www.iFourWinns.com

If your access is good, why dont you just use one of these to connect your hot and cold lines from your hot water tank together, it costs about 3 bucks. I personally use a by-pass kit, but only because access to mine is not that easy to fight every year

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Bridgewater, PA
2008 Vista 318

Yes, a direct connect between then is certainly the simplest.

But those connectors are not known for their long term reliability if you're reconnecting them a lot. Hell, I've had some brand new out of the package that wouldn't make a tight connection.

I went with the by-pass first because mine is also a pain to reach, but also for the long term reliability.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Ya, I saw that coupler and thought it would be an easy bypass, but unfortunately I would need 2 couplers and another lenght of water line to make the connection, as my hot and cold lines are not long enough to make just one coupler work.

I did get myself a temporary bypass kit with the male to male as described by Bill, but i guess I'm afraid that if I remove these "whale" quick connect fittings too many times that they will eventually leak. Personally I just dont trust them. They feel like cheap plastic. I'm surprised my entire plumbing is rigged with them. Could actually explain why I'm getting mystery water in my bilge at times? I may just get one of the permanent bypass kits with the valves to save time every year.

Anyone else have the quick connects for their water lines? I assume it came this way from FW.

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2002 Vista 248
"Sunny Dayz"

Most recreational boats use that kind of fitting (there's around 3 vendors of them). They're a lot less unreliable than some other kinds that have come before (ask SeaRay folks about those crimped hoses...)

Once they're connected and the tubing is secured it's a pretty reliable setup.

The most important thing about anything in a boat is that it be mounted properly. Movement is the enemy. This is why they don't use rigid tubing live PVC or metal. The constant motion would eventually cause hard joint to crack. So using these flexible tubes and connectors helps stave off leaks.

Finding leaks is a process. Start by running the boat without any water in it. Drain the tank and take it out for a trip. If there's water in there then it's coming from somewhere else. Then leave it out in the rain, again, if there's water then you have a leak. Prime culprits for rain leaks are the portholes and the overhead hatches.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I undo mine every year to blow the lines out in various spots. I do the same with the water heater, never put pink in the lines just the fresh water tank and the pump.
Then add a cup of bleach at the start of each season and flush the tank, never have problems with anti freeze smell or bleach smell. I leave teh relief open and drain open, never had a problem.
The fittings seem rinky dinky but they always seem to hold!

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

I was able to bypass the water heater with an existing elbow that's used to connect to the water heater. Worked great actually.


Does everyone blow the antifreeze out of the lines? If I don't, will I get perma nasty tasting water?

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2002 Vista 248
"Sunny Dayz"

I would not leave it in there. If you filled with antifreeze it will have displaced the water in the lines because it is heavier and resulting of all of the water being push out. I never put antifreeze in the lines and only blow them out.
If you leave it in just put bleach in the fresh water tank in the spring and keep flushing it through.

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

You end up having to rinse it a number of times to get the pink out.

I use the fresh water pump to pull antifreeze into the system. I put a hose tee in the line just before the pump and just after the tank shut-off. I use that tee to drain the tank first and then shut it off (this keeps any pink from getting back into it). Then I use a short length of hose connected to a 5 gallon jug (from West Marine) full of pink. I go along the system opening each spigot until it runs pink. Galley, head, toilet, shower, transom shower and finally the cockpit sink. Once they're done I hook up an air compressor (same one used for swim toys) to the shore water connector and blow out the system, working my way back in reverse. This way I'm reasonably sure there's no water in there and nearly no antifreeze.

When Spring returns I just hook it back up to shore water and let all the taps run for about 5 minutes. That's worked well for several seasons now. The great part is no pink AT ALL in the water tank or heater tank.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I like the idea of not dealing with pink in the tanks come spring. Although I successfully bypassed the water heater, I ended flushing the rest of the system using the water tank. I'll be using a hose tee next year for sure. I started getting frustrated when my pump quit. I actually had to take the screen off and clean it as it somehow some plastic wrap looking crap got in there and completely clogged it up. Thanks for the advise guys! This is my first boat with a water system, and it took a bit to actually figure out how the whole system actually works.

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2002 Vista 248
"Sunny Dayz"

Just got off phone with VP Service Mechanic - my question was about fogging the fuel injected motors. He said simple as with a carb system - just pull the pvc hose (starboard side valve cover) which leads to the flame arrestor. Spray fogging oil (stabil is what i use) into hose leading to air intake and whala.

Spray it heavy with motor running (just like with carb) for about 10 secs and she w- ill start smoking....your done and shut her down.

Was glad to get this info and thought i would share - since i don't know any double jointed circus freaks that can get to the plugs to spray each one individually.

I don't have any water storage tanks so my winterization is pretty simple.

Impellor swap
Oil & filter change - motor
Oil change - drive
Fuel filter/water seperator change
Fill fuel tank and stabalize
Run on muffs to circulate stabil fuel through system and filter
Fog
Drain manifolds and block (4 plugs)
Drain water line hoses (at impeller - water pump)
Wipe down vinly with 3M Vinyl treatment
Prop seat lids open slightly - cover and put in storage:(

Rat poisen on ground near boat - sprinkle moth balls around (closed storage)
(fyi - i was told by an exterminator to never put mouse/rat poisen in your house/boat etc...he said this is simple if you think about it - it's a BAIT that draws them to it. Why draw rodents into your boat. Use the large plastic bait stations you can refill, glue it to concrete shim block and stick it near your boat) The moth balls (if enclosed area) will deter spiders and other insects - i have used the dryer sheets before but they don't seem to deter our local spiders one bit.)

If you are a new boat owner - make damn sure you drain the water out of your boat if nothing else - it's simple and don't think it will not freeze. Better to do it while tolerable outside than to be trying to drain while you can't feel your digits.

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http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o71 ... wqm355.jpg


08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi

Heh, you're right about rat poison and it's attraction. The mice in my shed continue to be dumb enough to gnaw their way INTO the box of bait poison. Hell, they seem to prefer the effort of chewing into the box as opposed to the ones I leave lying out!

Thus I make sure to remove ANYTHING edible or that has had any food on it. I also remove all of the carpets removable cushions. pillows and bedding. No sense leaving them material to chew up. Granted, rodents will make due with anything. I'm more motivated to make sure they don't ruin the otherwise expensive-to-replace custom stuff.

I also find it's helpful to do a SERIOUS cleaning. Better to clean off any mold or mildew before storage, that cuts down on surprises come next Spring.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista