www.iFourWinns.com

I’ve used AF all these years because corrosion is such an issue here but you guys in fresh water can just drain as long as you rod the block drains out. I tested the -50 and -60 in the freezer and while it did not expand and crack the plastic jug it does get hard which in a cast iron engine does not give me a warm fuzzy feeling. So I would use the -100 stuff that stays liquid down to like -54 or so (I tested it once). Im going to start looking around for the Sierra stuff but if I can’t find it I’m back with the pricey stuff.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Winterized it.

Broke the shift cable while removing the outdrive. I didn't know you had to unscrew that stupid fitting on the end of the cable, I thought you could just remove the cotter pin and disconnect it from the drive. Why Volvo couldn't just make the hole a few hundredths of an inch bigger is anyone's guess.

Also had water in the bellows. The bellow looked OK, but I saw a wire protruding from one of the ribs, so maybe it has a hole in it. I pumped grease into the gimbal and saw some water come out, but it feels smooth and doesn't have any rust on it, so it should be OK. If it makes noise I'll change it. Ujoint looked OK - was covered in grease which probably helped save it.

This got me to thinking - is it possible for water to get in from the grease fitting on the gimbal housing?

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2006 Four Winns Horizon 200
Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi/SX

No water cant get in the grease fitting. There is a spring loaded check ball in it.

I with you. I cleaned and waxed mine. Interior with simple green as mildew retardant. My brother borrowed the winterizer deal and did his boat yesterday. It is to be a low of 34 friday. So it is time to do it.

It isn't warm enough to boat till hours after I would normally be home. I had a good summer it is over. Put my baby to bed for the winter. LOL I can't hardly make myself get in the truck and wait for the heat to kick on. So cruising on the river isnt in the big picture.

She got a full tank with gas treatment now. Fire her up warm her up. Pump the anti-freeze in. Then drain it manually all out. Okay maybe a little over kill. But i like the boat it is foolin with it and fun to me. Then wipe out the bilge. Put the mouse traps in it and the wolves pee. That keeps them out to. and a bar of irish spring. I hear they hate baths or something.

I hear you. Our lake is still boatable, even though the DEC removed the navigation markers.

It's nice in the sun, but once 4PM rolls around, or if there's any wind it is COLD.

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2006 Four Winns Horizon 200
Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi/SX

We’re still out there in Southern NY. Had a nice ride today but will be pulling it soon. I did find a source for the Sierra PG engine antifreeze and mixed up what I need to winterize it. Used this stuff last year too. 50/50 mix gives you to -26*F freeze protection. Cost wise it works out about 5 bucks a gallon cheaper than the -100 stuff I used to use.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Built an outdrive stand out of an old wooden dolly and some 2x4's. Not even close to being a work of art, but it works.



I cleaned up the ujoints and inspected them. No play, smooth feel, and the seals all look good. Not sure if it'll help, but I coated everything in oil to help prevent corrosion. Also lubed the prop and input shafts and oiled the o-rings. I'll change the fluid and then it'll just be a matter of touching up a few spots and then putting it back on the boat.

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2006 Four Winns Horizon 200
Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi/SX

You da man. I got one I made like that. 4 wheels on it so I can roll it inside or to the boat. They are handy.

My winterizer is coming tonight. My brother is bringing it back. So I imagine i be doing that tomorrow. Drain the tractors gas. Let what is in the carb run out. Then tarp it up for the winter.

One thing i am tickled about with the new carport. Both the truck and the boat are leaf free. And the trees are dropping them fast. I got 2 trees out there almost leaf free. I have mulched twice.

