www.iFourWinns.com

Hi Guys,

I am choosing between some 5 channel class D amps for my boat. I have narrowed it down to a FUSION MSDA51600 which I found on Amazon for $351, however they also have a non marine version Fusion Cada51600 for $290. I am going to mount it in my cuddy cabin so do I need a marine version? I was also looking at the alpine marine pdx.500 however it was $429 so I figured it wasn't worth the extra. How are the fusion amps? Do they sound good, and are their output ratings accurate?

I am going to use it to power 4 infinity reference 651's, and a JL Audio M10W5-SG-TB (w5 for enclosures). I have a fusion 700 head unit. Let me know if you would change anything in my setup. I'm trying to stay around $800 budget (already have the head unit), and I'm a little over here, but I could do a little more if there was something worth it. I'm pulling the trigger on it pretty soon to be ready in spring.

p.s. I have a 3 farad cap from when I had a system in my car, should I instal that as well?

The marine version is better due to the dampness of a boat. What kind of boating do you do, as in. Is the boat staying in all year at a slip. Or in the driveway most of the time.

Spend the extra on the PDX, as they are an exceptionally well made unit.
Chuck the cap' on Ebay & use the money towards quality 4 AWG cable for your Alpine.

_________________
2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS

What will be specifically better on the Alpine vs. the Fusion? They spec out about the same, and $70 is a decent amount more. I know my Fusion head unit is awesome. I just haven't heard much about their amps.

I keep it rack stored at the harbor. I also trailer sometimes. There will be a week or two that I have it in a harbor though. I just don't know if I would need a marine version if I had it in the cuddy. I wasn't sure if it was more efficient in the marine version as well.

If the amp is in the cuddy, it's no different than being in the trunk of a car. No "marine" amp needed.

Personally I'd go with either:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_402 ... 900.5.html

Or
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_398 ... 000.5.html

Keep in mind these things draw 75 amps at full power. If you plan on spending a bunch of time hanging out with the engine off I highly suggest running two smaller amps. One for the subwoofer that you can turn off, and one for the speakers. So if you have the standard 4+1 speaker setup it would be better to do something like:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_262 ... DX-F4.html

To drive the full range speakers. Consumes 33 amps at full power. Around 15-20 at reasonable volumes. Will sound amazing driving some good speakers.

And when you want the boom (33 amps).
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_318 ... 400.1.html

66 amps at full power, 33 when off the engine. It's a strain on the system but do-able. I had twin 350w RMS class D on my Stingray and it was a strain, but do-able. Turned up all the way the volt gauge would hover between 13v and 12v, but at non ear bleeding levels it didn't drain when running and would cleanly run at 14.5v. That engine was carb'd. If you're fuel injected the engine draws more amps so available power to the stereo is even less (in the order of around 40 amps total instead of maybe 55 for a carb'd engine.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

If I have the sub channel switched off on my head unit or amp remote, would it still draw power with a class d amp?

Yes. You'd have to ask the manufacturer what the "idle" amp draw is. On a 5 channel, probably pretty high still. With 2 amps putting a switch in the remote lead is a simple task.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

I also have the 700 head & love how it works! I just bought there 4 channel amp and going to install it soon. I was so impressed the 700 I stayed with Fusion! Keep in mind, no matter what you run with you are going to need tinned wire, breaker, lugs and any thing else to complete the install.

You may want to go with a 2nd house battery. Powering the head is one thing, the amp is another.

I went with the Kicker ZX700.5 and have been very happy with it.

_________________
Norris Lake, Stardust Marina, Andersonville, TN
2005 Four Winns 230 Horizon 5.7L Volvo Gi/DP
2001 Maxum 1900SR 5.0L V8 (Sold)
2011 Nissan Armada Platnum

I have 2 separate Alpine PDX amplifiers installed in my boat. Neither are marine. The mono sub amp is a PDX-1.600 and a 4 channel PDX-F4. I have Alpine SPR-M70 component marine speakers and a Boston G2 10" sub. I'm happy with the set up.

_________________

Jeff
2006 H240 6.2 MX 320HP B3
La Habra, California

I looked at the kicker and it's a class a/b. I had a 12L7 that I LOVED, so i would have done the kicker but I am looking for a class D amp. I thought long and hard about the Alpine, however with my choosen sub (JLW5) at 250 watts RMS, and my regular speakers at 75watts RMS, the Alpine is just too strong. The Fusion specs out perfectly for my setup and I have a Fusion head unit that I LOVE, so I think the Fusion wins.

The only thing on my mind now is whether I'm crazy for spending $250 on the JL W5 marine sub when I have a Kicker Solo Baric 12L7 collecting dust in my basement. I think I should get better SQ out of the JL and it would sound better at lower power. Do you guys agree? The 12L7 is marine rated, but is up to 1000watts RMS at 1ohm, and I think I remember seeing it needed 100 watts minimum power, which I think would be too much for the boat. Is there a minimum power to the sub? I think I remember hearing it would be hard on the amp or something...

You can not have an amplifier with too much power, if you set the gains correctly (easy job).
I also has an L712 many years ago & recall that they are in-efficient/ hungry buggers to run.
They get loud, but quality sound reproduction wasn't their strong point.
If it were me, I'd buy the PDX, make a compact enclosure for the L7 (use resin to seal the timber) and see how it sounds.
You can always buy the JL...
Make sure you wire the sub to show the amp a 4ohm load, as 1ohm will send it in to protection mode!

_________________
2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS