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 Post subject: "proper" oil change?!
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 3:30 pm 
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Sting Ray
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
Well now that my starter/dead battery wild goose chase has had me remove the engine housing (which had previously never occurred to me), I realize I may be able to get some kind of catch can, drip pan under the engine in the bilge area and possibly have that drain in to a hose that I route out the drain (boat plug) hole into an oil can. This would allow me to change the oil in a more traditional way like a car or truck, rather than mess with a pump. Has anyone tried this, was anyone successful?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2019 1:50 pm 
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Even if you performed this mod, it would likely make it even harder for you to change the oil with the engine in place. Getting the full pan out once filled could prove challenging.

If you don't have one already, make sure you get the extraction pump (moeller style) where the pump holds all your oil (I think i have an 8Liter one)... this will make oil changes super easy and mess free.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2019 3:17 pm 
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Sting Ray
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I don't mean to collect the oil in the boat, under the engine. The tray under the engine would have an open drain to the hose that would go through the drain at the bottom center of the hull. The oil would then pour in to a catch can on the ground, under the outdrive.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2019 9:15 am 
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I'd be curious to see how much oil is left in the pan after sucking it through the dipstick versus draining the oil through the plug, the attachment method of the dipstick to the pan on my engine makes me think that there really won't be much of old oil left.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2019 9:44 am 
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A few year ago I purchase a Jabsco hand pump by recommendations on here. It works Great. It really doesn't take many pumps to suck up 20 quarts I have in both engines especially if the oil is warm. The real mess is changing the filter that sits upside down, stupid design. What a mess...

Even if you use the drain plug you aren't getting every last drop out. There will always be some in the oil passage ways, stuck to walls, and in valleys. If you run the engine prior to the oil change you should get most of the contaminants out. The filter will handle most of that too. Keep it simple. Using a quality oil and filter is more important than getting every last drop out.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2019 10:31 am 
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>I don't mean to collect the oil in the boat, under the engine. The tray under the engine would have an open drain to the hose that would go through the drain at the bottom center of the hull. The oil would then pour in to a catch can on the ground, under the outdrive.

Interesting idea, as long as it didn't require getting under the engine to turn a plug or connect a hose every time. I think that would kill it for me. I have a hard enough time getting to the water drain plugs in the block in my boat. I guess if you drilled a second hole next to your drain plug for an oil drain w/permanent high heat hose, you would not have to do much of anything to drain the oil. It'd be easier than draining a car. But if something were to go wrong while boating (disconnection) you'd be in trouble.

I agree there will always be a decent amount of oil that you can't get out even having a drain plug.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2019 12:39 pm 
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Trying to do it that way, is apt to make a huge mess and when you get oil in the bilge...if your bilge pump kicks on...and pumps out an oil slick...you can get fined by the CG/police...get a good vacuum pump...use the garden hose adapter if your dipstick has one...and just suck it out. I use a Topsider and it does a good job. While there may be some oil still in the bottom of the pan if you look under the valve covers of my engine it is CLEAN, even when I took it apart due to bad head gaskets (except the milky oil). This engine had nothing but vacuum pump oil changes and it had not even a hint of sludge inside.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/d0wisrd7z8xjn ... p.JPG?dl=0

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 10:55 am 
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I've had a couple of these and finally ended up with a Mityvac 7400 Fluid Evacuator 7.3 Liter Capacity and I love it. I spent twice that on an electric pump but now I use this one for my boat, tractor, lawn mower and it's seriously no mess. Like Lou said you're not leaving enough residual oil to worry about it.

The electric pump on top of a bucket was always tipping and difficult to get in the proper spot in my bilge. This pump will slide in and is actually pretty stable.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2019 3:40 pm 
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I know this is a month old thread...but in agree to go with manual vacuum pump and dipstick tubing. If concerned about the little oil left behind, simply pour some fresh oil...about half quart...and keep vacuum pumping it out.

Much easier than jacking with pan and tube fished out bilge plug. I will say I've used this vacuum pump for all my equipment and recycle is clean and easy.

My boat engine oil..I use synthetic...is so clear you have to use cheaters to see it on the stick.....once it starts getting to where I can see color it's time to change it.

I have extra tubing so I dont even put the pump in the boat. It sits on ground and as its pumping I swap the filter and sip a beer. Then refill and job is done. I do have rag handy to stop drips from the tube but that's simple. My pain is getting filter wrench on fuel filter due to tight spacing.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 11:08 am 
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The trick with vacuum oil changers is to use the bigger hose that connects to the garden hose adapter threads on the end of the oil dipstick tube if you engine is set up that way. Make sure to put a gasket in the cap of the screw on adapter on your hose, that will maintain the vacuum and the larger hose used will allow the oil to pumped out much faster.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 8:20 am 
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You could try something like this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uk46vCOGTFI&t=5s

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