www.iFourWinns.com

So, I decided to call my local VP dealers to inquire about winterizing costs since I don't know if I'm ready to tackle the job.

Well, it turned out to be an unpleasant experience because one uses "the pink stuff" and the other doesn't. I've read many threads regarding this topic and I guess both ways can be correct if done properly. It just pisses me off that you try and talk to a shop and they start bad mouthing the other guy because he doesn't know what he's doing and they're not doing things by the book etc...

I don't know what by the book is because I don't own the service manual. They're both respectable shops that have been in business many years. The shop that doesn't use anti-freeze charges $120 and the one that does charges $180. The charges also include fogging the system and adding fuel stabilizer..that's it.

If you want them to make sure all points are lubricated, etc... that will cost ya $85 an hour plus parts. I asked how much to change the oil and neither one of them could answer that question except to quote their shop rate again. That turns me off a little because I know they've done this a couple times but it is what it is.

I guess I'll pay the cheaper guy to drain the system and take care of the other two things next month just to protect myself. It's not like we have months of freezing temps here but it will be worth not worrying about not doing something right. I'll have more time to read and educate myself on the rest of the maintenance items that need to be taken care of before next season.

Like I said, it's just aggravating having a not so positive experience. You trust these guys will do the right thing and stand by their work..oh well, that's life.

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2006 Four Winns H210 - 5.0 GXi/SX

In the Pacific Northwest, using 'pink' is not common practice for winterizing. We rarely get below freezing, and when we do, it's not for weeks at a time (like other parts of the country).

Draining the system (when done correctly), is always sufficient in a mild winter climate. The key is getting it done correctly.

The pink is an added layer of protection and is really needed in extremely cold climates where below freezing temps are much more significant. It's really not tough to do.

You're looking at 10-15 bucks for a couple gallons of pink... and another 30-50 for the peices to do it.

If you can get pink'd for 60 bucks... that might be worth the general peace of mind that you can pretty much guarantee that you won't have any cracking of the block issues. Pretty cheap insurance. It will take you 2-3 hours start to finish to pink, fog, and sta-bil. This includes prep and clean up probably. If you are getting a bid fo 180 bucks... that's not too bad.

Maybe this year you have it winterized, but you become a pro at the lube/oil/filter for the engine & drive. Then next year, you will take on the winterizing?

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2008 318 Vista -SOLD, but I am still around!
All Night Long, Seattle WA

...been there. Especially frustrating as that first winter approached. I got lots of different stories and finally went with the place who was most dedicated to Volvo-Penta. Probably paid a little more, but so far so good, going into the fifth winter with them....(but hey, we've still got a good solid month of boating left!)... They do it all, except anti-freeze in the fresh water system. I do that before I take it there......they do the fogging, remove, store and charge the batteries, remove and service the outdrive, and oil change in the spring. I know I could do some of those things, but it's just as well and not that much more to have them do it along with the shrink wrap.

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JustBreathe
'05 230 Horizon

Yeah, I have a bad back and I don't see myself trying to remove the plugs to drain the block and manifolds. Maybe they're not that hard to get but I'm not sure right now....I'll take a look this weekend and see if I can locate them. I would like to be able to perform most maintenance as I need to replace the filters, plugs and impeller in the spring along with the oil/lube so we'll see.

If I could pink it and not have to worry about draining the engine maybe that would be the best route even thought it may not be necessary in my area it will save my back. I think I can pour the stabilizer in the tank and fill her up and fogging doesn't look difficult.

Yep, we still have another month to play!

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2006 Four Winns H210 - 5.0 GXi/SX

Do it yourself. I just drain the block, take out all drain plugs, and remove the lower hose from the water pump. Put it all back together, and remove the hoses at the thermostat housing. Fill it up with the pink stuff til it dumps out the outdrive. You'll be good to go, and no worries about if the thermostat opened up or not. Do this last, after you've changed out all your fluids. It'll be good to get familiar with where everything is on your boat, because breakdowns happen. It can't hurt to be familiar with your engine.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

I just paid $200 to have mine done, which included oil change, filter, water separator, drive gear oil, -100 anti freeze, fuel stabilizer, winterizing drive & engine. It's probably something I could do myself, but I don't want to risk not doing something right and would probably take me 10x as long.

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-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

I guess I get to do more reading as my motor is 5.0 GXi-F. According to the Operator's Manual, F designates a closed cooling system. This may not change anything but I remember seeing posts regarding this...

Thanks for all the replies. I have a month to get this figured out.

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2006 Four Winns H210 - 5.0 GXi/SX

Wow, if that's all it cost here I wouldn't be having this discussion..haha

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2006 Four Winns H210 - 5.0 GXi/SX

I use an independent/certified mechanic, not through a dealer.

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-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

Man - I wish I could get mine done at that price Rob - great value. In Oz we pay many times that amount!

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

The manual was misleading about the closed cooling system...FF engines have this not F. It's officially time to put the manual down, walk away and get some sleep..haha

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2006 Four Winns H210 - 5.0 GXi/SX

Winterizing here cost an arm and yer leg. Buy a clymer's shop manual and do some reading. Boating is expensive enough, you gotta save where you can. Doing the maint. and winterizing isn't that difficult. Just take your time and do it right.

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

And yet another opinion........ ( me with an opinion ? hard to believe )

I had winterized our cuddy cabin boat for 9 years myself. Living in Michigan, we get some very cold weather, and our boat was stored outside, under a tarp. Here is all I did.
I have never used pink, only standard yellow/green automotive anti-freeze. I put the muffs on the outdrive, connected a piece of hose with fitting on one end, and funnel on the other.
Started the motor, let it come up to temp, and poured in a gallon or two of the anti-freeze into the funnel, let it run through until it started to come out the exhaust in the hub. Done.
Never drained the block, never pulled any plugs or hoses, and never spent more than $20 for the whole 15 minutes of winterizing. Most people around here do the exact same thing, and I have NEVER heard of any issues occuring. It is really all you need to do. For reference, our old boat is still owned by the same guy that bought it 5 years ago, is now 20 years old, he winterizes it the same way, and it is still running excellent. I never fogged that engine, and I would not fog one today, especially an EFI motor.

You can have a dealer service it if you choose to spend the money. I would never go that route myself, it's not necessary IMO.

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

+ 1 on that Cap'n

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1992 Baja 38 Special Twin 502 Mags

03 Stingray 3.0
88 261 Liberator 460 King Cobras
95 Bayliner 1850 3.0
77 Fiber Form 20ft 350/385hp
70 Wescraft 1800 SS 455 Jet

Lead, Follow, or get the Hell out of the Way!

Cap'n Morgan, probably a stupid question but first winterize here and your system sounds good to me. I understand the funnel end of your setup but where does the other end of the funnel tube go? Do you stick it inside the muffs so the antifreeze mixes with house water? OR- do you warm up engine on house water (muffs) then shut off engine and house water, connect antifreeze to drive, start engine, and let afreeze circulate? Also do you use straight antifreeze or diluted? Thanks

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2003 Four Winns Horizon 210
VP 5.0 GXI SX
"THE GREEN HORNET"