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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 1:45 pm 
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I plan on the installation of an amp and the replacement of the stock speakers. See here: http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3077
This is the first of many questions I am sure I will have.:mrgreen:

I know you are supposed to use "marine grade" tinned wire to get power to the amp. But what are most of you guys that have done upgrades actually using? I know you can get amplifier installation kits made for cars. Have any of you just used one of those?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 1:48 pm 
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Yes, you can use automotive grade wire.

I have ordered wiring and such from here with great experience. They also have the Stinger marine grade RCAs.

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/

Good prices, good service. I think they also have an eBay presence.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 2:14 pm 
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Must be that time of year, we probably have 4 or 5 active Audio upgrade threads going at one time now. :D

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 9:15 pm 
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cougarcruiser wrote:
Yes, you can use automotive grade wire.

I have ordered wiring and such from here with great experience. They also have the Stinger marine grade RCAs.

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/

Good prices, good service. I think they also have an eBay presence.


+1 on great prices here. I bought all my wiring from them. They have marine grade kits. I went with Stinger wiring for everything.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 8:25 am 
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The difference between automotive and marine wiring will be the heat rating. Generally you want 105C. ABYC publishes guidelines for selecting approprite wire by distance, load, and whether the run is through an engine room. The last thing one should do is go pick up wiring at the local Home Depot, won't even be close. As far as suppliers go, these guys sell marine rated wiring by the foot fairly cheap: http://genuinedealz.com/

They are also a great source for custom battery cables should you decide to add a battery down the road.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 8:47 am 
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Jim_R wrote:
The difference between automotive and marine wiring will be the heat rating. Generally you want 105C. ABYC publishes guidelines for selecting approprite wire by distance, load, and whether the run is through an engine room. The last thing one should do is go pick up wiring at the local Home Depot, won't even be close. As far as suppliers go, these guys sell marine rated wiring by the foot fairly cheap: http://genuinedealz.com/

They are also a great source for custom battery cables should you decide to add a battery down the road.



I had them make some custom length battery cables. All good stuff at good prices. Ends were shrinkwrapped and everything. Good setup, good prices and good shipping.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:16 am 
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KnuKonceptz.com has excellent DIY 12v installation products. Their Flex power wire is marine grade and its unlikely you'll find such a high strand count in any competitive brand name for less $. You can find Knu on eBay too.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 3:50 pm 
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OK, dumb question time. Since it seems to be on point for this thread, I'm asking it here.

Is it absolutely necessary to run the power and the ground directly to the battery? If so, I can accept that. Can I wire into my battery switch instead? Is this the equivalent of directly to the battery when it comes to getting the good connections on the ground to reduce/eliminate engine noise? I understand all of the issues "connected" with doing this, and with never using the "BOTH" position on the selector while anchored if I do it this way. Just asking for connection purposes-I'd like to be able to access either battery for reserve/starting and operation of the amp & stereo to avoid having a battery dedicated to just the amp.

Also, I'm assuming that nobody discusses installing the amp in the engine compartment because of engine heat and the potential for spark in there. Seems completely intelligent to do it that way. Is this correct?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 4:36 pm 
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My amp power is wired into the "common" on my Perko Battery Switch. This way, it drains from whatever battery I am using that day, and is conversely charged when I start the boat just like in a single battery system.

Oh and yes, you hit the 2 factors on the head. Heat buildup is of course a concern, just as the potential for spark. Even though "marine" amps are supposed to be ignition protected, why run the risk?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:03 pm 
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If the amp is wired directly to the battery or perko switch will your amp be powered up until you turn the perko off? Or does it come on with the main unit? Also i have had people mention about going with 2 battery system and an isolator. Is this an option, if so how does it work? What would be the pro's and con's over a perko switch?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 2:35 pm 
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Lee,

If you wire to the Perko, you control power potential to it though the Perko. However, if you hook it up properly using the remote turn-on lead the amp has, the amp will never come on unless the head unit is turned on. So, you could have the Perko on but the radio turned off and the amp will not draw power. Conversely, you would never be able to turn on either the head unit or the amp if the Perko is off.

If you wire directly to the battery, but still hook the amp up properly with the remote turn-on lead, then your only control over whether the amp draws off of the battery is by turning the head unit off. In either scenario, the amp is turned on and drawing power as soon as the head unit is powered up.

Run a google search on the isolator. I think there might even be some good threads on this forum about them. Essentially, a 2-battery system with an isolator AND a Perko is ideal. In this system, you select which battery you want to pull power from using the Perko. In the meantime the isolator directs charging current from the alternator only to the battery that is low on power and requires charging. At the same time, the isolator does not charge any battery that is fully charged. It monitors them and distributes power independently as needed.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 7:00 pm 
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My main amp power is supplied via the Perko. The amp still has the remote turn on lead so it never begins to drain power unless the head unit is turned on.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 9:02 pm 
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This is something I plan to do this year, i.e., wire my power to my perko switch. I have no idea why I didn't do that before. Instead, I had it wired directly to one battery. Plus, I've read on the car audio forums that grounding to the battery isn't the best idea. Apparently, it willl create a little bit of noise. I think I'm going to try and ground mine to the same place that batteries are grounded to if I can get to it. Anyone do that?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 9:00 am 
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I haven't connected to the ground for a stereo install (yet!) but did rework the grounds when I did my battery shuffle/relocate. It's just a 3/8" stud on the back of the motor. All you should need is a 9/16" wrench to remove the nut and then you can place an additioanl ground cable on the stud before replacing the nut. Just be ready with some balnkets for padding because you may have to lay on the motor for access.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 6:26 pm 
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Cincy Aquaholic wrote:
This is something I plan to do this year, i.e., wire my power to my perko switch. I have no idea why I didn't do that before. Instead, I had it wired directly to one battery. Plus, I've read on the car audio forums that grounding to the battery isn't the best idea. Apparently, it willl create a little bit of noise. I think I'm going to try and ground mine to the same place that batteries are grounded to if I can get to it. Anyone do that?

My main amp ground is run to the ground used for the helm fuse block. My amp is mounded in front of the helm so a very easy ground to use.

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