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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 10:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:13 pm
Posts: 1303
Location: Allatoona Lake, Georgia
We do a lot of this and basically follow the advice already given but when it is time to leave, pull in your stern line and then use the windlass to pull the boat away from the shore prior to cranking your engines. Otherwise, you will suck up a lot of sand.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 6:23 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 9:12 pm
Posts: 149
fantastic images - very helpful.
And that lake reminds me of a few years I spent in Alabama....

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 8:44 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:59 pm
Posts: 341
Location: Cape Cod, MA
One other idea to make this setup, which we do all summer, safer for the aft anchor is to use a bumper and tie it to the anchor, even a couple, so that the line is visible to swimmers even though it may be under water. With a couple of fenders tied to the line, it become apparent where the line is in the water. This is especially important on the anchor/chain so no-one trips into it and bashes their feet.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 8:55 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:03 am
Posts: 2238
Location: Winthrop, Ma.
babbot1 wrote:
Paul I. wrote:
Me, anchor in deep/safe water. Than use an inflatable. Between tides, winds, currents and crew safety. It’s not worth it. You may hit something, never mind sucking sand up.

But, thats me.


Same here! Plus being on the CT river the high currents in the spring change things up every year and the tide even miles up the river make for interesting beaching. I have been beached before with a smaller boat on Cape Cod. In a matter of 15 minutes the tide went out so fast that the boat was stuck and it took a lot of pushing to get it out from myself and other guy. No way I can push a cruiser out of the sand....


Were ocean boaters, its a whole different world for us.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 4:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2010 3:23 pm
Posts: 715
Location: Michigan
john55c wrote:
One other idea to make this setup, which we do all summer, safer for the aft anchor is to use a bumper and tie it to the anchor, even a couple, so that the line is visible to swimmers even though it may be under water. With a couple of fenders tied to the line, it become apparent where the line is in the water. This is especially important on the anchor/chain so no-one trips into it and bashes their feet.


I do this as well if the beach is busy. Jamming a toe on a submerged anchor sucks. :(

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2014 6:52 pm
Posts: 326
Location: Vancouver, WA
JeffLW wrote:

This is how I do it ^
Drop the anchor in deeper water and back towards shore. Make sure it is set then shut off and trim up while still in 5-8 feet of depth.
Then jump off and set the stern anchor by hand in the shallows or on shore.
Once I have them both set I can adjust them both so I'm at the depth I want at the swim platform.
Usually about 4 feet. More if there is a lot of wave action.

A couple of years ago I watched a nice boat anchored in 2ft of water bounce off the bottom every time a boat went by. Wasn't my boat, but that sound made me cringe every time it hit. :shock:


I use an anchor buddy (a bungie type device) on my bow anchor and then back in. I then tie onto one of my stern tiedowns and run that line to a beach anchor. When backing I stretch out the bungie, then when I am all set, let it pull back out into the river. Then I tie off. When it comes time to go somewhere, I grab my beach line and pull in the boat, hop on and release my tiedowns, and take off. This way my boat can sit in deeper water and I don't have to swim out to get it.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 2:44 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2012 11:17 pm
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Remember that the risk of water ingress through your exhaust is amplified when your outdrive/s are tilted.
I anchor at a depth that allows my drive to be almost all the way down, even with passing wakes (approx 1.2m).

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