www.iFourWinns.com

Here's what the guys who winterized my 05 H250 did. Did they do enough? Leave anything out? I had put in Stabil, and cleaned her up, removed carpet, emptied out every compartment. Here's what they did.

1 Gear lube was checked not changed
2 oil filter PH 30 fram
3 batteries shut off at disconnect
4 batteries checked for corrosion
5 5 quarts mer cruiser marine oil
6 -40 degrees RV antifreeze circulated through out drive engine running for 10 minutes circulating antifreeze safe for environment no need to flush
7 spark plugs checked and cleaned
8 fogged engine cylinders with premium fogging oil
9 cables lubed
10 cables checked for any chafing
11 lubed out drive pins
12 checked for any hull damage
13 checked trailer tire wear
14 checked for light condition
15 checked winch assembly
16 outside of engine fogged with fogging oil to prevent clamp rust

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2005 Horizon 250

Sounds like they did the anti-freeze by the "suck up the drive" method, which works fine 99.99% of the time but it's not my choice. I would've insisted they change the gear lube regardless of what they thought of the condition. And I don't see anything about changing the fuel filter, lubing the steering cylinder, or winterizing the head and fresh water tank. Those last two are easy to DIY, but you'll need battery power to do it.

What is "clamp rust?" I've never heard of spraying the outside of an engine with oil.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I agree with Mike! Depending on the type of batteries, I would have removed them. The AGM battery can take the winter cold, some are rated to -50, were a wet/flooded can freeze if not kept over 50% charged or more.

The portapotty was removed by me a long time ago. I don't use the freshwater system, so I don't know if anything really needs to be done for maintenance. I will disconnect and remove the batts and put them on the trickle chargers here at home. I assume they sprayed fogging oil on clamps and other metal fixtures on the engine to prevent corrosion ("clamp rust"), but I'll check with them. I need to find out about the fuel filter as well. Thanks for the info! I used these guys because they come to the storage facility where I store the boat in the winter. It is convenient, but, as you all have seen, not good enough.

Do I need to antifreeze the freshwater system even if no water was put in the system?

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2005 Horizon 250

They sound cover the most of items.. We put antifreeze in water system since there is always some water / moisture left in line or pump. There is always a chance to freeze. Antifreeze act as lubricant so area where is good to keep wet stays wet.. my 2C

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08 H260 VP 8.1Gi DP.....Previous
2013 Crownline E6 Merc 8.2MAG BIIIX, DTS/SC

My concern is the antifreeze in the engine; if they only ran it for 10 minutes, I doubt the thermostat would have opened fully (unless the engine was already hot), so the block, heads and inlet manfold would still have raw water in them. If it's got closed cooling, 10 minutes is fine as ithe antifreeze mix is passing through the heat exchanger and exhaust manifolds/ risers the whole time (closed cooling it makes it easy to winterise !). If you do have closed cooling, the anode in the heat exchanger needs checking.

Graham

First is the engine raw water cooled or closed cooled (heat exchanger?). If closed cooled, that's OK if raw water cooled, it might not be.......
I'd be most concerned about the 'circulating af for 10 min'. I have commented on this many times, if the engine does not get hot enough to open the thermostat, or if they did not drain the engine first or remove the thermostat, raw water can remain in the engine and freeze. That will crack the block and then it's new engine time. I don't think there is a -40 AF, only -50, -60 and -100. This is a lazy man's shortcut. Yes the marinas can do it when they do 100s of boats, and have a trough to run the drive in, which re-circulates the AF and it stays hot so the thermo will stay open. If you don't know for sure if the thermo opened, it's risky. The RIGHT way is to remove the drain plugs, and probe the opening with a long wood screw, awl or thin screwdriver to drain all the water. Then you can back fill with AF through the hoses, till a bit of AF comes out the drains. Then put some gasket sealer or marine grease on the threads of the drain plugs, replace them and continue filling till the engine and manifolds are full. I would pull the engine block drain on each side, and let what's in there drain into a paper cup. Put it in the freezer and see what happens. If it freezes drain the block completely.

I ranted about this on the http://www.boatingabc.com board about a month ago. Somebody had a boat with a Volvo engine, did it that way for years without a problem. BUT, I bet he never knew how close he came to freezing the block, just lucky. Well he got another boat with twin Mercs, and did it the same way. Because of my rant, he checked the block drains and pure water came out. So not all engines will warm up enough, to get the thermo all the way open. Lucky he listened to me, he would have needed 2 new blocks come spring.

Oh and yes the gear oil should be changed and the steering ram greased.

If you want low maintenance don't buy a sterndrive. They have some good points but low maintenance is not one of them. Low maintenance = outboards.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I appreciate the info. It is the 6.2 L Mercruiser 350 mag V8 with the bravo 3 drive. It is raw water cooled. I'll call these guys on Monday. I think I'll have the gear oil and fuel filter changed in the spring, and if they didn't grease the steering I'll do that then also. I'm not sure yet what to do about the antifreeze. Before they worked on it I was told they would "get all the water out". Maybe they did drain it before they ran the af in for 10 min.

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2005 Horizon 250

I winterize my boat the same way. actually alot of my friends do it as well. Were here in Ohio and they have never had any issues. It works this way as longs as you run the engine and let it get to normal running temperature. Keep your eye on the temp gauge. when it is hot and you notice that it starts to cool down this is when the thermostat opens up. start pouring the antifreeze in the earmuffs. I use he -100 . its blueish green. Not saying its the right way or the wrong way, I hear everyone doing it different all the time.

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1997 Horizon RS 180
5.7 GL Volvo Penta /SX drive. (1.60)
2018 Ford F-150 super crew 4x4

Doesn't your 6.2 have the quick drain system? If so and you are worried it takes about 30 seconds and no tools at all to see if any water is left system anywhere.

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Brian Borchik
The Winds of Cold Springs Harbor Marina
Baldwinsville, NY