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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 7:25 pm 
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So I am trying to figure out where to mount the power inverter that I will use for the inflator. Where did you mount yours.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 7:38 pm 
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Why would you mount an inverter for that, this is what I use and it does a good job

http://www.boatersoutlet.com/airhead12vinflator.aspx

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 8:45 pm 
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Yup, I second what ac guy says. We use this one, inverter not required....

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/5/SportsRec/Camping/AirPumps/PRD~0760234P/Coleman+12V+Inflator%2BDeflator.jsp?locale=en

the only thing that I could see being handy to install is another 12v outlet near the back of the boat, to plug these pumps in.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 8:56 pm 
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I have a power inverter located forward from the batts on the starboard side right next to the battery selector switch. It worked great the one time I used it to power a small microwave to cook hot dogs for the kids. Oh, I used it once also to plug in the portable fan than was out of battery power (one hot day with child asleep in front of fan). That was a real help. I use the receptacle in the rear to plug in the inflator for the tube as others have said above.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 3:44 am 
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Yeah, I mounted my inverter under the helm, so we could use the ice cream maker. Then I added 2 12V outlets near the swim deck for the inflator.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:20 am 
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I have the airhead 120v high output pump, so I wanted to mount the power inverter. The 12V version is definitely slower

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:49 am 
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Blue, just looking at the specs for that inflator, you are going to need a serious inverter!

Draws 7.1 A / 917 W
Volume: 480 L/minute

So definately no less than a 1000w continuous service inverter (I would go for no less than 1200w-1500w continuous service, as the electric motor will draw more than the 917w when starting, which could overload the inverter).
In that case, you will want it mounted near the stern, to save in the cost of cables (probably around 2 gauge for that size) and most of these larger inverters are recommended to be within 5' or so of the battery. Do you have dual batteries? 1000w is quite the draw on the system.....

This is a pretty expensive installation, just to save a few seconds of inflating water toys.... (inverter at about $200.00, power cables and fuse @ about $50) but hey, it's your money!

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 6:17 am 
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Location: Northshore Boston & 1000 Islands
We have a 1000W inverter installed inside of storage compartment under the side rear seat (Behind cockpit and sink) We use 110V pump for all tubes since they are much stronger and faster to inflate. Also we use it for small hand tools as well as small shop vac and comes very handy….

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 8:04 am 
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chrisvs wrote:
Blue, just looking at the specs for that inflator, you are going to need a serious inverter!

Draws 7.1 A / 917 W
Volume: 480 L/minute

So definately no less than a 1000w continuous service inverter (I would go for no less than 1200w-1500w continuous service, as the electric motor will draw more than the 917w when starting, which could overload the inverter).
In that case, you will want it mounted near the stern, to save in the cost of cables (probably around 2 gauge for that size) and most of these larger inverters are recommended to be within 5' or so of the battery. Do you have dual batteries? 1000w is quite the draw on the system.....

This is a pretty expensive installation, just to save a few seconds of inflating water toys.... (inverter at about $200.00, power cables and fuse @ about $50) but hey, it's your money!

I have dual batteries, so I was thinking of mounting it in one of the compartments with the batteries. I was looking at the 1000W version that Sushi has.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 8:53 am 
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I carry around one of those pocket sized 400w inverters in a storage compartment. Use it mainly to run christmas lights for the christmas parade but it's been used to charge cell phones and even ran an electric drill when my battery one died.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:28 am 
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Sounds like you have things sorted then Blue. Just one other note that I had noticed on the xantex site, they mention not mounting the inverter above the batteries due to off gassing from the battery corroding the inverter. I am not sure how large that compartment is, but just something I had noticed while looking up stuff.

If you go to xantex's website, you can view the install manuals for their product. Could be worth a look, to help you while you are in the planning stages.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:51 pm 
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Just an FYI. Most inverters are not ignition & water proof, so be careful were you mount them.

This may already be understood, but load factors need to be taken into account. For every 10w at 120 A.C., you will need 90w of 12V D.C. power, roughly. Thats a lot of D.C. amps! 7.5A in all, roughly. Cable size and distance need to be factored too.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 3:16 pm 
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Paul I. wrote:
Just an FYI. Most inverters are not ignition & water proof, so be careful were you mount them.

This may already be understood, but load factors need to be taken into account. For every 10w at 120 A.C., you will need 90w of 12V D.C. power, roughly. Thats a lot of D.C. amps! 7.5A in all, roughly. Cable size and distance need to be factored too.


I think you confused the w with the A....

Ohms Law-
I=P/E =>
1000W/120V AC= 8.3A AC for your inflator However....
1000W/12V DC= 83A draw on the battery... thats about what one of those starting booster/chargers puts out to jump start to a dead car!

Even a 400W inverter could pull about 33A (mine's on a 25A fuse).

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 4:15 pm 
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Paul I. wrote:
Just an FYI. Most inverters are not ignition & water proof, so be careful were you mount them.

This may already be understood, but load factors need to be taken into account. For every 10w at 120 A.C., you will need 90w of 12V D.C. power, roughly. Thats a lot of D.C. amps! 7.5A in all, roughly. Cable size and distance need to be factored too.

I figure a marine power inverter should be ignition and waterproof, but I will verify that before I purchase one.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:03 am 
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Walt wrote:
Paul I. wrote:
Just an FYI. Most inverters are not ignition & water proof, so be careful were you mount them.

This may already be understood, but load factors need to be taken into account. For every 10w at 120 A.C., you will need 90w of 12V D.C. power, roughly. Thats a lot of D.C. amps! 7.5A in all, roughly. Cable size and distance need to be factored too.


I think you confused the w with the A....

Ohms Law-
I=P/E =>
1000W/120V AC= 8.3A AC for your inflator However....
1000W/12V DC= 83A draw on the battery... thats about what one of those starting booster/chargers puts out to jump start to a dead car!

Even a 400W inverter could pull about 33A (mine's on a 25A fuse).


Maybe may math is wrong? Could be? But if your 400W inverter is pulling 33 amps that must be in D.C. That is still a fair load. 400 watts in A.C. 120V is about 4 amps. Remember too, that the inverter itself is using power.

This is from Xantrex, Coffee Pot (600 W) 5A A.C. uses 26 A of D.C.
http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Power- ... aper02.pdf


Last edited by Paul I. on Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:22 am, edited 2 times in total.

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