www.iFourWinns.com

I don't boat in salt water, but I have noticed that the interior of my trailer where the drain holes are look rusty. What are you guys doing rust proof your trailer? Would a crown automotive spray on wax work? What about a product like CRC heavy duty marine rust inhibitor?

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2011 SL242 5.7 VP GXi - 320 HP Dual Prop

CRC heavy duty marine rust inhibitor should do well, or Boeshield T-9. But how do you get it in there?

I have seen aircraft mechanics with a long SST tube and spray nozzle on the end that they use to spray corrosion inhibitor inside aircraft wings and fuselage. I think they can fit it through a 3/4" hole. They usually use Corrosion-X on airplanes because it is thin and creeps into small gaps, but I like T-9 for marine use because it goes on a little thicker and waxy.

It's too late for my trailer, I can feel loose chunks of rust inside. I am building a new trailer frame soon (galvanized steel tongue, Aluminum I-Beam frame).

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

I believe in rustproofing a trailer regardless of saltwater use or freshwater use. There are many products that can be used but if rust is present you must use one of two types of products. CRC and Boeshield wont cut it in this case.
If rust is present then you need to use a product that either encapsulates or converts the rust. A product that encapsulates will remove the oxygen from continuing to create corrosion. POR 15 or Wurth Rustguard are two products from the automotive industry that encapsulate and are able to be thinned out enough to spray with a tool called a Multisprayer.Think of a paint sprayer with 5 ft long plastic hoses. They are a black glossy and rock hard once dry. I personally did my trailer with this -- one step. A converter would be a product like Ospho (Home Depot) or Wurth Metal Guard. These products penetrate the rust and chemically alter it to become its own sealer and primer. These products are usually painted over or sealed again for durability - The second sealer can be "Body Wax" or paint . Body wax sold by Wurth, 3m and some NAPA stores. Essentially it is beeswax that is spray able usually with a long tube attached. Body wax is used by many auto manufacturers to stop corrosion inside door panels and fenders.

Eastwood Corp also makes a similar product that is intended to stop rust inside of automotive frames and rocker panels, etc. You spray it in and it converts and coats the rust to make it inert. Same idea, long spray wand with a diffuser head on it. You might have to drill holes in the frame to reach all the areas you want to do. Here in the salt pond we have 2 choices, galvanized, or aluminum. There are galvanized trailers here that are well over 20 years old and don't have significant rust on them. On mine I replaced just about everything over the years (tongue for a longer one, roller bars for longer ones, axle, added brakes, springs 3x, all ubolts, etc) but the original 1994 galvanized frame is still rust free.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Great thread!
I have rust only around the tail lights and need to do something with it this year. I was going to paint it but had concerns about stopping the rust first.
This Ospho stuff looks like exactly what I need. Thanks

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2004 248 Vista "Amante"
MC 5.0MPI/B3

Thanks for the information guys. There should be some way to tag threads so that we can search easily.

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2011 SL242 5.7 VP GXi - 320 HP Dual Prop