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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 5:16 pm 
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Lake Michigan - Unsalted

Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 11:38 pm
Posts: 867
Location: Comstock Park / Grand Haven (Barretts)
Brent, are you getting a PUNCH from the sub or a BOOM (think intercity lowrider) from your setup? I loved my Rockford Fosgate amp and Kicker sub back in the early 90's in my Explorer for the punch it had. I'm not a fan of the Boooooooooooommmmmmmmmmmmm sound.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:43 pm 
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GIDDY UP

Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 3:08 pm
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Location: Tulsa, OK
Kinda depends on what you're listening to. It hits hard "punch" but the low "booooooom" is not pressurizing like in a car.

Don't know if this is the answer to your question.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:31 pm 
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Lake Michigan - Unsalted

Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 11:38 pm
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Location: Comstock Park / Grand Haven (Barretts)
Sure. Your right on the media. Kanye is going to boom, ACDC is going to punch. I guess as long as the sub is controled and you get the sound YOU like, it the important thing.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 3:15 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 4:29 pm
Posts: 19
You bastard.....That looks awesome! Nice work on the install.

I picked up a pioneer amp so i am going to look into that same sub that you got.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 2:28 pm 
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email admin your custom rank

Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 8:57 am
Posts: 471
Just wondering what tool you fellas are using to cut out the larger speaker openings? What kind of template do you use? I was think of using a thin piece of sheet metal cut as a template to prevent an errant cut. Thoughts?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 4:44 pm 
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GIDDY UP

Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 3:08 pm
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Location: Tulsa, OK
The speaker will come with a paper template.
Rotozip has a cool circle cut attachment that keeps you from making an oops.

A good old jigsaw with a metal cutting bit works great. Go slow, follow the line.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 5:16 pm 
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230 Mike
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Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 7:59 pm
Posts: 5141
Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
If it were me, I'd use a cutout tool with the circle attachment and a spiral up-cut bit. Rotozip, Porter Cable, and Bosch (and probably DeWalt) all have them. If you don't have one, follow Mike's First Maintenance Theorem: there is a direct relationship between the number of house and boat projects undertaken, and the number of new tools acquired, in a given period of time. This is a law of nature, and any attempt to violate or circumvent it will result in horrible catastrophes of untold proportion.

Failing that, follow Mike's Second Maintenance Theorem: Carpenter Diem ("Seize the Tools!").

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 9:40 am 
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The Real Dr.Evil
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Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2007 9:35 am
Posts: 1004
Location: Greensburg PA
Fantastic Install!

I only have two minor critiques. I would have used dynamat on the backside of the hull rather than polyfill. Polyfill is actually used to slow the air speed of the backwave which makes the sub "think" like it's in a bigger enclosure (not needed with an IB setup). I would be worried about the polyfill trapping moisture and possibly getting moldy. The other critique is the amp wiring, is it heavy enough? My Kicker 700.0 was beched at 946 watts RMS all channels driven at thier minimum impedances. I installed my 700.5 with 0/4 for the powe and ground, my runs were also almost 30' long so that has an impact on the diameter of cabling used in a DC install.

Good Stuff! I bet it sounds fantstic!

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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2008 1:24 pm 
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Narwhal
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Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:29 am
Posts: 1035
Location: Chicago, IL
I bought that exact same fosgate fuse holder and 50A fuses for my install, but backed away from using them because they are not rated as being ignition protected and my battery is technically in the engine compartment. As long as your fuse is outside of the engine compartment you're good! Very nice install.

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