www.iFourWinns.com

I know many of you have installed a Remote Trim Switch.

My question is this: Has anyone wired a Remote Trim Switch so that they can still tilt the engine with the Main Battery Switch turned off? I like to turn off the battery switch before climbing out of the boat, but still would like to be able to adjust the engine tilt from the transom.

It would seem that I would need to re-wire the trim motor solenoids directly to one of the batteries, along with the switch. Has anyone done this?

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

It sounds like a bad idea to me. My thought being if there is ever a fire on my boat, I turn off the battery switch and EVERYTHING is dead (bilge and mercathode too). To each there own, but I have left the battery on for more than a month without charging, and not had issues starting. I have my trim switch mod'd to a key FOB so I don't even need to uncover the boat.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Both my auto bilge pump and VP active Corrosion Protection system (the equiv to Mercathode) are permanently connected to the batteries ( via the factory fitted diode circuit for the bilge pump, so they both "contribute" power). Never, ever a slightly flat battery issue in over 7 years ( original batteries) and sometimes it's been 5 weeks + between uses of the boat; sad, I know !).

I thought Mercury recommended the Mercathode system be kept permanently "live", especially with a Bravo 3 drive ?

All of my connections are on the "load" side of the battery switch. I don't sweat the mercathode or bilge pump, as my boat rarely spends more than 8 hrs a weekend in the water. The rest is in the driveway. Then again, the batteries are only off if I am working on them, the alt, or something else relevant.

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Some things are wired right to the battery. But I would keep it down to a minimum.

I don't know this for sure, but its very likely the trim motors are already wired to the batteries, fed direct or from the starter.

The control side power of the trim silenoids are wired through the battery switch, like the starter itself doesn't run through the batt switch, but dash power to control it does.

An easy check with a test light.

_________________
Jeff

'14 Cruisers 380 Express "Simon Sez"
Merc 8.2 Mag MPI 380
DTS B3X, (x2) Axius Premier


(SOLD)
'08 V318
Merc 350 Mag MPI 300
DTS Seacore, B3 (x2)

On my Sundowner, the connection to the starter solenoid from the battery is via the battery selector switch. Various circuits are connected to that terminal on the solenoid.

Walt,


Could you elaborate on the Key FOB that you used for that mod?

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2005 Four Winns Funship 214 VP 5.7/Duo Prop

I did it to toggle the lights on at night for 30 sec as I approach the boat, and had an aux remaining. See "Walt's Mod's" for more details.....

Wireless remote trim/tilt-
Second mod is a remote to run the drive up. As posted previously, I installed a keyless remote system to toggle the lights. This system also had an aux contact set available as well. The design being to roll up the car windows remotely. I simply took that contact and wired it to the trim/tilt up circuit (with only one aux I could only go one way!). Though not quite as functional as the transom mounted switches, It will still be very useful. I'm sure if I shop around, I could find one to give me more functions, but for $100 and some ingenuity, I'm not complaining.

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Yes, Everything in my boat goes through the Battery Switch, including the starter. I don't see an automatic bilge pump switch coming off the battery either, but I'll look into that. I trailer so I am not too worried about that anyway.

My decision will be to leave the trim pump wired through the switch, and add the transom control buttons. I don't want to be worried about it back-feeding power from one battery to the other if I change the wiring.

Thank you for your posts.

Ray

_________________

"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings