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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 3:08 pm 
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Goldfish
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Ric is talking like im the first guy to put speakers and leds in his boat..This is my first install guys EVER! With the help of my friend the audio expert Bob. Probly couldnt of done all this by myself. I Added a house battery with the blue seas battery switch and charging relay. Gonna put a blue top optima to the test. Wont have my leds running all the time and i wont be blaring my stereo all day. Might i have to add another battery?...Maybe...But i can do that in the future no big deal. Might have not thought of everything. For my first install of speakers and Leds its looking pretty awesome! Its been alot of work and cant wait till its done.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 4:38 pm 
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You're doing a sterling job, mate. 8)
The interwebz is full of trolls & you'll learn to ignore the serial trollers.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 8:38 am 
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Very nice system. Hope I can add even 1/2 of that to our boat someday.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 10:54 am 
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Thanks fellas...the easiest and cheapest thing is the leds..without the rings i probly only spent $200 in leds with wire and controller..solderd and wire them myself.. My first time to ever solder..anyone can do it..Ebay has 5 meter led rolls for $25..check it out..

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 3:16 am 
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The Leds look great and the speakers as well, I am going to show some of these pictures to the Admiral and see if she wants me to do the same on my 220. Thanks for the pics they are really really nice and thanks also for the led on the cheap idea. Keep the pictures coming...


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 8:03 am 
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Dentguy wrote:
Ric is talking like im the first guy to put speakers and leds in his boat..This is my first install guys EVER! With the help of my friend the audio expert Bob. Probly couldnt of done all this by myself. I Added a house battery with the blue seas battery switch and charging relay. Gonna put a blue top optima to the test. Wont have my leds running all the time and i wont be blaring my stereo all day. Might i have to add another battery?...Maybe...But i can do that in the future no big deal. Might have not thought of everything. For my first install of speakers and Leds its looking pretty awesome! Its been alot of work and cant wait till its done.





one house is probably not going to last you but 2-3 at most hours with the amps..i base this off of a buddy has 6 speakers single amp setup no amps and a blue top and he gets 2-3 play time... i would highly recommend a 2nd house battery.. my setup is with 2 house group 24s and my amp hours are 3/4 draw i should be able to run for 5-6 hours. now this is all theoretical time.. and i have 2 large amps and 2 power hungry subs..

i do like the fact that you have a tower that you can put throw back pods on.. i would love to add a tower in the future.. maybe next season....

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 10:07 am 
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I'm not trolling or being mean, I think the install is awesome!!

I'm just saying in a boat power is limited, hence why you don't see big stereo installs in boats. Those are twin Polk 4000.4's right? Turned up, those draw at a bare minimum 100 amps each. So now you're talking a 200 amp power draw. Plus the head unit, plus whatever else is on the stereo install. So let's keep things round at 200ah draw.

Optima Blue Top (the most expensive lowest rated deep cycle ever made). If it's the D31M model, it's 75ah. If it's the D27M it's 66ah. If it's the D34M it's 55ah. Since they are lead acid, you can only safely draw 50% of their rated capacity to avoid damage. So hopefully you have the D31M. Half of 75 amp hours is 38 amp hours of available power.

38 available amp hours divided by a 200 amp hour draw = Under 15 minutes until battery damage starts to occur. Under 30 until it's flat dead. You'd be better off with an AGM style battery for sure.

Other than that? It gets better. The standard marine alternator is only 70 amps. What does that mean? You will drain your battery dead even when the engine is running with the stereo at full blast in under an hour. Since they are class D amps you might get 2-3 turned down.

But wait, there's more...

That kind of strain on an alternator will indeed cause it to fail, and fail horribly. Most of the time they catch on fire as my friends did on his boat 2 weeks ago. You're going to say... but wait, a shop is doing the install they are professionals why would they do this? Well... because you're paying them to. That's why.

On my Stingray I had two Cerwin Vega 350w Class D amps. With both on (subwoofer), battery time was around 1 hours tops on an interstate 75ah dual purpose. Subwoofer off, radio turned down low? 2-3 hours. That's why I'm not installing an amp on my new boat.

