www.iFourWinns.com

The guy I spoke with this morning about setting up my appointment asked me if I want them to change the engine and lower unit oil when they winterize it. I told them I would have to let them know. I only put maybe, and I stress maybe, 10 hours on the boat this season and didn't know if it was truly necessary to have it done again this year. I did have those things done at the end of the boating season last year, and it seems like it may be uncessary to have done again after putting so few hours on it. Any thoughts? Thanks!

I know what I would do.

_________________
One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

I guess it all depends on whether or not your boat was in a slip this summer. Does your boat have a history of water intrusion? Have you ever had any water-related problems? How old is your boat? Type of engine?

It does seem like a waste of money with only 10 hrs of use...

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2008 H220 Frenzy - 5.7L VP SX Drive
2013 Tahoe LTZ Tow Vehicle (admiral's ride)
2011 Ford F150 XLT Ecoboost Tow Vehicle

I would at least change lower unit oil just in case there would be any water in it.

_________________
1998 Baja Boss 252 7.4L MPI Bravo 1 (SOLD)
2007 FW H200SS 5.0GXI (Sold)
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500 Crew 6.0L (tow vehicle)
1991 FW 170 Freedom 4.3L (SOLD)

+1 on 07H200SS with changing the gear lube. That's in the water all the time relying on seals and orings to keep the water out.

_________________
Bryan Mutter

http://www.twincitymarine.com
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I didn't change my 248s drive oil at the end of last season, it was in the water for 5 months.. I probably should have for peace of mind but I didn't and it was fine.

Change the engine AND drive oil after every season...no matter if you us it 1 or 100 hours.

+1 and you won't need to worry about bringing it in mid-season for standard maintenance next year.

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-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

As for motor oil, the oil absorbs moisture out of the atmosphere, that's why they always recommend changing after so many miles/hours of use or at the end of some time frame. You recall hearing, 3000 miles or 3 months, for your car?
Well the same would be true for a boat motor. My volvo manual says every year or 100 hours.

But its really up to you, what gives you peace of mind, thicker wallet or knowing you have good clean oil???

_________________
2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
Videos

just talked to my dealer about winterizing. He said to do the winterize now and then before boating season do the oil on the outdrive and engine. They will also start it up and get it ready to go. In the winter it is just going to sit in my garage

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Dennis

2007 H190
4.3 liter
Seattle WA

I do not like that answer. Why let the contaminated oil sit in the engine and outdrive all winter?

Exactly. I was just reading some infor this morning about changing oil etc...on Westmarine.com and they also suggest changing fluids BEFORE storage to make sure there are no/less contaminates in the fluids while its layed up.

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Current Boat:
2004 Sea Ray 320 Sundancer "Nauti Luvin'"

Previous Boats:
1999 298 Vista "Seas The Day"
2008 H200SS "Nauti Luv"
2006 Tahoe Q4

Water kills!

1st you want to change the out drive lube every year; doing this will insure that the oil is clean and is not “milky” in appearance. “Milky” oil means water seeped into the lower unit and the seals and possibly the bearings will need to be replaced.

2nd, as was stated in an earlier post change the oil and oil filter as well as your fuel filter. Water in any of these areas will also cause damage

In any event doing this in the fall can help get you out on the water next spring sooner.

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“Growing Older, But Not Up”
[

2008 Four Winns V248
2004 Stingray 220CS

thanks for the advice. Sounds like it is better to do it all now. I will have them winterize, change oil and filter on motor. Outdrive oil change and fuel water seperator. Am I missing anything? I only have 39 hrs on the boat.

Thanks for all the help!!

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Dennis

2007 H190
4.3 liter
Seattle WA

I can really understand the reasoning about changing the drive lubricant every year, regardless of hours run, due the the potential for water contamination.

However (as a chemist) I don't understand why a hydrocarbon like engine oil , let alone a synthetic one would absorb water!

Yes, it has additives to absorb the acidic by products of combustion
Yes, it has detergents to clean off deposits from combustion

The life of those are purely mileage / engine hours related, not age related.

Why on earth would a modern synthetic engine need to be changed after 10 hours use? Changing an engine oil every 3000 miles is unheard of in Europe, unless your use something like a vegetable oil based product like "Castrol R" because you like the smell that rally car had in the 1960s ! European engine manufacturers recommend changing synthetic oil every 12,500 to 15,000 miles, or even longer.)

Graham