Boating noob

fi.na.tine · **Posted:** Mon Jul 21, 2014 8:46 pm

Just got my first boat. (2008 h180, 3.0 VP) Hopefully I will get the trailer backing down before I drive myself insane.

A few questions - Starting with... Starting. What do you usually do to start your boat from cold? The salesperson had me drop the lower unit, engage the transmission unlock, put the throttle forward and crank, then even it out under 1000 rpm for about 3-4 minutes, then hit the water, easy for the first 10 minutes, then away we went. IS this correct? Any pointers you want to share?

VHF radio - I don't have one and could get away with an install for approx 100 bucks. I plan on staying on rivers in and around populated areas with good cell coverage. I could even get a handheld for around 50. Is this a must, or just something to have?

Vinyl care - What should I use? How often? I bought some McGuire's Leather/vinyl care spray - but is there better that won't bust my wallet? And after every outing or just once a month?

Trailer - I noticed after coming back from the river on my first family trip there was some dried rust water around the inside of the wheel well on one side. I looked underneath and could not figure out where it was coming from. Should I be worried? It pulled fine without noise and no noticeable heat buildup - just wondering if someone had a similar finding that led to something.
Folding tongue - What is the best lube to keep this from binding up? I must have been the first to fold the tongue as it took me some WD40 and pounding on it to get it out. I sanded the pin and the shaft to get rid of the rust but what good non-water fouling lubricant should I use?

Lastly - what are some things I can avoid, and how do I avoid them?

Thanks for the help.

NiagaraChillin · **Posted:** Mon Jul 21, 2014 8:56 pm

fi.na.tine wrote:

Starting with... Starting. What do you usually do to start your boat from cold? Any pointers you want to share?

Not bad, what you do, I always let mine get up to operating temp (about 150), make sure all gauges are good, everything is operating in range before leaving dock.

fi.na.tine wrote:

VHF radio

Yes, at least get a handheld. Even if your in cell range, a VHF radio is a DIRECT link to help, either Sherriff's boat, CG, or another boater with VHF.
As for your other inquiries, read this forum, then read it again. There are lots of experienced boaters here who have tons of knowledge and tips. Also, where do ya boat at? Salt or fresh water? If you have any experienced boater buds, go out with them. Either on their boat, your boat, or as a group of boats.

LouC · **Posted:** Mon Jul 21, 2014 9:24 pm

If this engine has a carburetor, you have to learn how to start it as modern cars all have EFI. You disengage the shift system, pump the throttle all the way forward (this allows the choke plate to close), 3x, then advance the throttle about 1/3 while still in Neutral (this sets the fast idle you need to keep a cold engine running). Crank it over with the starter and when it catches, just give it enough gas to keep it running. When it starts running smoothly you can gradually decrease the idle speed. After it warms up (at least 120 on the temp gauge) bring the throttle lever back to idle position. You are then ready to back off the trailer.
The rusty water from the wheel well is probably rust from the brake drums. Normal.
Things to avoid:
Avoid pulling the boat up the ramp with the drive down. After you get it on the trailer and hooked up, shift to neutral, turn off the engine and trim the drive all the way up. Make sure the safety chain is on, not just the winch strap. You should have straps on the transom too.
Avoid running the boat in very shallow water, this pulls in sand and silt and it can wear the impeller out faster than normal. That will lead to overheating. Make sure you scan your instruments often when driving, Temp should be around 160, oil pressure, at least 20 at idle and as much as 65 at speed, average is about 40 psi, volts, about 13. If your temp is high (over 185) or your oil pressure is low (close to zero at idle, or 20 or lower at speed) get it looked at right away.
Check the motor oil and drive oil often. If it has power steering check that also.
There is a lot to know, take a boating course.
Yes get at least a portable VHF, very important.
If you can get it, on the water towing insurance can save you a fortune.
Read the maintenance manual and make sure to get the needed services done (winterizing, tune up, fluid changes, yearly drive service). It all has to be done, if you expect the boat to be reliable. If you keep the boat at home, even if you can't do any of the mechanical work, get a good battery charger, it will help you avoid dead batteries.
Make sure to get insurance, it is very foolish to have a boat with no insurance, in case of an accident or even if someone slips on your boat. Even though it may not be required, you must have insurance to protect yourself.

schoolsOut · **Posted:** Mon Jul 21, 2014 9:50 pm

fi.na.tine wrote:

Vinyl care - What should I use? How often? I bought some McGuire's Leather/vinyl care spray - but is there better that won't bust my wallet? And after every outing or just once a month?

