www.iFourWinns.com

One more question since what the manual and layup guides say are different from what every winterization website and forum say. The Volvo Penta literature says nothing about fogging the engine for the winter lay-up. It actually states that as long as you use a quality motor oil, there is no need to fog during a normal lay-up period. Likewise, the Kohler genset manual outlines the winterization process and makes no mention of fogging. Since both are gas engines I would assume the need to fog or not fog would be similiar.

However, just about every forum and winterization "how-to" site says the opposite and that fogging is necessary. I'm inclined to believe the product manual would know what it's talking about but I'm no expert. I think there may have been a time in the past when fogging was necessary but with modern marine engines that time has passed but the tradition of fogging has lived on. But again...I'm no expert, that's just my uneducated theory.

Here's my basic train of thought....I've never fogged a lawn motor engine, lawn tractor engine, snow blower engine, or even a car engine if the car was going to be parked for months at a time. What makes a marine engine different and requires it to be fogged?

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'01 Vista 298

There is no difference. It would have a lot greater chance of getting rust in the cylinders if it's setting on the lift in the hot summer. I don't recall having humidity a BIG problem in the winter.

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1992 Baja 38 Special Twin 502 Mags

03 Stingray 3.0
88 261 Liberator 460 King Cobras
95 Bayliner 1850 3.0
77 Fiber Form 20ft 350/385hp
70 Wescraft 1800 SS 455 Jet

Lead, Follow, or get the Hell out of the Way!

Agree, but I guess the possibility of salt in the air and in the water in your area might lead some to tell you to do it. I've always followed the theory that stabilized fuel run the through the engine is as good as old-school fogging. Never fogged ANY engine I've had either.

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Paul
2007 Four Winns Horizon 220
Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI w/ Bravo III Drive
2004 Ford Explorer Limited (V8-AWD)
Pomme de Terre Lake (Southwest Missouri)

I think part of the confusion comes from the fact that marine engines were all carbed but are quickly becoming mostly injected. Fogging an injected engine is a more involved process (when done properly) and I think most people are getting away from doing it. If you pour fogging oil down the intake of an injected engine (like was common on carb engines), its likely that most of the oil will just sit in the intake because there isn't enough air flowing to move it into the cylinders. At least, that's my understanding.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

18 years of boating in the midwest, never have fogged any engine before winter layup either.

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

It's a point of disagreement, I never fogged my yard equipment and some of my machines are more than 20 years old and run fine...but they sit in the garage, not out in the elements like the boat does. I can tell you this, since I store the boat in the driveway, here winter temps range from 55 or so all the way down to zero, sometimes very dry sometimes very damp and I have seen the engine 'sweating' with condensation of warmer humid air on a cold engine. So it probably is possible to get rust in the cylinders under the right weather conditions (cold followed by warmer, damp air). I'd do whatever the manufacturer tells you to do, I know it's a bit more complex to fog an injected engine than a carbed one. You could always take out the spark plugs and spray fogging oil in the cylinders, but that's not as good as spraying it down the carb since it won't coat the intake valves....

I think it depends on your climate, some areas are very dry in the winter, we are in a coastal region, its damp all year, mildew is a big problem on houses that are shaded by trees, un protected steel and cast iron rust in no time, damp, salt air....

I do fog mine as per the manual and for people that might not use their boat for several years, I'd definitely do it then, since the engine could rust up over that much time...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Most every professional engine builder will tell you that there is no reason to fog unless it will be in extended storage. That is also the same theory my marina subscribes to. By extended storage I mean a year or more.

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Brian Borchik
The Winds of Cold Springs Harbor Marina
Baldwinsville, NY

When any engine is going to set for more than a year, the fogging is the least of the worries. Every seal will be in danger. Valve seals and crank seals will be cause for a engine refresh at least.

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1992 Baja 38 Special Twin 502 Mags

03 Stingray 3.0
88 261 Liberator 460 King Cobras
95 Bayliner 1850 3.0
77 Fiber Form 20ft 350/385hp
70 Wescraft 1800 SS 455 Jet

Lead, Follow, or get the Hell out of the Way!

If you think of an engine as an air pump, the same amount of air is going through the motor whether it is FI or carb'd at given RPM.

It is true that the FI is using less Fuel due to computer controlling exact fuel delivery based on many parameters.

As for Fogging motors, I am a believer in Fogging if motor is to be stored longer than 30 days, OR run motor once every 30 (or so) day to operating temp to recoat entire system with motor oil.
Do many of us get away with out either method, yes, does it really matter? none of us are looking for ultimate life or performance for racing. We will get sufficient motor life and performance with minor and regular maint.
Basically, do whatever makes you feel good about proper care of your boat motor. I also believe that more important than fogging, would be to store motor with fresh oil, dont let well used oil sit in motor for length of time, acids and moisture in used oil are what are going to do most of the damage.

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2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
Videos

I don't disagree, and see the logic on both sides. It's just one more thing that contributes to the fogging controversy.

I got fogged for the first few years but not for the last couple. I've seen no reason (so far) to believe it's hurting anything not to. If I was storing for longer than one off-season, I'd fog, but I'd probably do it through the plug ports.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Like I said, I think you have to go by the climate you are in. If your off season climate is damp, with frequent temperature swings, then fogging really makes sense. If you have consistent winter temps and low humidity then the need is not so great. Unprotected cast iron rusts fast around here so I do think it's needed and I would fog an FI engine if I had one. This all assumes outside even though covered storage, if you can store inside, then more than likely the humidity is going to be a lot less...

I use a lot of Corrosion X and Boeshield, and Triple Guard grease to keep my old tub rust free and running well...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I wonder what the factory manual says about fogging and the new catalyst engines.

Greg

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2008 210SS 6.2L DTS Bravo 1 Now featuring MercMonitor w/SmartTow

Ask and ye shall receive. Thanks.

Greg

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2008 210SS 6.2L DTS Bravo 1 Now featuring MercMonitor w/SmartTow