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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 9:58 am 
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Sting Ray
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Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 5:22 pm
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
since my stern drive has a seawater pump for engine cooling, and I am tired of burning up impellers prematurely by running dry for a minute to dry water from engine, is there something I could flush the block with that would prevent rust?

I considered running antifreeze through it via the "fakealake" but I would have to remember to thoroughly rinse it with fresh water before taking to the lake, so this is not an ideal method.

Any other ideas?

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 12:42 pm 
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
supermanotorious wrote:
since my stern drive has a seawater pump for engine cooling, and I am tired of burning up impellers prematurely by running dry for a minute to dry water from engine, is there something I could flush the block with that would prevent rust?

...Any other ideas?

DON'T DO IT!
Whoever told you to do that was not your friend! (or only owned a jet ski)

I would never run dry for a minute. It won't get much water out of the engine anyway, and will definitely burn up impellers. Only way to get the water out is to remove hoses and open drain plugs (look up "winterization" here).

If you run in salt water, you want to flush with fresh water if possible (on a hose, or in a lake). If you run in fresh water, you just leave the water in it. You only drain the water out for winterization (to prevent frozen water damage to the block).

Ray

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Last edited by rpengr on Mon Apr 24, 2017 2:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 2:07 pm 
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You might be able to rig a flush kit system. The newer volvos had them. My 5.7 has a hose capped off in the engine compartment. You shut the engine off after use, attach a hose and idle the engine for a bit and it will flush the salt water out. Not really sure how well it works because you can't really tell whats going on with it. This is if you are slipped and not trailering.
If you trailer just hook up ear muffs on the drive and flush it that way. Never run an engine dry for any period of time.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 2:13 pm 
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Considering that he's in Phoenix AZ, he is running in Fresh Water, not Salt Water. No need to try to get the water out of the engine except when preparing for freezing weather.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 2:49 pm 
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Sting Ray
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
yeah, freeze is not even on my radar (can you imagine), but I hate seeing rusty water come out after its been sitting for awhile

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1994 Freedom 170
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 5:57 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
It is a fact of life with a raw water cooled engine. Want to see rust, go to a salt water region. If you do not use your boat at all in the winter season, then at the end of your season, drain the water manually and fill the engine and exhaust manifold with marine antifreeze that has corrosion inhibitors. That, other than having closed cooling, is about the best you can do.

PS think about what rust is....Fe O2, iron oxide, you need to have oxygen to have rust, so draining out the water leaves dampness and adds oxygen. You'd actually have less rust if you left the water in, keeps out air.

You should never dry start any engine that uses a rubber impeller!

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