My brother just turned me onto "Spray Nine Marine" cleaner. I have only used it a couple of times, but works well. I was using Meguiar's Marine Vinyl and Rubber cleaner, but the spray nine seems to work better. I actually found it at Home Depot for pretty cheap.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Spray-Nine-3 ... /100148312

I clean mine every couple of weeks or sooner if needed.

Oh, and my brother also swears by OrPine boat wash. I just got some but did not use it yet. Headed out tomorrow so I will give it a try after.

fi.na.tine · **Posted:** Mon Jul 21, 2014 10:42 pm

LouC wrote:

If this engine has a carburetor, you have to learn how to start it as modern cars all have EFI. You disengage the shift system, pump the throttle all the way forward (this allows the choke plate to close), 3x, then advance the throttle about 1/3 while still in Neutral (this sets the fast idle you need to keep a cold engine running). Crank it over with the starter and when it catches, just give it enough gas to keep it running. When it starts running smoothly you can gradually decrease the idle speed. After it warms up (at least 120 on the temp gauge) bring the throttle lever back to idle position. You are then ready to back off the trailer.
The rusty water from the wheel well is probably rust from the brake drums. Normal.
Things to avoid:
Avoid pulling the boat up the ramp with the drive down. After you get it on the trailer and hooked up, shift to neutral, turn off the engine and trim the drive all the way up. Make sure the safety chain is on, not just the winch strap. You should have straps on the transom too.
Avoid running the boat in very shallow water, this pulls in sand and silt and it can wear the impeller out faster than normal. That will lead to overheating. Make sure you scan your instruments often when driving, Temp should be around 160, oil pressure, at least 20 at idle and as much as 65 at speed, average is about 40 psi, volts, about 13. If your temp is high (over 185) or your oil pressure is low (close to zero at idle, or 20 or lower at speed) get it looked at right away.
Check the motor oil and drive oil often. If it has power steering check that also.
There is a lot to know, take a boating course.
Yes get at least a portable VHF, very important.
If you can get it, on the water towing insurance can save you a fortune.
Read the maintenance manual and make sure to get the needed services done (winterizing, tune up, fluid changes, yearly drive service). It all has to be done, if you expect the boat to be reliable. If you keep the boat at home, even if you can't do any of the mechanical work, get a good battery charger, it will help you avoid dead batteries.
Make sure to get insurance, it is very foolish to have a boat with no insurance, in case of an accident or even if someone slips on your boat. Even though it may not be required, you must have insurance to protect yourself.

It is financed, so insurance was mandatory. At $25 a month it's a cheap worry saver. So was the online boating course for my boater license. I learned a lot - but only so much sticks.

Gauges all looked fine. I drive for a living so scanning gauges and terrain is second nature - noticed too many out on the river with eyes just pinned straight ahead.

I bought this http://www.blackanddecker.com/power-tools/BM3B.aspx for maintaining the battery. It is stored in the garage, so no weather issues - (this was a must as my HOA says no boats outside) - Will it provide good enough power?

As far as mechanical - the dealer offers a $215 winterize that includes de-winterization. I am somewhat handy, but think I will have them do this for me. I also have been putting Lucas ethanol treatment in the gas tank.

I'll pick up that VHF I have been looking at, and an antenna.

Thanks for the start up procedure. I'll be copying that to my checklist.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2014 2:57 am

Install plug. Remove stern straps. Back down ramp, remove bow saftey turnbuckle/chain, lift the engine hatch, turn master power on, blower on, lower the drive, 1mibute of blowe. Jiggle the throttle to insure neutral safty switch. Clip the emergency stop clip, turn key to first hear warning alarms, full turn if key. vrooooom! Cast off. All of that takes me about 1.5-2 min to cast off.

Vinyal care. - use StarBrite vinyal and mildew cleaner. Best stuff out their.

VHF - they day you need one is the day you do not have one. Hard power units with antenas are the best. One key thing to remember with VHF is the radio waves are line of sight. So a taller antena yields a better range. Also the higher amp output yields a better range. Hand heads are convienient from boat to boat but as for range they lack, have to be charged, and can be left at home.

