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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:59 am 
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2007 200 Horiz
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Location: Lake Murray, SC
Hey,

Hope everyone had a great winter and are as excited as I am to get back on the water?

So we just purchased a slip and we have a few questions. I have been reading through the forum to try and get some of them answered but with no luck so far.

Okay so here it goes. The slip is a U-shape for two boats side by side and there are only 2 cleats on your side of the U. The dock has two side boards with little to no protection/bumper guards and a single post in the front where the bow would be. I would think since the single board is there backing in wouldn’t be a smart idea. But willing to try anything to make sure the boat is safe and secure.

My question then is, how would you secure the boat to the dock with only two cleats on one side? Would a cross be the best approach, the front cleat on the boat ties to the back cleat on the dock and the opposite for the other cleat and a few good sized fenders? I would look around at the other boats but the subdivision was just completed so the amount of owners is still pretty low.

Sorry for the lengthy post and any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:17 pm 
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Location: North Bay, Ontario Canada
We have the same situation at our marina.

We have done as you had mentioned, two lines crossing, then two lines directly out from the dock cleats to the boat cleats. The idea is that the crossing lines help to stop the boat from sliding back-and-forth along the dock, and the direct (short) lines keep the boat from getting too far from the dock.

If your marina would install another cleat for you, I would have a third cleat installed on your finger pier around midship, and instead of running crossing lines, run from the center out so that you can run one line forward, one line aft. With this set-up, you also still need the two short lines.

In both cases, 3 good sized fenders between the boat and dock should do the trick. We also hang fenders on the open side of the boat, just incase your neighbor is having a bad day getting their boat in :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:25 pm 
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Sounds great.

Are you leaving the fenders on the dock or are you taking them? If you are leaving them are you using normal rope to tie them to the dock or something special so people can't just slip them off and take them?

What type of fenders did you purchase or have for the dock? Do you hang them horizontal or vertical? Also, do you have covers for them or you haven’t seen them mark the boat? Have been looking at Taylor, Survivor Super Guard, through West Marine.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:47 pm 
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No one can really give you a GOOD answer till they know if its a floating or non dock, if its a consent level body of water, if its protected or not.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:24 pm 
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It is a Floating Dock. During the summer time frame the water stays pretty normal, of around 4 to 6 feet below the boat, but can depend on the company who manages the damn.
I would say it is fairly protected with an island just off the dock and the slip I have is between two other sections. But, since it was just finished I really don’t know how weather, boats or the dock itself is affected.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:25 pm 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
I do almost the same as chrisvs.
One line each at bow and stern, straight to dock cleats. Then 2 spring lines, front dock cleat to midships cleat, then back to rear dock cleat. This is the most secure way of mooring in any conditions.
I have 3 fenders (West Marine "Taylors") on the boat, not the dock and also have 3 fenders out on the open side.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 2:33 pm 
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Agreed Txjole, I assumed that it was a floating dock, as ours is too. We all know what happens when we assume....
The plan of attack would have been different for a fixed dock and tidal situation.

We are using the standard taylor (non ribbed) fenders without any socks on them, hanging vertical from the boat. They do leave a bit of a rub mark on the boat; I don't know if there is any way around that. Anyhow, I have managed to buff out most of the rub marks that the bumpers have made. We take the fenders and store them in the boat while under way.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 2:52 pm 
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Thanks for all of the information everyone.

Will have to see how it goes after this weekend.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 6:52 pm 
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Completely agree with Chris on all points, especially his last one about the slip neighbors. The times I've had to share a double slip, I've been FAR more worried about the other boat than anything else.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:30 pm 
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Yup, your neighbors can scare the bajesus out of you. Last year at the beginning of the season we had a 24ft pontoon boat pull in beside us... here is my brand new boat with this beast beside us, with maybe 2-3 ft to spare. I had visions of the spray deflector, sticking out from the 'toon, leaving a titanic-sinking tear along the gunnel of my new baby!!!! :shock:

Fortunately it was only there for a week, then a shiny new 200ss in sunset orange took it's place. 8)

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 10:49 am 
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Thanks for all of the help.

I have another question. Does anyone use any products to reduce the stress on the cleats.dock and boat from the movement?
There is one on Overtons that is like a rubber piece that you wrap the rope through and around. Is this something that I should look into or are there other better products?

Thanks

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:35 am 
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That's called a snubber. They can be the greatest thing ever invented, or worthless, depending on your slip, your boat, how exposed your location is, etc.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:37 am 
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I use line savers on the cruiser but not on the 20 footer.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:42 pm 
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I keep our old 88 on a rotating mooring behind my house. Make sure you test your auto bilge pump switch. This is something that is easy to overlook, but you want to make sure it works reliably. And I'd consider putting in a bigger capacity battery, just in case you get water through the cover or the transom develops a leak (which can and does happen, esp with I/Os). I have seen 4 boats sink during a period of very heavy rain for over a week. Most went down because of inadequate bilge pumps, stuck switches that killed batteries, or inadequate to start with batteries.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:15 am 
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LouC wrote:
I keep our old 88 on a rotating mooring behind my house. Make sure you test your auto bilge pump switch. This is something that is easy to overlook, but you want to make sure it works reliably. And I'd consider putting in a bigger capacity battery, just in case you get water through the cover or the transom develops a leak (which can and does happen, esp with I/Os). I have seen 4 boats sink during a period of very heavy rain for over a week. Most went down because of inadequate bilge pumps, stuck switches that killed batteries, or inadequate to start with batteries.


I'd add that a second battery, and back up bilge pump wouldn't be overkill. Here's a good reference on the subject:

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/bilge_pumps.htm

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