www.iFourWinns.com

since my stern drive has a seawater pump for engine cooling, and I am tired of burning up impellers prematurely by running dry for a minute to dry water from engine, is there something I could flush the block with that would prevent rust?

I considered running antifreeze through it via the "fakealake" but I would have to remember to thoroughly rinse it with fresh water before taking to the lake, so this is not an ideal method.

Any other ideas?

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wakeskate and wakeboard with no boat?!-
http://www.phoenixwinch.com

1994 Freedom 170
OMC Cobra (by Volvo Penta) 3.0L

DON'T DO IT!
Whoever told you to do that was not your friend! (or only owned a jet ski)

I would never run dry for a minute. It won't get much water out of the engine anyway, and will definitely burn up impellers. Only way to get the water out is to remove hoses and open drain plugs (look up "winterization" here).

If you run in salt water, you want to flush with fresh water if possible (on a hose, or in a lake). If you run in fresh water, you just leave the water in it. You only drain the water out for winterization (to prevent frozen water damage to the block).

Ray

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

You might be able to rig a flush kit system. The newer volvos had them. My 5.7 has a hose capped off in the engine compartment. You shut the engine off after use, attach a hose and idle the engine for a bit and it will flush the salt water out. Not really sure how well it works because you can't really tell whats going on with it. This is if you are slipped and not trailering.
If you trailer just hook up ear muffs on the drive and flush it that way. Never run an engine dry for any period of time.

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--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson

Considering that he's in Phoenix AZ, he is running in Fresh Water, not Salt Water. No need to try to get the water out of the engine except when preparing for freezing weather.

_________________

"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

yeah, freeze is not even on my radar (can you imagine), but I hate seeing rusty water come out after its been sitting for awhile

_________________
wakeskate and wakeboard with no boat?!-
http://www.phoenixwinch.com

1994 Freedom 170
OMC Cobra (by Volvo Penta) 3.0L

It is a fact of life with a raw water cooled engine. Want to see rust, go to a salt water region. If you do not use your boat at all in the winter season, then at the end of your season, drain the water manually and fill the engine and exhaust manifold with marine antifreeze that has corrosion inhibitors. That, other than having closed cooling, is about the best you can do.

PS think about what rust is....Fe O2, iron oxide, you need to have oxygen to have rust, so draining out the water leaves dampness and adds oxygen. You'd actually have less rust if you left the water in, keeps out air.

You should never dry start any engine that uses a rubber impeller!

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II