LouC · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2014 9:39 am

A battery maintainer will work but a real battery charger is better.
Depending on your terrain (hills/mountainous) a hard mount VHF with a 6' antenna will give the best range. It's good to have both actually, hard mount and portable as a back up.
If the boat had just a single battery consider adding a dual battery system with a selector switch.
That price is a good one for winterizing but find out what it covers. Don't forget that the outdrive should be removed yearly and the bellows inspected for water, the gimble bearing and ujoints checked for wear. Unfortunately the newer boats don't allow you to grease either which to me is bad design.
If you never do the drive service it literally can get corroded on (yes even in fresh water).
I'm a salt water person and have developed a maintenance schedule that minimizes down time and repairs.

kd4pbs · **Joined:** Thu Sep 05, 2013 10:34 am **Posts:** 350

fi.na.tine wrote:

Just got my first boat. (2008 h180, 3.0 VP) Hopefully I will get the trailer backing down before I drive myself insane.

A few questions - Starting with... Starting. What do you usually do to start your boat from cold? The salesperson had me drop the lower unit, engage the transmission unlock, put the throttle forward and crank, then even it out under 1000 rpm for about 3-4 minutes, then hit the water, easy for the first 10 minutes, then away we went. IS this correct? Any pointers you want to share?

Sounds about right. If it works, stick with it. Carbureted engines start differently than fuel injection. In colder temps, you might have to pump the throttle a few times as you're cranking the engine.

Quote:

VHF radio - I don't have one and could get away with an install for approx 100 bucks. I plan on staying on rivers in and around populated areas with good cell coverage. I could even get a handheld for around 50. Is this a must, or just something to have?

IMHO - The VHF is something you don't need until you need it. So, take that for whatever you're comfortable doing without. Personally, when I'm on the water, I want to have as many forms of communication as possible. It's also a great way to contact other friends on the lake.

Quote:

Vinyl care - What should I use? How often? I bought some McGuire's Leather/vinyl care spray - but is there better that won't bust my wallet? And after every outing or just once a month?

303 Vinyl protectant, hands down. Period.

Quote:

Trailer - I noticed after coming back from the river on my first family trip there was some dried rust water around the inside of the wheel well on one side. I looked underneath and could not figure out where it was coming from. Should I be worried? It pulled fine without noise and no noticeable heat buildup - just wondering if someone had a similar finding that led to something.

Could have been slung off of the brake drum or disc. Best to check that bearing for adequate grease with no water intrusion. Easy to do with a jack, a pair of channel locks, and some rags. While you're in there, re-pack the bearings with grease for peace of mind. Use marine grease (the green stuff). One can find this in most auto parts stores, and is better suited for areas that can get water intrusion. It holds up a little better than other types of grease if water does get in (and chances are that at some time it will).

Quote:

Folding tongue - What is the best lube to keep this from binding up? I must have been the first to fold the tongue as it took me some WD40 and pounding on it to get it out. I sanded the pin and the shaft to get rid of the rust but what good non-water fouling lubricant should I use?

If you can get it on without making a mess, use the same grease that you use on the wheel bearings. Otherwise, try some silicone based stuff; it's less apt to be washed off in water.

Quote:

Lastly - what are some things I can avoid, and how do I avoid them?

Avoid running your boat into obstacles, underwater objects, and other boats/people. One does this by expertly manipulating the steering and throttle, always paying attention, and providing ample "situational awareness".

Quote:

Thanks for the help.

This forum is filled with 99% knowledge, and 1% bullshit. You're in the right place for sure!

webmister · **Joined:** Wed Apr 16, 2014 8:21 am **Posts:** 29

fi.na.tine wrote:

LouC wrote:

