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| Anchor mod. question https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2065 |
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| Author: | bhurley [ Tue Jun 17, 2008 9:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | Anchor mod. question |
I have a question about the fortress anchor. I have a FX11 that I use as my stern anchor for the sand bar and coves. It is the best anchor I have ever used. It catches too well sometime. I have had to get directly above it at times because of how it grabbed. When I am not using it I have it in a canvas zipped bag with the chain and rope so that it is manageable in the boat. My question is what would happen if I cut down the shaft 4 or 5 inches (rod on the bottom of the anchor). That would make it easier to get in and out of the bag. I just don’t want to do something that will impact how well the anchor works. Thanks in advance Bill |
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| Author: | Jim_R [ Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Anchor mod. question |
I'm guessing that the manuf. would want to modify the anchor as such if it would reduce costs (less material) and not impact performance. You could always call them and ask. |
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| Author: | bhurley [ Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Anchor mod. question |
Fortress says not to. Back to the drawing board. Thanks Bill |
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| Author: | jrcinnh [ Tue Jun 17, 2008 7:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Anchor mod. question |
I have 13 lb tie down danforth clone that i modified for rear anchor duty. I cut the shank, where the rode attaches, to be just long enough to attach a rode. This made the anchor 5 inches shorter. This didn't seem to a negative effect. It still set pretty well. Then I cut off the stabilizer rod on both sides. This is the round rod that goes across the wide part of the flukes. I cut it even with the flukes. This had a detremental effect on setting. In sand it will try to set but then will just twist out. Don't do this. I still use it at sand bars where I can set it by foot or in deep water where it will catch on something. I did this so the anchor would fit into a locker. On the new boat I have to figure something else. I also have a 4.4 lb claw that I use as a throwing anchor. Works really nice if you can get scope or in the rocks. Someone on the Winni board suggested it, it's helpful but not a universal solution. BTW if you see a 358 anchored between Timber and Mark its me. |
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| Author: | wkearney99 [ Tue Jun 17, 2008 8:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Anchor mod. question |
Part of the reason for the long shank on the anchor is to help get it to set and then keep it set. That's why you use some portion of chain and then a lot of line. The length of the shank and the weight of the chain serve to keep the anchor's angle aligned along the bottom so it can get a bite. If you shorten the shank you're going to present problems with that. Same deal with not using enough (or any) chain. The line alone is not heavy enough to keep the point of the anchor pulling downward into the bottom material. |
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| Author: | bhurley [ Wed Jun 18, 2008 5:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Anchor mod. question |
Thanks Bill. The part I wanted to cut is the horizontal piece below the flukes. |
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