Good work there! If you keep this up you can make any I/O boat last a long time esp because you are in fresh water which is much easier on everything. As much as I/Os have a poor reputation in salt water I’ve been able to make mine last a really long time just by keeping up on these simple tasks. In the salt we need to do the R+R if the drive yearly, and exhaust system maintenance every 5-7 years. Neglecting those things seems to cause the most problems.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I did the deed. It is going to be 31 this week. not a panic but it is time. I used the minus 60 stuff. Ran it till the gauge was full operating temp. switched to the winterizer from the hose. Then one it was empty stalled it with the stuff you spray in the carb. Then overkill guy I am. I drained everything.

I was real happy seeing the color coming out of the block was full strength. Then I cleaned the bilge out. put 2 covers on it. Put it in the new carport. and put tarps on the sides the direction the wind blows snow from. Sleeping beauty is slumbering.

I had a cheapo temp sender. bump the wire it quit working. So I took it out and ordered a new factory equipment one. I got a spot to buff up some in the spring. Where the color gelcoat. Which I got shining as well ans the chevelles paint is a little dull where the bumper moves and it hits the dock. It is a nice vynal dock so no damage just took the sine out a little. Cant see it unless you sitting in a chair waxing it. And I was doing just that for the winter slumber,

Mental note for spring 3000 and buff that spot LOL

I drain mine poke all the drain holes and then just back fill thru the hoses. I leave the AF in, the corrosion inhibitors and keeping air out is the whole advantage of using AF. Otherwise just drain.
That’s why I use either -100 or Sierra pg mixed 50/50. No worries about it getting hard with our winter temps. Lowest here is about zero* F.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Mother nature is a little friskier here. -20 a couple weeks.

Out of water, waxed and waiting for service and shrink wrap. Hey clownfish where is -20. C or Farenheight? In NY its going to be in the 60"s today.

I would use -100 and leave it in, won't freeze till approx. -55*F.

Think about it, you have a/f in your vehicles, all you do is make sure its mixed to protect down to your lowest anticipated temp and you leave it in!

I honestly think if you're going to use AF its a waste of money to use then drain it out. If you read Merc's shop manuals they say you need to drain to protect against freezing and add AF only to reduce corrosion. So draining it out, defeats the purpose.....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Okay problem is they do not sell anything local except the 50 below stuff. My reasoning is this. If just draining the water is fine. Then there is pockets of water in there. I would rather have pockets of antifreeze.

If as you say draining if fine. I am not looking to take it in the rear paying stupid prices for this stuff. I paid 18 bucks for 6 gallons. I looked and they absolutely gonna rape you if you buy the peak stuff. West marine is the cheapest I found for that stuff with shipping. And they are not cheap they want 4X what it is worth if it was sold locally at all.

I don't make the rules I just got to do what I got to. I am using what everybody is forced to here. I thought about the corrosion thing. This anti freeze don't have it. But what my brother said made sense. What is in it all year. Ohio river water. That is the nastiest thing in the world. Nice clean antifreeze it a treat for this engine.

I just want my boat to not freeze not be a victim of "Marine" Price gouging. Some of this stuff is a flat joke. 13 bucks a gallon for the peak concentrate "IF" they would sell it to you. I can do that. A hundred a case or 30 a gallon plus shipping they can KMA my boat with be fine. It made it 30 years so far.

If you can find Sierra brand PG antifreeze, a gallon is about $15. You mix it 50/50 and that drops the price to $7.50 a gallon. This is a true engine coolant with corrosion inhibitors.
The issue with the -50 and the -60 is they get hard between 7 and 12 degrees above zero. So leaving it in where you are, if you get -20 would be too risky I would agree. While Ohio river water might be nasty, our salt water is real corrosive. A painted trailer is never seen round here, they would last about 5 years. So if you have a raw water cooled cast iron engine, it makes sense to do what you can, to reduce corrosion. In fresh water you never replace manifolds, correct? Here it's an every 5-7 year event. And if you push it, you can wind up with water in a cyl.
So different strategies for different environments.
When I eventually re-power this boat, it will for sure have a closed cooling system. That makes the engine last about 2x as long and it runs at the temp GM intended. And is easier to winterize by far.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II