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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2019 11:12 pm 
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Anyone install a remote start on their boat? Would sure make the flush out process easy and bypass need for multiple climbs in and out of boat.

Trying to think of reason it wouldn't be wise and can't come up with any....figure if set to only start in neutral as with standard start all should be good.

Thoughts?

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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2019 8:11 am 
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What about blower is activated and on for more than 4 minutes and your gas fume detector is not alarming. That would be a tough one I think.
Unless you have an outboard.

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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2019 10:00 pm 
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The blower kills the deal...will just buy an aluminum ladder and make the climb easier I reckon.

The transom tilt switch will help though. I have to be on ground to ensure hose doesn't kink when I lower the drive....the muffs line up with trailer frame when drive is down so its prone to kink the water hose.

I could just use the water flush tube in engine compartment..but have been concerned about integrity of that system for running the engine. I can't just run water thru it since thermostat would stay closed.

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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 7:08 am 
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I believe you have to use the muffs and can't run the engine through the flush connection on the trailer. I could be wrong so check the manual. If I remember it can't keep a prime because there is open air on one side instead of lake water providing a vacuum.
I would recommend getting a good hose, even if it is only 10' that won't kink and before you get up on the boat start the hose with the trim down.
I sometimes use a plastic barrel cut down and fill it with water. then stick the hose in it to keep it full. That's another option.

And yes, a good ladder is always a good idea. Makes quick up and down much safer too.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2019 3:43 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
TX H210SS wrote:
The blower kills the deal...will just buy an aluminum ladder and make the climb easier I reckon.

The transom tilt switch will help though. I have to be on ground to ensure hose doesn't kink when I lower the drive....the muffs line up with trailer frame when drive is down so its prone to kink the water hose.

I could just use the water flush tube in engine compartment..but have been concerned about integrity of that system for running the engine. I can't just run water thru it since thermostat would stay closed.

What's the problem with the integrity of the water flush tube in the engine compartment ? It's merely a T (actually a Y) piece on the inlet side of the water pump. I used that when flushing the engine on land for 10 years on my 2004 Sundowner with no issues. Yes, some water from the hose goes back to the outdrive but the suction of the raw water pump ensures plenty more goes into the engine (heat exchanger if fitted).


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