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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:02 am 
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Just when i thought i had the problem resolved with beefing up the steering pump hose that comes plugged off to begin with....i have sprung another leak. Both times the leak has occurred after the engine had been shut off for a couple weeks. So it leaks when not under pressure???? I felt around the steering actuator and nothing can be felt....the oil is squarely in the bilge and not on the sides as though it were dripping from the edge of the actuator.

It is definitely steering fluid and almost completely drained out....can't see that being an actuator without it running??? Of course seeing anything uder the engine is an useless effort. I noticed there is a definite vacuum in the oil pump and it sucks air when i pull out the dipstick..this may be normal...or...not?

Any thoughts? I don't think i have a power steering fluid cooler....i figure that is where the line that is plugged would have gone. I hate to take the boat to the shop and have them park it outside for weeks until i get my turn at the mechanic. It is under warranty still, but if possible i prefer to work on it myself - only if i knew where to work that is:)

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:10 am 
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230 Mike
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I know I'm asking the stupid question, but are you certain it's not trim fluid - because it's the same product.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:11 am 
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Look at the steering ram, they leak at the high pressure seal on the rod.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:15 pm 
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230 Mike wrote:
I know I'm asking the stupid question, but are you certain it's not trim fluid - because it's the same product.


Trim tabs (hydraulic) use the same stuff too, ATF. So it can steer you wrong.

"It is definitely steering fluid and almost completely drained out" Than it must be! Hope you find it & it not too much work!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:24 pm 
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230 Mike
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TX H210SS wrote:
...and almost completely drained out....


Oops, I missed that part. PS pump shaft seal, leaking on back side of the pump?

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 1:09 pm 
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230 Mike wrote:
TX H210SS wrote:
...and almost completely drained out....


Oops, I missed that part. PS pump shaft seal, leaking on back side of the pump?


The PS pump is just a Chevy unit. I replaced mine for under $30.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 1:59 pm 
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Get yourself a telescoping mirror and a flashlight and start looking at the bottem side of everything. That fluid is running from somewhere.
if soaked underneath and cant determine where its originating from, clean completely dry off and "dust" the underneath. you do this by putting speedydry or dusty kitty litter in a rag. then you lightly blow compressed air though it to make a dust cloud. any leak will show almost instantly. Its very effective for slight leaks

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:19 pm 
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This may be going too far! http://www.cpotools.com/bosch-ps90-1a-1 ... h-tools--0

But nice tool to have. You can check your manifoilds with out taking them off.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:31 pm 
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thats actually a good price.... never used that particular one but I have a snap-on one which of course was way more money. but it is very usefull.
a mirror and flashlight cost way less and should be in every tool kit on a boat

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:13 pm 
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Thanks...I will jump into it this weekend and see what's going on....just hopes its something I can access.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:14 pm 
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Did I mention I liked the concealed outboard model boats.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 2:30 pm 
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Location: North Bay, ON CA
I love my boat but I hate the thoughts of most maintenance. No room to do much of anything. My next boat will be an outboard without question.

Greg

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 7:47 pm 
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The smaller FW bow riders (like under 24 feet) are tough to work on because the 'glass that is part of the top cap is very much in the way. The larger boats have a wider engine compartment that makes it easier. Over the years l changed things in mine to make it easier to work on (2-piece rear seat, 2 piece hinged bulkhead), all comes apart with wingnuts and a screw driver. I don't have to pull out the whole seat and bulkhead to winterize it anymore, I remove the port side rear seat (4 screws) rear divider (6 screws) and open the hinged bulkhead like a door. Why can't these boats at the prices they sell for be designed the same way?

To be fair while OBs are not in a small hole like IOs, the also have a bunch of complex stuff packed into a small space. If inboards/IOs were designed by actual marine mechanics, they could be much easier to work on and your maintenance charges would be less. If GM still made an inline 6 that would be the easiest to service design you could have. The longer engine would take some space but you could fit larger seats (removable) on each side of the engine. Common sense is all that is needed.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 9:46 pm 
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Greg's...u have .5 liters less space than I do....the oil changes are good with the remote filter. I fought that battle for ten years with no remote and it sucked. Other than oil its a beatchhhh getting to anything else.

Maintenance isn't a bad thing for me but the impossible circus act to get access really does pisss me off :| The boat size is perfect for me but I'm envious of the engine bays of the bigger models. Lou...do you have pics of where you made cuts?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:48 am 
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that was one important detail when I was shopping for boats last year. My 98 Sundowner was a major pain to work on. Plugs, wires, oil filter, getting around the engine in general sucked

now I can crawl around my engine and get to everything

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