If this engine has a carburetor, you have to learn how to start it as modern cars all have EFI. You disengage the shift system, pump the throttle all the way forward (this allows the choke plate to close), 3x, then advance the throttle about 1/3 while still in Neutral (this sets the fast idle you need to keep a cold engine running). Crank it over with the starter and when it catches, just give it enough gas to keep it running. When it starts running smoothly you can gradually decrease the idle speed. After it warms up (at least 120 on the temp gauge) bring the throttle lever back to idle position. You are then ready to back off the trailer.
The rusty water from the wheel well is probably rust from the brake drums. Normal.
Things to avoid:
Avoid pulling the boat up the ramp with the drive down. After you get it on the trailer and hooked up, shift to neutral, turn off the engine and trim the drive all the way up. Make sure the safety chain is on, not just the winch strap. You should have straps on the transom too.
Avoid running the boat in very shallow water, this pulls in sand and silt and it can wear the impeller out faster than normal. That will lead to overheating. Make sure you scan your instruments often when driving, Temp should be around 160, oil pressure, at least 20 at idle and as much as 65 at speed, average is about 40 psi, volts, about 13. If your temp is high (over 185) or your oil pressure is low (close to zero at idle, or 20 or lower at speed) get it looked at right away.
Check the motor oil and drive oil often. If it has power steering check that also.
There is a lot to know, take a boating course.
Yes get at least a portable VHF, very important.
If you can get it, on the water towing insurance can save you a fortune.
Read the maintenance manual and make sure to get the needed services done (winterizing, tune up, fluid changes, yearly drive service). It all has to be done, if you expect the boat to be reliable. If you keep the boat at home, even if you can't do any of the mechanical work, get a good battery charger, it will help you avoid dead batteries.
Make sure to get insurance, it is very foolish to have a boat with no insurance, in case of an accident or even if someone slips on your boat. Even though it may not be required, you must have insurance to protect yourself.

It is financed, so insurance was mandatory. At $25 a month it's a cheap worry saver. So was the online boating course for my boater license. I learned a lot - but only so much sticks.

Gauges all looked fine. I drive for a living so scanning gauges and terrain is second nature - noticed too many out on the river with eyes just pinned straight ahead.

I bought this http://www.blackanddecker.com/power-tools/BM3B.aspx for maintaining the battery. It is stored in the garage, so no weather issues - (this was a must as my HOA says no boats outside) - Will it provide good enough power?

As far as mechanical - the dealer offers a $215 winterize that includes de-winterization. I am somewhat handy, but think I will have them do this for me. I also have been putting Lucas ethanol treatment in the gas tank.

I'll pick up that VHF I have been looking at, and an antenna.

Thanks for the start up procedure. I'll be copying that to my checklist.

Winterization at $215 will not include engine oil or outdrive fluid flush. You still have to do those things.

Another thing, try to get into habit of using bilge blower before starting the engine.

LVChris · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2014 5:26 pm

Have to add "things to avoid" Avoid leaving the plug out!

Backing a trailer- the army taught me years ago and I swear by this it's as easy as pie!

Only use your mirrors! If you see the boat in your left mirror turn the wheel that way. If you see it in the other mirror turn it that way. This will get you backing straight with ease. So if you want to add a turn to the mix follow the rules, if you want it to go further in one mirror, turn the wheel toward the other mirror. Small turns and slow speeds to start.

Seriously try this and I think you will love it.

EvilZ · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2014 5:38 pm

Quote:

It is financed, so insurance was mandatory.

Are you talking about standard collision/comprehensive insurance, or Vessel Assist? On-water towing may not be covered under your policy - worth checking into.

fi.na.tine · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2014 6:44 pm

EvilZ wrote:

Quote:

It is financed, so insurance was mandatory.

Are you talking about standard collision/comprehensive insurance, or Vessel Assist? On-water towing may not be covered under your policy - worth checking into.

they pay the first $50. Talking with Agent to see if this can be increased. If not I may switch to Progressive which can pay up to the first $1000 for a few $$ more a month.

schoolsOut · **Posted:** Wed Jul 23, 2014 5:39 pm

kd4pbs wrote:

303 Vinyl protectant, hands down. Period.

Love the 303 as well, but pretty sure it does not clean, just protects. I clean with Spray Nine Marine, then protect with 303.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Thu Jul 24, 2014 10:37 am

Star Brite for cleaning.. amazing, if you do not have it go ahead and punch yourself int he face because you will retreat not having it.

fi.na.tine · **Posted:** Thu Jul 24, 2014 9:43 pm

Another question -

What is the highest I should run the RPM's at? I was getting 34 mph (from the speedo) at 4200 on smooth water, so wondering if it will handle 5500 or should I just stay around 4500?

I know the speedometer can be horridly inaccurate, downloaded some GPS/plotting apps so that I can make a more informed navigational run next time....

Still also wondering about minimum depth I should run as well. I got nervous when the gauge started reading 5 feet....

www.iFourWinns.com

Boating noob

Who is online