Food for thought.... The marine AC I'm installing only draws 50 amps on a 12v 225ah AGM battery bank that costed $125 (two 6V)

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 4:18 pm 
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ric wrote:
Those are twin Polk 4000.4's right? Turned up, those draw at a bare minimum 100 amps each.


How on earth did you work that out?! :?
The dude won't consistantly be playing test tones on his boat!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 6:13 pm 
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deafwish wrote:
ric wrote:
Those are twin Polk 4000.4's right? Turned up, those draw at a bare minimum 100 amps each.


How on earth did you work that out?! :?
The dude won't consistantly be playing test tones on his boat!


How did I figure? 1400w amp at 12v = 116 amps.


More speakers = higher amp draw. 12.4v engine off instead of 14 engine on = more amps. 200a draw for his system is very conservative. Any honest audio shop wouldn't have done this install. It won't work.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:04 pm 
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I'm sure you are aware that an amp' will VERY rarely supply anywhere near it's full capacity of wattage, while playing music?!
Get your hands on a clamp meter and test the current draw when your sound system is up loud.
You will be very surprised at how little it will draw.

p.s. The amount of speakers has nothing to do with current draw. Impedance has everything to do with current draw. Google it.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 11:29 pm 
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deafwish wrote:
I'm sure you are aware that an amp' will VERY rarely supply anywhere near it's full capacity of wattage, while playing music?!
Get your hands on a clamp meter and test the current draw when your sound system is up loud.
You will be very surprised at how little it will draw.

p.s. The amount of speakers has nothing to do with current draw. Impedance has everything to do with current draw. Google it.



1400 watts is 1400 watts no matter how you look at it. Being class D it's near 90% efficient in turning that 14.5v into speaker noise, but power doesn't come out of thin air. In fact, class D amps only become 90% efficient at near max levels. At low volumes at like let's say something you can talk over... 500w output, it might only be 50% efficient, so you're still using 1000w of power. At ear bleeding volumes it might be using 1600w. At whisper levels (200w output) it's even worse, so you might be drawing a total of 500w. So times that by two you're still over 1000w, or 50a draw. Lower the voltage to 12v when the engine isn't running it's even worse. That number might go up to 55-60a draw for two 1400w amps at quiet levels. Or under 30 minutes of radio.

I'm sure it will sound awesome for a few minutes. Awesome project but it doesn't have the power supply to run it. This wouldn't even work in a car without a massive alternator upgrade. In the car world it's easy... just buy a higher rated one like 200a... but I have yet to find a marine rated 200-250a Alternator.

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Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 12:28 am 
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What's 1400 watts? :?
It's a 4x 125Wrms amp'.
Oh & how can it draw "a bare minimum of 100 amps each", when it is only fused (you'll never blow this with correct impedance!) for 75 amps TOTAL? :roll:

I'm not intentionally trying to contradict everything you say on here, but you're coming up with some crazy stuff! :lol: :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 12:14 pm 
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The Polk audio 4000.4 is 800rms, 1400w peak. You can peak past fuse rating. I'm going by max specs because that's how you do it. If you want to go by RMS spec that's still 67 amp draw. Times two. So that's 134 amps plus radio and whatever else. Math is math. The boat has a 70 amp alternator. Hes drawing twice what he's producing. Done.

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Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 12:14 pm 
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The Polk audio 4000.4 is 800rms, 1400w peak. You can peak past fuse rating. I'm going by max specs because that's how you do it. If you want to go by RMS spec that's still 67 amp draw. Times two. So that's 134 amps plus radio and whatever else. Math is math. The boat has a 70 amp alternator. Hes drawing twice what he's producing. Done.

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2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
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Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:42 pm 
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I feel like I am watching a free-style rap battle. Have to say, both arguments are totally convincing, then again, I am not a sound technician, just at mathematician. Which one of these guys is speaking the truth??

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