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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:23 am 
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Joined: Fri May 26, 2006 8:06 pm
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Location: N.E. OHIO
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I use a Super Soaker squirt gun. Load it up with pink stuff and push it thru the thruhull. Clean the strainer first and make sure the seacock is open. I saw one place was getting $49 to winterize a AC. I would do them all day for that much.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 2:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 9:02 am
Posts: 616
Location: Miami, FL
Architectdave wrote:
captwalt wrote:


Thanks for the invite. BTW hows that annual algea growth? I remember my dad paying a couple grand every 4 months to pull wash paint and put back his boat in Houston. Besides snow doesn't pick up my boat and fling it to Alabama once ina while....lol




Hahaha....nice one Dave. I trailer my boat so I don't have to deal with the algea as often. However the guy I bought it form did keep it in the water and it took a lot of elbow grease, some "easy on and off" and sweat to get that along with the barnacle and water line off.

On a serious note is there such thing as warehousing your boat from the elements during the winter? I know "boataminiums" as they are called are pretty popular for us to store out of the elements here. Most are made to withstand big time winds in case a tropical storm moves in. Would sticking your boat inside a garage or warehouse be a possibility or do you still need to winterize it?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
Best thing to do is get the manufacturers manuals (engine, water systems etc) and follow the instructions to the letter, that way you won't make a mistake. Plan on the first time taking a lot longer than you think but once you've done it the job goes much faster the next time. When I did my old OMC I had never winterized a boat before and I just followed the steps in the OMC manual and never had a problem. Two things on draining the engine, make sure it's level fore and aft and port to starbord and poke a screw in the block and manifold drains because then can get clogged up with rust and sediment. And, do it on a nice 65 degree October day, don't wait till it's 40 degrees in November and freezing at night!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 6:50 am 
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Forty six and Two

Joined: Tue Mar 06, 2007 8:36 am
Posts: 292
Location: Portland Maine
capt walt - I like the idea of inside storage and if my wifes grandfather was still alive we could have put it in his warehouse but to pay for it would be insane. Heck even cold inside storage would be great.

Ive winterized boats before. I just wont take the chance until the warrenty is up.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 7:07 am 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
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Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
LouC wrote:
...don't wait till it's 40 degrees in November and freezing at night!

Voice of experience, eh Lou? :D

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 3:11 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Yep

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 9:37 pm 
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Whatever
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 8:39 am
Posts: 996
Location: Salt Lake, Utah
All I have ever done with my last to boats, was to pull all hoses and drain plugs. I never put antifreeze in the motor. These boats didn't have a water system to worry about. This worked for me for 9 years. Never froze or cracked anything.

Current boat, I have just finished installing water heater bypass and T for pulling antifreeze from jug. Same as our RV.
But unsure how I will go after the motor, I have read the service manual, this volvo isnt looking as easy to drain as merc or the old OMC king cobra.

For winterizing the head and A/C, I took a toilet plunger and added a garden hose fitting to it so I can hold this up to the bottom of the boat and feed antifreeze to system from jug that is elevated. The guy that had the boat prior to us did not winterize the head and let the pump freeze. New head waiting to be installed.

As far as prices go, I saw that my local dealer is charging $150-$375 for winterizing. This wasn't for crusiers with water systems either, I am sure that will be much more. This is why I do it myself.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 10:19 pm 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
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Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
So who's putting what grade of antifreeze in their systems? -50, -60 or -100? Personally I'm most interested in boats in the mid-atlantic region (chesapeake). But I'm sure those of you in other areas have interest too.

I'm probably going with -50 for the water, plumbing and AC systems. The engines, however, I'm unsure about.

Of course then the question is how much will it take for two 6.0L engines?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 12:33 am 
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Narwhal
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Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:29 am
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Location: Chicago, IL
You want to use RV antifreeze (pink stuff) not the automotive antifreeze (green stuff). I haven't seen ratings such as you describe on the pink stuff. I use the pink stuff in cottage plumbing fixtures (all above ground, and uninsulated) with no problems. At the same time, I just drained the water from the engine block on my old boat, and had no problems up here in Wisconsin. Still, with the new Volvo I'm pausing for thought. Winterizing is coming all too soon.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 12:41 am 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
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Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
I'm well acquainted with the differences between antifreeze for engines and for water systems. The latter are available with different low temperature grades. Pink is generally only good to -50F, bearing in mind that it'll start to slush at a higher temp.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 1:14 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Mon May 28, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 45
Location: Mass
Dave,
I'm bringing my 190 in tomorrow for winterizing $130 incl. fog, drain h20, change gear oil.
I was quoted an additional $160 for oil change. I elected to do it myself (yesterday). $15 oil + $10 filter. You definitely want the Volvo oil removal adapter that screws onto the diptstick. It took me about an hour (first time). Next time I'm sure it will be 15 minutes or less. I also changed the fuel filter ($10).
$130 seemed reasonable, and I have a couple warrantee items I want the dealer to take care of. I'm not sure if winterizing w/ fuel injection (on your boat) is more or less entailed.
For shrinkwrapping, I was quoted about $250. My dilemma is that I will have to put a "door" on the shrinkwrap so that I can get the battery out...as I will want to put the trim down after getting the boat home.
-Dave

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 7:11 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Mon May 28, 2007 9:40 am
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Location: Mass
Update to my post (immediately above this one). I dropped the boat off today & found that the dealer misquoted me a "4 cylinder" winterizing price ...so its about another $40 for the 6 cyl. Oh, and also, as I want the boat "ready to drop in the water and go" in the Spring the winterizing will be another $90 for them to put non-toxic antifreeze in the block and reattach the hoses and drain bolts. The alternative is that I bring it back to them for spring "summerization" and for a couple hundred, they will re-attach a couple hoses, and re-insert the few drain/freeze plugs.
In essence, $130 now looks to be closer to $300. Glad I saved the extra $160 with the DIY oil change.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:16 am 
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Forty six and Two

Joined: Tue Mar 06, 2007 8:36 am
Posts: 292
Location: Portland Maine
I spoke to our guys today and a complete package gets you synthetic oil change fuel filter stablizing foging pull the drive lube check for water damage etc for 300. If you get shrink wrapping plus the above you save 20% on the entire thing. Storage is 40 a month. I will be bringing it home thank you.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 2:26 pm 
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Shark
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Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 5:43 pm
Posts: 100
Location: Hooksett, NH
I am paying $180.00 for:
STERN DRIVE WINTERIZING SERVICES INCLUDE

Run motor and check basic operations.
Inspect water discharge.
Inspect lower unit for water and pressure check if necessary.
Drain water from block and manifolds and refill with marine grade anti-freeze.
Drain oil from engine, replace oil filter, and refill with manufacturer's recommended oil.
Replace water separator filter.
Apply anti-corrosion grease to all out-drive fittings.
Fuel stabilizer is added to preserve both the fuel and the fuel tank for upcoming winter and spring months.
Fog the engine block, carburetors and fuel lines.
Check all belts, hoses and general condition of the boat motor, drive and lower unit.

I think this sounds like a great price. I will just need to hook the battery up in the spring and she will be ready to go.
Is there something missing above I should also have done? this is second season with boat.
thanks
Matt

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:38 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Mon May 28, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 45
Location: Mass
Matt,
Check your "messages"

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