www.iFourWinns.com

I have had my 2000 Vista 268 GS/SX for a little over a year now, and am going to have all the annual maintenance completed on it in the next month or so. When I was talking to one of the marine mechanics they mentioned I should have my outdrive taken off and my bellows checked. However, I recently found a reciept from the previous owner indicating that he had the outdrive rebuilt in 2009 due to a torn bellows and water in the outdrive oil. When I purchased the boat a year ago I had the outdrive "serviced" which was really just changing the oil and lubricating everything. My question is, would you recommend pulling the boat and having the outdrive pulled off and the bellows checked or do I have more time? Also do I need to change the outdrive oil every year, if so I have to get the boat pulled anyway, as I keep the boat in saltwater year round. Any insight is much appreciated.

Pac Winn

_________________
Pac Winn

First Boat:
2000 Vista 268

Well, if you keep it in salt water year round.. here's what it does need yearly---

1. Anodes replaced
2. If it looks like this:

You need to have all corrosion removed and surface refinished with quality primer/ablative paint.

Here's what you have to do monthly-
Go out there with a stiff brush (plastic) and clean off anything growing. Do visual inspection.

Also if you have a stainless steel prop switch to aluminum, drive corrosion will decrease. Corrosion is the biggest killer of stern drives. You can't fix/replace what disappears into the water. The outdrive you own isn't designed for 24x7x365 salt so upkeep on it is very important or you will be replacing it. If you ever replace it, both Volvo and Mercruiser sell outdrives designed for constant salt water use at probably what you paid for your boat. so..... take good care of it.

I keep my boat in fresh water 24x7 and I have to sand it down and re-surface it every 6 months. Constant use and occasional tags with the sandy bottom wears the paint off causing surface corrosion.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

Especially if your boat is moored in salt water, you must have the drive removed each season, the bellows checked, as well as the gimble bearing, and ujoints. If you get a leak in the bellows (they normally last at least 5 seasons on an SX or Cobra) it will cost you close to a grand by the time all is said and done. In addition, the only way to grease the driveshaft splines, and the ujoints (that model probably has the greasable ujoints) is to remove the drive. If you leave it on too long it can get corroded on and then will cost way more to get it off.
I pull mine every season, takes me 15 min to get it off. I store it in the garage and do all the maintenance myself. Just costs me the cost of the gasket and 0 rings. Then I re-install it in the spring, with a new impeller and anodes.
Neglecting a sterndrive in salt water will really cost you. And I bet in the Volvo manual it says to pull it once a season to grease the splines and u-joints.
The oil should be changed yearly, because you want to see if water is getting in past the seals. I have been able to make my Cobra last 24 years by doing the maintenance every year. It has needed some seals replaced, a bearing retainer, and trim lines (cut by barnacles). Not bad for all that time, at least half of it in salt water.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

/quote]

Also if you have a stainless steel prop switch to aluminum, drive corrosion will decrease.

I keep my boat in fresh water 24x7 and I have to sand it down and re-surface it every 6 months. Constant use and occasional tags with the sandy bottom wears the paint off causing surface corrosion.[/quote]


re the comment about stainless props; absolutely not true, the props are NOT in electrical contact with the outdrive so the alloy outdrive casing doesn't "know" they are there.

I keep my boat in salt water for 6 months every year; after 7 seasons there's no corrosion on the outdrive (there is crevice corrosion on the S/S props and the S/S trim cylinder rams). I do sand the so called antifoul paint every year before reapplying it so it looks pretty on launching, but I haven't had to treat corrosion/ use anything on bare aluminium as there hasn't been any. I really do recomment the Volvo Penta Active Corrosion Protection System; my anodes last at least 3 seasons ( I change them as I feel guillty if I don't, but in reality they are only 50% gone after 3 years)

Graham

A LOT of outdrive and marine services do not recommend stainless props on aluminum outdrives used in salt water. Just like do not paint copper antiflowing paint within 1in of the outdrive. There's gotta be a reason I just can't tell you why scientifically.

Well, if you have the volvo ACPS... what happens to your drive and ones without that is totally different. I forgot VP made that. The original poster needs that.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

Thanks for all the input everyone! I have a diver clean the bottom and outdrive every 3 weeks to a month depending on the water temp and growth. I go through a set of anodes on the outdrive about once a season and go through the pencil anodes in my heat exchanger about every 9 months (as near as I can tell for owning the boat for a full year). I will go ahead and have the boat pulled and the outdrive serviced, at aminimum the oil changed. Wouldn't be so bad if I had a trailer and a big garage to work on it at.n thanks again.

Pac Winn

_________________
Pac Winn

First Boat:
2000 Vista 268

I'd imagine this 1" gap recommendation is to ensure that there's no copper containing antifoul accidentally put on the drive itself; not easy to ensure that if there's no gap.

There's a lot of stainless in the drive itself, directly in contact with the alloy that is exposed to salt water (e.g. the driveshaft(s), the driveshaft bearing carrier, various studs). If anything is going to cause corrosion it is those pieces, not stainless props. With the 2 boats I've had since 2001, both with dual stainless props, neither have shown any corrosion of the outdrive despite 6 month immersion in salt water each year. Pre-launch I am very careful to ensure the anodes are in good shape and in electrical contact with the outdrive they are there to protect.




