.3 VP

Thats not good, those are those are the same hubs as mine.

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2011 SL242 5.7 VP GXi - 320 HP Dual Prop

Brake and brake pads as well as disk should be checked for vibration which is one of cause of seal failure. (and eventually bearing)
If I say this I would open up a can of worms and someone will disagree with me but I always balance trailer wheels/tire so reduce vibration which could cause seals and bearings failure.
I had very good luck with our car haulers ever since I started to balance wheels/tires on trailer. (I had a numbers of issues with bearing before) Therefor I do same thing to our boat trailer… Other thing we need to be careful on oil bath hub for a boat trailer is to make sure not to put trailer onto cold water when bearing is still hot after long distance tow… We usually wait for a while after tow before we put trailer on water and launch our boat. Oil bath has air inside of bath and sudden cool down with water will have a risk of seal breakage. This could resulting water enter inside of oil bath. I had issue with one of the seal on first year and I believe it caused by putting hot (warm) trailer into cold water. I have changed seals every 2 years just to be on safe side… Our dealer takes care of this job but is not hard to do it yourself.

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08 H260 VP 8.1Gi DP.....Previous
2013 Crownline E6 Merc 8.2MAG BIIIX, DTS/SC

That is very good advice about waiting., and I noticed the same thing about putting in hot hubs into the water right away. My caps would come loose, and I'd have to retighten them if I did that. My trailer tires are balanced as well. That also smoothed out the ride in the truck, it didn't feel so "lumpy" for lack of a better term.

<edit> Nice tow vehicles, I saw your posts over on iboats in the "what do you tow with thread"

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2011 SL242 5.7 VP GXi - 320 HP Dual Prop

Now that I think about it.. seems like this particular hub had been very slowly losing oil. Its just this time after sitting for 5 months over the winter there was no oil left in the hub and it had never done that before. I took it all apart and the bearings and spindle look like new...the seal looks good too. I did notice after pulling the cotter pin out the nut that holds the hub on was barely even hand tight when it should be 10lbs I believe. I put it all back together, tightened it up correctly and refilled with oil. I'll keep an eye on it and see if it starts leaking again... if it does I may just replace the whole hub as I'm not sure how easy it will be to find a seal around here.

I had to pull the brake disk and calipers off and I didn't see any issues... nothing that would make this one hub fail but not the other three.

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2008 FW F204 - 5.0 VP "Stand On It"
Former Boat: Larson 186 LXI - 4.3 VP

i had a seal start leaking on the garage floor last spring. I took the wheel off and then the hub and took the seal out. Drove down to the locaal auto parts store (O'Reilly's) and they cross refereneced the seal. I bought 4 and replaced all of them at the same time. Took the time to clean out the hubs and bearings while I had them off the trailer. I haven't had a problem with them since.

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Tanker Toad
NKAWTG..N!!
2008 H220 SS
2008 Chevy Silverado 4x4
2010 Tahoe LT 4x4

Well I checked it again this morning and all the oil had ran out again. I took the hub off again and this time I pulled the seal out. I didn't know it but its a double lipped seal with a stainless steel tension spring... and I discovered when I pulled the seal out the spring had broke. I bought a new seal and replaced it and so far so good... I bought 3 additional seals so I can replace the other 3 when I get a chance.

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2008 FW F204 - 5.0 VP "Stand On It"
Former Boat: Larson 186 LXI - 4.3 VP

The wheel bearings on your trailer should have 0 preload on them. Snug the nut down slightly spin the wheel, then loosen the nut until you can feel a slight bit of "play" side to side on the tire/wheel, then tighten just until that play is gone. If need be, error on the side of caution on looser than tighter by one flat of the nut.

My .02

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Jeff

'14 Cruisers 380 Express "Simon Sez"
Merc 8.2 Mag MPI 380
DTS B3X, (x2) Axius Premier


(SOLD)
'08 V318
Merc 350 Mag MPI 300
DTS Seacore, B3 (x2)

Four Wins trailers are known for this very problem....that's why they are phasing the oil bath system out...my 08 was doing same thing after I got it home from Dallas in 2010......my dealer mailed me replacement'seals that weekend but they are still in my tool box. The mechanic at the dealership told me to pull the caps and drain out the oil....then replace with heavier low unit oil (not the synthetic)...the exact same seals that were leaking have not leaked a drop since.

I also will add...I feel the hubs pretty much at every stop and they have always been cool as a cucumber.

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http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o71 ... wqm355.jpg


08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi

Also they sell a clear cap so u can see that you have oil in there.

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http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o71 ... wqm355.jpg


08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi

To me this idea was like a question that didn't need to be asked, how many years have cars, trucks and trailers had tapered roller bearings lubed by grease, since like the 20's? It works and just requires a bit of maintenance. Yes a hypoid gear oil probably lubricates bearings better than grease, but only if it stays IN the hub! If you want a relatively trouble free system, use an axle that has Tie Down style Super Lube hubs, that lets you do regular greasing and better yet to inspect the old grease coming out. I've had one for 8 years on my old trailer, all I have had to do is grease it 1x a year and that is really only to check that water has not gotten in.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

So I have one rear seal leaking. Talked to Tie down, part number for the seals for the 6 lug 3000lb hub is 81166 (bulk) or 11086 (OE). The ID is 2 1/4"
I can't seem to find these anywhere, its a triple lip seal, anyone replace theirs? Tell me where I can buy them

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2011 SL242 5.7 VP GXi - 320 HP Dual Prop

I bought my last set of OEM triple lip seals from http://www.theoempartsstore.com

Cost is about $8/seal... good luck!

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2008 H220 Frenzy - 5.7L VP SX Drive
2013 Tahoe LTZ Tow Vehicle (admiral's ride)
2011 Ford F150 XLT Ecoboost Tow Vehicle

Take a good look at the surface on the spindle that the seal rides on. Any roughness, nicks or corrosion can cause this problem. This is why grease is better, it is more tolerant of imperfect sealing surfaces than oil because it is so much thicker than oil. In addition to checking the sealing surface, and balancing trailer tires, also make sure that your bearings are adjusted correctly. Too much free play can set up a vibration that can cause seal leaks. I have found that since these old style bearings are not used on most vehicles any longer nor have been for years, many people do not know the right way to set bearing pre-load. For us old timers, this was a standard part of a brake job on the front of any rear drive vehicle or on the rear of some front drive vehicles. Especially with front drum brakes (now really going back in time) you had to take it all apart just to get the drum off to change the shoes etc.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

To answer one of the OP's questions - the reason FW told you to inspect all those other components is that if you have a caliper sticking (due to the caliper itself, a malfunctioning actuator, etc.), the brakes can/will overheat which will cause pressure to build up inside the hub, potentially blowing out the seal.

That would be a very real possibility if not for the fact that you found the broken seal spring. If I had oil bath hubs the first thing I'd do is replace the caps with the clear ones (if you haven't already). I have to be honest, those oil bath hubs make me a little nervous.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic