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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 11:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:40 pm
Posts: 278
You're probably not going to get a lot for a 460.

Most of the marine engine rebuilders get about $2000 for a long block (+core)

If your 460 block is cracked, you may be able to sell most of the parts but if its rusty and damaged, it probably won't worth alot.

You need to make sure that find all the rot in the stringers determine if the transom is rotten. Boats that have had a lot of standing water in the bilge usually have a saturated transom and rotton floors...

You'll find out when you get the engine out and can look close. Make sure you pull the drive first...



Good luck.



Rick

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1987 Four Winns Liberator 211, formerly OMC 460 King Kobra powered, replaced in 2006 by a 1997 Mercruiser 454/Bravo III


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 1:32 pm 
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Guppy

Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 1:07 am
Posts: 9
i was going to replace the block,the internal parts are all in good shape,if i rebuilt it,it would be a complete motor from airfilter to pan with the risers,motor mounts,flywheel,belhousing and whatever else i dont need for the chevy swap.
if i put 1000 in it and get 2000 out,thats 1000 towards the chevy swap,:-)
the motor is out,but the drive is still bolted up to the transom,it was like that when i got it,as far as i can tell,the transom looks ok,ill pull the drive as soon as i have a chance,and look at it again,the engine bay was coated with an epoxy sealler from the factory,it wasnt just fiberglass over wood like some ive seen,where you can still see the wood thru the glass coating,mine looks like yours where its all grey with the sealer on it.
where the stringers were rotted/soft was where the motor mounts bolted to the stringer and under the floors where the ful tank sat,,some of the floors area has soft spots as well but i was planning on replaceing the floors/stringers/from the cubby to the transom,will be a lot of work but ill feel better knowing its all replaced,ill have to get some picture of the area and post them as soon as i find out how to,
what type of plywood/wood and resins did you use to replace your stringers,a local lumber yard(lowes) has marine grade plywood(green tint) and lots of untreated types, and different types of fiberglass resines,i would like to buy localy to save time and money,
they have an elmers fiberglass resin that i use a lot and its not all that expensive,how would i find out if it will work in a marine application.
thanks again for the info and responces,mike


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:40 pm
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I didn't have to replace any wood in mine. I was lucky and nothing was rotted.

A good place to discuss that would be here : http://forums.iboats.com/forumdisplay.php?f=22

The Mark Twains had a real bad rotten floor/stringer problem too so go to : http://www.marktwainboats.org/phpBB3/vi ... f407641f12

There's several people that have replaced all the stringers and floor on the MarkTwain site. It would be good to talk to a few people there and on iBoats who have done it....It might save you some time and money.

I did the re-glass work in my bilge area using MAS epoxy http://www.masepoxies.com/public/

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1987 Four Winns Liberator 211, formerly OMC 460 King Kobra powered, replaced in 2006 by a 1997 Mercruiser 454/Bravo III


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:28 pm 
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Guppy

Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 1:07 am
Posts: 9
ill check them out,i just bought a fiberglass boat repair book at barnes and noble,i ordered it a week ago,it has a lot of info in it,ill sit down and read thru it more over the next few days.
i looked at the marine grade plywood at lowes today and i wasnt impressed by it,there 3/4 inch was only 5 layers thick and seemed cheaply laminated,they also had a 7 layer fir plywood that was lighter and seems much stronger.but its not treated,guess ill be stopping by the boat shop here in town and see what they use tomarro,
thanks again,mike


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