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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:14 am 
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Mines not. Besides this is supposed to be about what kind and size of inverter the OP wanted, or needed.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:33 am 
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ric wrote:
You are taking the law out of context to make it suit your needs. Ignition protection is not a blanket coverage needed for everything electronic in the engine bay, including items that are not possible sources of ignition. Ignition protection means a spark arresting device installed on an electrical component that creates sparks. You are protecting the fuel vapors from the ignition source (hence the term "ignition protected"). You can not ignition protect something that has no source of ignition.


My inverter has cooling fans, switching relays, and large capacitors which are all potential sources if there is a failure. Capacitor failure is the most common problem with inverters...have you ever seen what they do when they fail? There's your source to ignite.

I provided the Federal law numbers so if I took it out of context please prove me wrong. Let's stick to facts not personal theories. Call your insurance if you have any and ask them what they think...better yet wait till your boat explodes and share your views with them

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:42 am 
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ric wrote:
So why is the battery in the engine compartment?

There are similar rules regarding batteries also. Must be strapped down with terminal protectors or an approved battery box. They aren't put inside because of the possibility of gassing out toxic fumes(lead acid). The engine bay is the lesser of two evils as I agree that batteries can be a ticking time bomb if there is a spark while they are gassing or shorted

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 10:46 am 
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I provided a nice post explaining inverter and battery bank sizes

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12715#p120046

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 12:13 pm 
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Took a look this weekend... there's all kinds of electrical items in my engine bay that the manufacturer installed that don't have an "ignition rated" sticker on 'em... Speakers, circuit breakers, wire, lights... I can get a list together if need be.
Capacitors "blow" from over pressure, not from electrical failure.
I still don't think I'd put one in my engine compartment though.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 12:15 pm 
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Thank you :)

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 2:04 pm 
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For the stuff you are running, why not use 12v appliances hard wired or use your 12 volt sockets? I sure wouldn't want extension cords running through the cabin. The only reason I might want an inverter of that size is for the coffee maker if I didn't already have a factory installed generator.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 2:09 pm 
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noexcuses wrote:
For the stuff you are running, why not use 12v appliances hard wired or use your 12 volt sockets? I sure wouldn't want extension cords running through the cabin. The only reason I might want an inverter of that size is for the coffee maker if I didn't already have a factory installed generator.


Coffee on a boat is simple. 12v water heater and a french press, or go the 'good' instant route:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181239736840?lpid=82

Costs about $5 at a local asian market. My favorite coffee in the whole world!

Fans? Go 12v.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 8:39 pm 
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I will say Ric is right about every thing except 2 things. First off, admit when you are wrong and stop pushing. Inverter are NOT ignition proof. If that GFI on the front was to trip it would make a spark. BUT you could hard wire it and remove the GFI, but it is still not rated ignition proof! I would not do it.

As to the batteries: I think if boat builders could, they too would not be in there BUT. As long as you have good solid connection to the battery, they will not spark!

As to the load, try to get every thing to run on 12v. LED lighting, t.v. ...............


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:25 pm 
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I'm 12v everything on my vessel except the A/C. There's no need to wastefully power convert simple appliances when they can be purchased in the correct voltage.

Power is like gas, you only have so much in the tank until you run out and here's generally no gas stations in the middle of the water. The key is to not waste it, and to use it efficiently. You don't use inverters for lighting and fans.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:52 pm 
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Well, in some ways your right. I have stayed at the Vineyard on Cape Cod, for 4 days at a time on a mooring. The batteries go low you just start the engine for 30mins. Not a problem and I had to do this every 24 to 36 hours on 2 G24 AGM batteries. My biggest problem was water with a 24gal tank.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 7:54 am 
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Paul I. wrote:
Well, in some ways your right. I have stayed at the Vineyard on Cape Cod, for 4 days at a time on a mooring. The batteries go low you just start the engine for 30mins. Not a problem and I had to do this every 24 to 36 hours on 2 G24 AGM batteries. My biggest problem was water with a 24gal tank.


Check out the marine surplus/salvage places. You can get desalinators for quite cheap. My father sold his for like $100.

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2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
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1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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