Really good question about winterizng in FL

ric · **Posted:** Sat Nov 19, 2011 9:35 am

As you guys know, I keep my boat in the water 99% of the time. The water temps here never dip below 60's in my lake but the air temp here does dip in the 20's a few times a year at night and I find myself scraping ice off the windshield randomly.

Is this something I have to worry about?

LouC · **Posted:** Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:39 pm

Hard to say, but if you had an IR temp measuring gun, you could shoot the temp of the block and see what it says. I bet the windshield cools off much faster than the block does. If you want to be on the safe side you could always drain the block and manifold(s). With the water temp that high, I bet you would never had a problem, people here leave boats in the water with 45 degree water temps all the time.

ric · **Posted:** Sat Nov 19, 2011 1:12 pm

I have 120v, maybe slap on a block heater or put a warming lamp in the engine bay?

TX H210SS · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am **Posts:** 1488

didnt you just pull her out of the water for the winter? water will help insulate boat if water is 60 degrees....if boat out of water then yes - you need to winterize the boat. Temps here are about the same as in FL and i keep my boat covered and in storage unit....i still winterize and drain all water out of boat. can't count on electricity, cuz if power fails, bulb goes out or heater trips breaker then your screwed. plus lying in bed wondering about all these issues. better to do it while weather is nice than be out there in freezing temps with numb fingers.

aguyindallas · **Posted:** Sat Nov 19, 2011 3:43 pm

Many many many boats burn down each year due to warming lamps. If you are REALLY worried, spend a few bucks and get an ignition proof, coast guard approved bilge heater.

TX H210SS · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am **Posts:** 1488

personally - with a boat the size of your and my boat - it's too easy to pull them out and drain the water and be done with it. Keep treated fuel in tank, pull plugs and hoses and re-attach and your done. you will have the other anual maintenance to do anyway, so now is a good time to get it knocked out.

really, the water draining only takes 10 minutes.

Winter Sux · **Posted:** Sun Nov 20, 2011 5:39 pm

You"ll be fine ric. If you remember high school physics, the law of heat transfer is from hot to cold. With your drive and hull in 60 degree water, a breif dip to 20 will never penetrate enough to even slush-up the water. Even on the trailer, you'd have nothing to worry about overnight. If you're really concerned, I back up what aguyindallas recommends :wink:

John

TX H210SS · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am **Posts:** 1488

I agree if left in the water you will be fine.....but respectfully disagree with it being on the trailer. Last year it dipped to the 20's here for the cold and stayed below freezing for two days. I am in South Texas....i watched a 1 year old Crownline get a 5.7 VP pulled with a 4" crack in the block.

Boat mechanic said he had several to work on with cracked blocks or manifolds. I personally think it's too simple to dump the water to not do it if you have it on the trailer. Actually, about the same time as cranking up the computer and reading this thread. If you want some inspiration - check out the price of a short block crate engine and a set of new manifolds.

I know we are in the south, but last year I had over 15 breaks in the pipes in my house...water was running...lost power for an HOUR and the froze up and busted.

Winter Sux · **Posted:** Mon Nov 21, 2011 5:59 pm

I said an overnighter on the trailer TX. If it just dips into the 20's overnight it wouldn't freeze hard enough to do any damage but I agree with you about a few days on the trailer in the 20's.

John :mrgreen:

www.iFourWinns.com

Really good question about winterizng in FL

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