I am lucky that the engine/ outdrive in my current boat came with the ACPS as standard. ACPS is an extra level of protection that is very easily retrofitted and not particularly expensive. The original poster has a SX drive; the same transom shield and upper unit as mine, differing only in the the lower unit. The electrode pack bolts straight onto the transom shield using existing tapped holes..I wouldn't consider not having ACPS in a boat with an outdrive that is in saltwater for 6 months, let alone one that is in salt water all year round.

Graham

They are 2 dissimilar metals, they will act like a battery. The weaker metal will be eaten up first!! The outdrive. Thats why anodes are used and grounded, some like Mercs with a neg charge put on the drive.

I have been boating for the past 12 years in salt water, the past 11 with Merc drives. My boat stays at the slip all 5 months of the season. With no real problems but you must keep up with certain things!!

Every year new anodes. B3 drives use Al not zinc because of the stainless prop (at least the new ones do). Than paint it with a non-copper hard based paint. This will do 2 things, keep growth off and protect the drive. Keep the drive down at the slip or mooring. No need to pick it up, it will put undue stress on the bellows. Every other year I have the drive pulled & serviced. In doing between 40 to 50 hours each season, it works out well for me!!

[quote="Paul IThey are 2 dissimilar metals, they will act like a battery. The weaker metal will be eaten up first!! The outdrive. Thats why anodes are used and grounded, some like Mercs with a neg charge put on the drive.
[/quote]

Paul,

On the VP DPS the closest lump of aluminium alloy to the stainless part of the props is the alumimium alloy hub; without anode protection, that's where the first corrosion should occur. That hub, which is in electrical contact with the outdrive and anodes is protected by the anodes as well (the stainless part of the prop isn't protected). I can well imagine that if maintenance was neglected and anodes were allowed to disappear ( or lose electrical contact with the outdrive) that the stainless of the prop (and bearing carrier etc) would cause rapid erosion of the aluminium alloy outdrive/ hub. Not really the fault of the use of stainless props, more the fault of the owner ! In the case of aluminium DPS props, where the blades and prop body are also isolated from the hub, outdrive and anodes, I'd have expected once there was any paint damage or erosion the prop would itself corrode away rather rapidly, being itself totally unprotected and in close proximity to a protected metal.

On my previous boat, without ACPS (which is like the Mercathode system) the anodes were around 50% worn after a 6 month season. Now, with ACPS and getting 3 seasons before the same level of erosion is reached suggests to me the outdrive is living in a much less dangerous environment as far as the potential corrosion is concerned.

Which hard paint do you use? I use a Blakes Waterline (Hempel) Volvo Grey copper free antifoul. Yes, the colour is OK but it's soft and not particularly good at giving any antifouling characteristics ! It's also horrible to apply with no chance of getting a smooth surface on any reasonable area.

Graham

Graham is the Volvo system similar the the Mercathode? It sounds as if it is. I wondered if these systems can be retrofitted to other drives that did not come with them originally. I too have a 6 month in salt water boat. At the end of the season, usually my anodes are about 1/3 gone but I replace em every year anyway.
The only place I have any significant corrosion is on the trim rams, the aluminum section at the end of the ram where the rod that connects them to the drive passes through is getting corroded on both sides. I picked up a used set of good trim rams as spares (these are not made anymore for Cobras) but I wondered why there is more corrosion there. I know Mercs have anodes on them but Cobras and Volvos do not.
I have heard the same story about stainless props causing corrosion in salt water, but of course the whole prop shaft is also stainless, right? I use an aluminum prop because we have a fair number of rocks here but I have seen early Bravo IIIs with stainless props and they all had a lot of corrosion in the section of the drive right next to the prop.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I'm in fresh water, I use zinc chromate primers and automotive gray paint. Hard as a rock.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

Graham, I use Blue Water brand. I have used Sea Hawk, Trilux & Pittit & have found that they just don't last. Too mush water flowing around the drive, it would were off in 2 mounths. I find that the Blue water last twice as long.

As normal bottom paint, I found that Ultra worked the best!! Stull would NOT grow within in a 1/2 inch of it!!

Lou,

There is a VP kit with 2 seperate electrodes for non SX type transom shields. One thing to look out for is that the potting compound VP use for the actual electrodes is c**p (cheap and brittle, almost biscuit like). Water can get in and exentually corrodes the cables; (which are not tinned !) I redid mine after 2 years with heat shrink adhesive lined crimps, plus moisture cured PU sealant. They are not coming apart and no water is getting in again !

Yes, the propshaft(s) are stainless.

I remember now, the shafts and ends of the trim rams on the SX/DPS are stainless, one of mine is showing slight crevice corrosion like the props. Weird really, big holes in the stainless props where there is very slight gap betwen the stainless and the plastic sleeve but no corrosion on the outdrive (still, I filled the holes 5 year ago with "molecular metal" and I'm still using the original 2004 props !

Interesting, I might look into that. Anything that keeps corrosion at bay is a good thing.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

The Volvo ACPS appears to be surprisingly inexpensive....

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Active-Corrosion-Protection-System/dm/store_id.366--view_id.344969

Seems like a no brainer to install while the boat is out of the water for it's annual service.

_________________
2002 Funship 214
VP 5.7 GX Si
2003 Tahoe