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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 6:38 pm 
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Ok more questions.

Since I plan on upgrading in the future should I go a head and get a kit for 2 amps? Or once I run from the battery can I add the distribution block later? I'll plan to use 4 gauge wire for the run.

Anybody see any problems with grounding to the helm llike 07H200SS? I see tha most of the kits only come with a 4 ft ground wire.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 3:50 pm 
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07H200SS, have you had any engine noise problems in doing that? Everyone says to mount directly to the battery's grounding location to completely eliminate noise. I would LOVE to use your method to save myself the money on a 15+ foot-long ground wire. Should I follow your lead?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 4:24 pm 
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pet, that's where my ground was all last year. No noise what so ever.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 8:04 pm 
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I would simply get distribution blocks later. Leave your power and ground to one amp for now and then just splice it off when you add the 2nd. You can even use a slightly small wire from the blocks to the amps which will make wiring more easy. Here's the best pic of my set up.

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The wire coming into the blocks is 4 gauge and coming out is 8.

I've not seen a good spot to ground on the helm but you could always try it and and see what happens. I prefer to ground mine back at the engine.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 4:09 am 
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I ran amp power lead to a circuit breaker which then connects to battery switch 'house' side. Negative lead goes direct to house neg battery terminal. House battery has it's own groundinf wire to engine block. No noise when engine's running, and as I have the Blue Sea systems battery isolater, I can completely drain the house battery and still start the engine off of the fully charged starting battery without ever touching the battery switch.

As to noise, I understand that it's important to keep power leads from the amp as far as possible from line inputs and speaker outputs. Bundling these could be the source of your ignition feedback.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 11:59 am 
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Cincy Aquaholic wrote:
I would simply get distribution blocks later. Leave your power and ground to one amp for now and then just splice it off when you add the 2nd. You can even use a slightly small wire from the blocks to the amps which will make wiring more easy. Here's the best pic of my set up.

Image

The wire coming into the blocks is 4 gauge and coming out is 8.

I've not seen a good spot to ground on the helm but you could always try it and and see what happens. I prefer to ground mine back at the engine.


Hmmm that mounting surface looks very familiar :wink: Unless anybody thinks otherwise... I could ground it to the "in" side of the fuse box under the helm.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 12:10 pm 
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I have not had a chance to run my boat since installing the stereo, but if you look under there that is where the main ground for the helm comes in so it should be a really good ground. Also you want your ground wire to be as short as possible so I'm told.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 1:56 pm 
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Thanks everyone for answering the grounding question. Good to know some are using the helm ground without issue. I think I'll follow that plan for my amp install as well.

Length of ground wire: I don't think length is an issue if you've done the calculation to make sure you've got the right gauge in use. If you're going 15 feet with a 20 gauge, that might be a problem. 15 feet with 4 gauge is not, from what I understand.

Anyone know how to actually do that calculation, assuming a 1200 watt amp in use?

Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 2:24 pm 
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If you're using 4 ga. for one amp, it won't matter how long it is.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 10:36 pm 
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There's tables out there in the Handbook for Boat Builders put out by the Coast Guard. But, you don't use watts to calculate, you use the sum of the maximum amperage draw of everything on the circuit and write that down. Next choose the gauge and temperature rating for wire that will more than handle that figure from the tables, apply factors that account for length, and environment (like running through the engine compartment, or number of wires in the bundle) thereby reducing the reducing the total amps that gauge and temp rating of cable can handle. Here's the link: http://www.uscgboating.org/safety/boatbuilder/index.htm

Also, don't forget to fuse at the source of the power, and again after any distribution blocks.

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