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Sad to say its getting close to that time, I tend to do mine end of Oct because I can't stand doing it on a 40 degree day in Nov.
Put enough Stabil in the tank before your last run, so it gets well mixed in.
After you pull the boat, run it on the water hose till it gets warm, then change the oil and filter. Next run it again and fog the engine (if carbed or throttle body injection, if port injected you have to use a special mixture of gas, stabil and 2 stroke fuel in the fuel filter). After you fog it let it cool off.
Now for the most important part, draining the water. Remove each drain (2 block drains, one on each manifold) and poke the holes. Make sure water comes out of each one. Then take the raw water intake hose off the thermo housing, point it down in the bilge so it drains. Then, hold the hose up and fill it with no tox antifreeze till it comes out the drive water intakes, that will also push water out of the PS cooler. These coolers have drains but they can be very tough to get at. Next, pull off the bottom end of the big hose on the circulating pump on the front of the engine. Lots of water will drain out. On some Volvos, you should pull the hose from the impeller housing to the thermo housing, let that drain too. Some 4.3 V6s have a square plug drain on the front of the intake manifold. Look for it, mine does not have that though. OK the engine is drained. Sure you got all the plugs and hoses?? DOUBLE CHECK
Now this is optional, but I do it. I take some OMC gasket sealer and put it on each drain plug. That stops corrosion and small water leaks. Replace the drain plugs in the engine and manifolds. I then fill the engine with -100 AF by, reconnecting the big hose on the bottom of the water pump, and disconnecting it at the top. I fill it from the top of the hose till I see AF at the neck of the thermo housing. There is no need to remove the thermostat do do this.
Then reconnect the top of that hose. Next I disconnect the feed hoses to each manifold, and fill them with af till it runs out the exhaust. Reconnect the hoses. OK, engine drained, full of -100 AF. NOTICE, I did not say, to hook up a tank full of AF to run it in the engine, that little short cut can cost you an engine if the thermostat does not open all the way (and on a cool fall day it might not). This method can work with closed cooling but its risky because if the impeller can't suck up the more dense than water antifreeze, it can burn the impeller and the engine overheats while you are trying to winterize. Not good. SO if you want to use AF to reduce corrosion, do it my way.
Next the drive, drain the drive oil and look for milky oil. If you see that take the drive to the mechanic to get resealed. If not you are lucky and replace the drain and fill gaskets and put in new gear oil. My Cobra has 3 drains on the pivot housing I have to drain, some older Volvo SXs have them too.
I remove the drive the next weekend and check for water in the bellows and gear oil, if there's water you need a bellows, if gear oil you need an input shaft seal.
I also take off the fuel filter and dump the gas in a glass jar and let it sit. If it has a layer of water I'd think about pumping out the bottom layer of gas in the tank. I put a new filter on filled with gas. Don't forget to oil the gasket.
I clean the boat well, and put in moisture absorbers. Charge the batts every few months during the winter, and I open up the winter cover on nice days to let it air out. Take out anything that can hold moisture like life jackets, lines, etc. Prop open storage compartments like bow seats, cabin doors etc.
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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II
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