www.iFourWinns.com

I left the battery switch on both and something on and the batteries died. I can't lift the engine hatch since they are completely dead. Is there another way to get into the engine compartment to charge the batteries. I can't access the hatch at all, I tried to lift it and that is impossible. I was thinking of taking apart the battery selector and trying to hook a battery jumper to it but I am not sure if that would work. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

It may be easier to access the helm power under the dash. Hook up a small battery charger (no more than 10A) across the helm main + (Red?) and - (Yellow). Let it charge for an hour or two, then should be enough juice to operate the engine hatch. I do NOT know if the main helm CB is protected from reverse-power. If so, this would not work.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

In addition to this, Take a cig. lighter power adapter (from wal mart, radio shack, anywhere) (you know a plug that plugs into the cig. lighter or power port) and leave a pigtail on it. strip the wires and plug it in a hook a small charger to it. Then when you are done store it in the glove box in case this ever happens again.


picture here:
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/25910-removing-batteries-and-closing-engine-hatch

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'90 Horizon 220 5.8

Where is your battery selector switch? If like my Baja it was under the engine hatch witch was the first mod I made to the boat and moved it to under the back seat in case the batteries went dead not allowing the hatch to lift. My boat though also had a remote positive and negative terminal under the back seat for just this reason. Doesn't FW also have a remote terminal some where for just this reason? If not bad idea on there part.

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1998 Baja Boss 252 7.4L MPI Bravo 1 (SOLD)
2007 FW H200SS 5.0GXI (Sold)
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500 Crew 6.0L (tow vehicle)
1991 FW 170 Freedom 4.3L (SOLD)

I had a boat with those electric screw jacks on the hatch a few years ago, I just pulled hard and there was enough space where I could pull a lock pin out of the jack and open it manually. No other way to do it when I took the batteries out for winter storage

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2006 Vista 248 5.7DP - SOLD
2011 Crownline E6 - SOLD
2007 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer

Did they change the design somehow? On mine, I can muscle the engine hatch up and there is a support rod that I can use to hold it up. Yes, the hatch is heavy, but maybe ask a friend to help out?

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2002 Funship 214
VP 5.7 GX Si
2003 Tahoe

I second the notion that you can just lift it. The one on our 348 is VERY HEAVY but can be lifted.

I've since noted it's possible to put power back into the system through the cockpit 12v outlet. Not a lot as the wiring isn't rated for much current, but enough to power the hatch lift. Just get an accessory outlet (cigarette type plug) to terminals adapter. Then clip on the leads from a jumpstart box. Being VERY careful not to let the clips slip or pop loose and short the connection, of course.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I've lifted mine but I hope like hell I never have to do it again.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Thanks for all the help I am going to try the cigarette option first then the hooking up to cables under dash also not going to give up on pulling it slow what a total pain why wouldn't they have a battery post setup inside the rear seat where the battery switch is for just this kind of situation it seems so simple to me and it would be no more than twenty dollars more in the price of the boat to get that in there.

As far as lifting it I tried and it wouldn't budge and I am a strong person. I know it's the battery and not the electric actuators because it lifted two or three inches and stopped. And the lights went out also

Probably a good time to consider an on-board battery charger also. There are several threads on here about that topic. I have a pro-sport dual battery charger and it works out great. I have the charger in the engine compartment and the power cord fed into the port side storage under the seat. Your layout would be different, but you get the idea. When I get home, I plug it in and always have full charge when I need it.

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2002 Funship 214
VP 5.7 GX Si
2003 Tahoe

So what was the final outcome, did you get it opened? Like how much harder is it to open the hatch manually, why would you ever want an electrically operated hatch when the batteries are below that hatch?

Even though the batteries on the SL are in two seperate compartments, I know I made a wise choice when I opted not to get the electric operated hatch, or the thru hull exhaust. The only option I screwed up on was not getting the arch

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2011 SL242 5.7 VP GXi - 320 HP Dual Prop

The gas lifts they use on the smaller models, come in various levels of pounds, I wonder if they could be retrofitted to the electric lift models as a back up, I know they for sure make it much easier to lift the heavy sun pad mine has, because when I got the boat the original ones were long gone. It was like a weight lifting even to check the oil! I think I used a pair of 60 lb units and its easy now....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Haven't been able to resolve the issue on the boat since unforeseen circumstances have kept me busy and without any time to get to the boat. As soon as I get some time hopefully this weekend I will let you all know how I finally get this resolved. Thanks for all the tips I really appreciate all the help. I so want to take the boat out this weekend since conditions are going to be excellent in Key Largo. I will keep you all posted thanks again.

Seems a retrograde step to put the batteries underneath a cover that needs the batteries to be charged in order to lift the cover, with no other way to lift it; my 2004 boat has astandard FW electric lift, the actuator is not directly attached to the engine cover. A rigid PVC tube it attached to the engine cover, the actuator fits inside that tube via a slot along it's length. Normally, the end of the actuator is at the top of the slot, so when it extends the lid is raised. If the motor fails or the batteries are flat, the cover can be lifted taking the PVC tube upwards with it, the end of the actuator sliding along the slot in the PVC tube.

It would be a pretty easy thing to make at home with a router and some rigid PVC water pipe.( thats what FW used !)

Graham.