www.iFourWinns.com

So first of all I am happy that my first trip out on the water since putting the boat up last fall went well. She started right up and ran great. Just like the last time out in the fall.

But I now have a cosmetic issue with my steering wheel that I didn't have when I put the boat in storage. I have the sport 3 spoke steering wheel with what I assume to be plastic coated chrome accents in the center (around the hub) and three places where the spoke meets the "wheel". The chrome has pitted very bad and looks like it is going to flake off around the center. I have a few nicks and scratches throughout on the boat, but my steering wheel was perfect last year. I stored my boat in the same exact place as last winter and didn't do anything different.

Has anyone else experienced this happening? I do not have a local dealer. I'm going to try to contact one tomorrow to see if those parts can be replaced. It looks like they are held on by allen screws.

I will try to post pictures soon.

Any feedback/advice is appreciated.

Thanks

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-Eddie/2007 H200/5.0 Merc 220hp/2004 GMC Yukon

Sometimes the chrome plated plastic parts just do not hold up. I had this with the engine vent louvers, I had to replace the chrome plated plastic with stainless steel because they corrode in the salt air (Long Island Sound area) very quickly. I replaced most of the cheaper fittings on this boat (vents, cleats, steering wheel) with stainless steel. I put on a destroyer style wheel with a spinner knob and I like it much better than the sport wheels that look like they belong in a car to me. Changing the wheel is not that hard, you can pick any style you like. It is held on by allen bolts but the hub is easier to remove (if they are still using the tapered shaft with a woodruff key) by removing the center trim on the wheel, loosening but not removing the nut holding on the wheel, and then rapping the nut with a block of wood and hammer. You just hold the block of wood against the nut and rap it a few times. That breaks the grip of the tapered shaft and it should come off. There is a key that fits into a groove in the shaft and it will usually fall out when removing the hub. I greased up the hub and shaft when I replaced the wheel 3 years ago and if I ever have to remove it again (like if the steering rack fails) it will be an easy job.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Chrome plated metal and salt water are not friends, but it's cheap and looks good til past most warranty dates. My steering wheel was around $100 shipped for a really nice one. It's in my thread. It's clear coated aluminum and chrome plated plastic so it should last at least 5 years.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

Mine too looks like dodo. Is there a site that has them with that bolt patten?

If your hub has 6 tapped holes, the spacing is pretty standard ( including for Momo wheels). Victor wheels use a 5 bolt spacing, meaning the wheel needs redrilling ( and some filling/ welding) to fit the hub. The PCD of the bolt holes is the same though, so at least one lines up !

Thanks!

I did some digging and most boats use a "Standard 3/4" taper" socket.

As in this model of wheel http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ring_wheel

there's all sorts of adapters on the interwebs to fit anything to anything, don't worry.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread