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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 7:16 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
An ATC fuse (as used in amplifiers) is NOT a slow blow fuse. If you exceed it's rated current, it will blow almost instantaniously.
You would safely need 0 AWG cable to safely transmit the amperage you have 'calculated'. The amp' only has previsions for 4 AWG (60A PT).
To educate me, please perform your mathematical calculations as to how long my 1KWrms, 2KWPMPO Monoblock will operate from my 550CCA/ 690 MCA battery. :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 8:26 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 6:59 pm 
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Dolphin

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Where did you find those zip ties with the screws? Also, how about those speaker rings? I'm doing an install very soon.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 11:00 pm 
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Goldfish
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Location: Arlington,Texas
Zip ties you can get at any hardware store. I got my speaker rings at a local stereo shop. Just the rings and i put my own leds to save alittle money. You can also find them online.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 11:24 pm 
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Goldfish
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New pics. Install is done. Putting everything back together. More pics when I'm done.
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Not exactly where i wanted this EQ but didnt have a lot of options.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 8:36 am 
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looking good which WS EQ is that.. any shots of the rear inputs...???

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 1:19 pm 
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schoolsOut wrote:
I feel like I am watching a free-style rap battle. Have to say, both arguments are totally convincing, then again, I am not a sound technician, just at mathematician. Which one of these guys is speaking the truth??

Ric's math is good, except that an 800rms Amp (or 1400peak) will only output those watts when cranked up really loud, and even then it will only be 1 or 2% of the time when playing music. Only the initial "thump" of a base drum will cause the highest watts. The remainder of the time is only outputting a small fraction of those watts...I don't know the numbers, but would guess less than 10-20% of the "peaks".

If you are engine off, consider turning off the sub-woofers to get vastly more time off the battery. The higher frequencies do not require much power.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 2:55 pm 
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Let's just say for sake of argument that at low levels the amps are only drawing after loss 100w each, or a 200w load. Plus 20 for the head unit. 220 watt total. That's still 18 amps. Safely that's only 1.5 hours on a blue top. On a fuel injected boat that draws nearly 35 amps to run the engine alone, plus gauges, depth, running lights.. you're at close to a 45 amp draw out of 70. A standard stereo takes 4 amps so normally it doesn't matter. At the sake of argument level, 18 amps.. you're consuming 63 out of 70. Just barely enough to keep batteries somewhat charging. Times two batteries that's only 3.5 amps per battery. It would take 10+ hours of running the boat to charge a "dead" blue top (10.5v) after an hour and a half of radio.

Turn the radio up LOUD when the girls (or guys?) want to dance, 65 amps... if that blue top isn't isolated (I think you said it was?) you would be calling sea tow after roughly 45 minutes. I love bad ass stereos but to get this system working correctly will require a battery bank like on my boat for the AC (twin 225a 6v) and a second alternator to charge it (standard 1 wire 70a marine). Not really expensive to do, less than the cost of a polk amp.

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Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 4:43 pm 
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rpengr wrote:
Ric's math is good, except that an 800rms Amp (or 1400peak) will only output those watts when cranked up really loud, and even then it will only be 1 or 2% of the time when playing music. Only the initial "thump" of a base drum will cause the highest watts.


Low frequency test tones 25Hz - 40Hz are the most reliable way to draw consistant (near full load) amperage from your amp/ battery.
Everything else (music) is always a fraction of it's potential output.

* Great end result, dentguy!
Have you done any earth strenghthening on your engine block, from the earth battery terminals?
Host a video of it in action! 8)

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 10:22 pm 
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Goldfish
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Location: Arlington,Texas
More Pics!!!
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Polk sub with aftermarket grill..added Leds to the inside of the grill..
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also added a plug to remove the grills without having to remove the sub..On or off whenever i want
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Under the dash..led and led music controller..
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Remote for Led controller..
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Added Leds inside the cubbys..Workinon the ones for the bench..
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WS-420..I love this thing!!! The talk back feature is awesome!!
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Talk Back...
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All put back together ..
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Customized factory bimini to fit over tower speakers..
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Painted these black with vinyl spray paint. they look alot better than the original brown..
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 11:04 pm 
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Goldfish
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A few more pics later..Posting pics is alittle time consuming.. :D

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:40 am 
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Video???!!! 8) :twisted:

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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 11:56 am 
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Guppy

Joined: Mon Mar 18, 2013 7:17 pm
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Are you happy with the subs in those locations? Does the bass sound good throughout the boat?

Also how did you wire the 8 interior speakers? Are some of those running of the radio amp?


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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 5:48 pm 
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Shark
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Location: North Bay, Ontario, Canada
Holy smokes that is amazing! Great work. Looks fantastic.

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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 5:49 pm 
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deafwish wrote:
Video???!!! 8) :twisted:

Yes! Video!


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